348 Crank Angle Sensor Resistance

Did you compare the old and new sensor lengths before fitment? If a shim was fitted to one crank sensor, it doesn't mean it's suitable for another sensor. Use non-magnetic feeler gauges to get the right gap. It's important to match the gaps on the left and right bank sensors.

I've heard no bad reports about Kia Bosch sensors. Or did you find an even cheaper substitute for a Kia sensor?

How sure are you that the new injectors are compatible and balanced?

Did you do a battery reset after the injector replacement?

Were there any fault codes generated?

 

Did you compare the old and new sensor lengths before fitment?
I did, they seemed the same length by eye, I didn't bust out my digital caliper though.
If a shim was fitted to one crank sensor, it doesn't mean it's suitable for another sensor.

Use non-magnetic feeler gauges to get the right gap. It's important to match the gaps on the left and right bank sensors.

I've heard no bad reports about Kia Bosch sensors. Or did you find an even cheaper substitute for a Kia sensor?
I didnt buy an amazon or ebay china cheapo version. I have read you cannot buy these from kia any longer though, I got mine from O'Reillys auto parts due to the speed in which I could have them in my hands. They were $30 each. I will try to get oem kia ones if the information i read here on ferrari chat was inaccurate about kia discontinuing them with no superseding number.

How sure are you that the new injectors are compatible and balanced?
I dont, other people have reported using the same part number injectors in the 348 without issue so I bought some brand new ones (except for 3 that were opened prior to me buying them, which i will beswapping out for new still sealed injectors tomorrow, Saturday) and installed them.

Did you do a battery reset after the injector replacement?
Didn't know I had to, I have not read that was required anywhere when doing research for suitable injectors to use as replacements or the replacement procedure. By battery reset I assume you mean unplug the battery for 30 seconds and hook it back up?

Were there any fault codes generated?

The check engine lights go off so I assumed no code were present but I dont know nor do I know how to check for codes yet. I will research it.

 

I don’t know if it’s part of the procedure, but if you’re messing with the fuel system, I thought it might be a good idea to reset the fuel management system baselines.

Or longer and let the car idle (if possible) for 10 minutes with AC and things other things turned off. Start with a cold engine. I think the full procedure is written somewhere.

Not all codes put on the CELs. Check before resetting the battery.

 

I checked with kia and they did say that the crank sensor we use in place of the Ferrari one (part number 0K2A6-18891) is no longer available.

Installed new fuel filters today, swapped out 3 brand new still sealed injectors with the other ones that were previously opened.

The crank sensor gap on both sensors was bigger than 0.88mm thats as high of a feel gauge I had. I removed the 1 and only shim on each sensor and that dropped the gap to 0.53mm. Which is supposed to be within spec. Car does the same exact thing as before. Autozone sent me the wrong pumps today so the correct ones (I hope) are coming Wednesday or Thursday. Pretty bummed out, I wanted this car fixed today. Im going to check into an in line fuel pressure gauge and a scope to check the crank sensor output.

 

Just in case the pump diameter is the issue - the original fuel pumps had 60 mm diameter (which are NLA, using rubber sleeves 126809) and that the currently offered equivalent pumps are 53 mm diameter for which you need thicker rubber sleeves, Ferrari p/n 144232.

 

Autozone also carries these crank sensors under part number su4259. An oem kia one came in the duralst box for one of the two I ordered. This crank sensor is for a 98-01 kia sophia or 00-02 spectra

 

Mondial T with 3.4 engine, see below from WSM Motronic 2.7 check list No. 13
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It is clear that ECU expects a resistance as per the table. Currently I am checking a problematic operation of my engine since I changed precautionary almost all sensors (except phase sensor) and I have a problemating running on 1-4 on idle and at low rpm, with black shooted plugs with an intermittent CEL 1-4 and code 1211. I monitor O2 sensor voltage using my breakbox and I see that sensor's voltage oscillate between 200 mV to 800 mV and then is "freezing" around 800 mV for a while and then I have a CEL 1211, after a few seconds the sensor starts to oscillate again and the CEL goes off. Even exhaust gas temperature right side (problematic) is around 100 deg Celsius while left side (works fine) has about 180 deg Celsius. I suspect that cooler exhaust gas affecting O2 sensor's effectiveness even heater works fine. So I checked TDC sensor with oscilloscope and I didn't like the wave form (seems very weak) but I am not that experienced using an oscilloscope. So, it seems that the sensor with higher resistance may foul the ECU and makes a mesh overall... I have tried everything (except phase sensor since I don't have a spare) coils, ECU, MAFs. I will check also the new Bosch module but it's unlike to be defective. O2 sensor is a new Bosch with the correct part number.

 

Did you check the signal from the TDC sensor on the good side to compare it with the suspected weak signal on the "bad" side?

 

Both sensors are new and same type, same resistance at 860 Ohms. They generate the same week garbled signal. Tomorrow I will try to take photo from oscilloscope screen. Bank 5-8 works fine. The problem now is at 1-4 only. To be honest I am not sure how these sensors interact each other and with ECUs and if this is my only problem. A few months ago accidentally was disconnected one cylindrical connector above gear box which was sending a signal from phase sensor to ECU 5-8. The symptom was very poor performance from 5-8, black shooted plugs, and uneven operation while 1-4 was fine (then I have the old cranck sensors). Tomorrow I expect some Magneti Marreli sensors at 550 Ohms. Checking and reverting....

 

The 860 ohms sensors are most likely your problem since the ECU expects to see 540 ohms.

Do post the signal picture tomorrow.

 

Check condition of the pins, in the barrel connectors, for both of the fuel injector harnesses. They are located underneath the backside of the plenum. You may even want to try swapping the fuel injector, harnesses from side to side to see if your problem jumps to the other bank.

 

I am using KIA crank sensors (CPS) reading 895 Ohm and I have no issues at all. And I have not heard that any of the many users of the KIA sensors has issues with them.

The engine ECU is actually looking at the electric signal from the CPS, not at its resistance. And, to be more precise, looking at the frequency of the generated waveform which looks like this:
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Detail of the CPS signal waveform in relation to the toothed wheel on the crankshaft:
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Yes, but if there is a pull up or pull down resistor with a specific value, the resistance of the sensor may reduce the amplitude of the signal to the point where it is borderline.

That is why we need to see the signal when he posted it.

 

I tried my old TDC sensors (540 ohms), they. gave a different magnitude on the pulse. The wav form is ok, but unfortunately I have only the photos wich are focused. I got also the complete wave form exactly as per WSM but still I am struggling to adjust properly my oscilloscope... The first one is with 550 Ohms, the pulse is stronger, the second one is the 860 homs sensor, the pulse is clear but more weak. Unfortunately my old sensors are not reliable any more. Tried to repair their wires, they worked but I had a code 4114, so I took it off. All other signals and pulses are good but CEL 1211 still come up intermittent... So, I am not sure any more that I have an electric/ electronic problem. Finally I will check the FPR, I have black shooted plugs, very high HC on bank 1-4 (more than 6-7K) and obviously the 1-4 running VERY rich. I am attaching also just FYI photos from the other diagnostic pulses. The last two are from the phase sensor in two different views, the form could be a little better, maybe the rotating ring is magnetized, I don't know...
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You should be able to get a square wave to display correctly if you turn the trim pot at the side of the probe head, while connected to a square wave source, until the waveform is shown as really square. The square wave for this calibration is often provided by the oscilloscope. See if there is a metal pin somewhere on the scope with a square wave symbol. Also, when reading a square waveform, you should set your oscilloscope to DC. Your pictures appear to show AC setting.

Quite possible that you have a leaking FPR for the 1-4 bank. The leak is often into the vacuum port/hose from where it is sucked into the intake plenum providing extra fuel for the bank.

 

I made a mistake, the trim pot should be at the side of the probe's cable connector to the oscilloscope.

 

Mystery solved! A defective FPR is the cause of my nightmare of the last days... My FPR, even is delivering at the correct pressure of 3.8 Bar, is leaking a lot from the vacuum side! Applying some depression (about 400mg Hg) with a hand pump the leakage became huge. So huge that I am thinking that it would be better to change the oils due to possible contamination by gasoline...
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Beyond this, I noticed that all this mesh of wires and relays in the trunk of Mondial T shall be addressed aiming to a better reliability. I realized that relays harness warm-up a lot during operation, the left harness under the fuel pump relay reaches 60 deg. Celsius (!), that means connectors are either loose or oxidized wil all expected consequences. In any case I will rebuilt all these wiring mesh in a much more professional setup. I will upload photos when done.

 

While waiting for new FPR I opened up the defective one for check. The photos are self understood. The moral of the story is that that aged diaphragm it's over. Similarly should be the other FPR ready to fail anytime, so it would be prudent both FPR to be replaced in those 30+ years old cars.
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It is certainly a good idea to make sure all relay pins, and their sockets are clean (free of oxidisation). Same applies to the fuses. However, it is normal that the fuel pump and the injection relays get somewhat warmer for two reasons: 1) they continuously carry fairly large current and 2) they have 65 Ohm coils (if original) = 2.6 W heaters.