Some questions: First, is there a guide that gives step-by-step instructions on this? If so, where can I get it. I see that Jack Russell Racing has a link to the kit, which is good....I will be purchasing it. What will I need in addition to this? I am pretty mechanically enclined, and happen to have a friend who is a Certified Ford GT Tech. He is very excited about helping me (doing most of the work) with this, as he sees it as an opportunity to learn about the Ferrari. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated, as I couldn't justify 6K for something that I may be able to do myself. I have alot of faults, but non-appreciation isn't one of them.
This page will point you to the engine out process: http://webpages.charter.net/aircover/348/1994Ferrari348Spider.html It's all pretty straight forward for the 30k service: drain the fluids, pull the engine, remove the timing belt, alt belt, ac belt, replace the water pump, replace the tensioners, replace all hoses, replace the belts, re-install the engine and refill the fluids (changing filters, of course). And if you want to do it "right" you'll adjust the valves/shims.
thanks No Doubt. I registered and downloaded the original service manual. This should be fun!! Any other advice is welcome!
John I pland to do mine this weekend or next. I just got my service kit today. I also got a rebuilt water pump wich I will install at the same time. I am a little aprehensive about doing this, but know it isnt beyond my abilities. I plan to use my 4 post lift to aid in removing the engine.
wait ... someone is gonna jump in right about now and start talking about timing-wheels ..... oh no ...... haha.
Only if your interested in doing the work to the standard set by Ferrari, and your after optimum performance. Personally, if I were out looking to buy a 348, or any Ferrari for that matter, and the owner did a DIY service and didnt degree wheel the motor, I would ask the cost of a full service be deducted from the price. If I bring my airplane in for an annual inspection, I want ALL of it done, not some half assed job. I suppose a compression test or leakdown test would be to hard to accomplish too? Seriously, I cant understand owning any Ferrari, replacing belts, and skimping around doing it according to the service manual. Your already saving a ton of labor cost, why try to skimp? Oh well, maybe you guys should try changing the belts in the car while your at it, save even more time. Its a high performance engine that requires high performance maintainance, not a Honda you throw a belt on on a saturday afternoon by lining up the marks and zipping off. Do you wonder why they make adjustable timing pulleys for Hondas? To get better performance, because the factory marks are not that accurate. I am presently after a set of adjustable cam pulleys for the 308, so I can adjust valve timing in one degree increments. Yes, one degree can make quite a difference, and NO, the marks on the cams you use to align the timing are only reference marks, read the service manuals. Yes, the engine will run "okay", but it will only ever be "about right", never perfect. You want it right, put a degree wheel on it and you will see. Also, once you have a wheel on it, you can ask about alternative valve timing, such as euro spec, etc, and dial it in perfectly, and your WILL feel the difference, and HEAR the difference. No way to do THAT without a wheel.
Artvonne, Why do I feel like my dad just thrashed me?? For the record: I plan on doing everything, not just "half-assed" stuff. That is why I started this thread, I want to get all of the input I can, to ensure that I do everything possible. Like I have been told, the hardest part is getting the engine out. If I am going to go through all of that trouble, then I might as well do EVERYTHING while it is out. I downloaded that shop manual, is that all I am going to need? Or is there a specific step-by-step instruction for this particular service?
Go for it! I think it is great you are doing it yourself and not doing a half assed job. Cool thing is you will come away from it knowing more than I bet 95% of 348 owners and if you make a mistake (which dealers can do) at least you didn't pay someone else to do it. Anyhow good luck and keep us informed on how it goes... would love pics too.
When you do the valve adjustments, make sure that you measure each and every shim with a micrometer. Make yourself a chart and write down the measurements. The reason you are mic-ing each shim is because they all measure different. The shims have the specs printed on the back, but they are not accurate. For example let's say you need a shim with the thickness of 3.75, then when you mic it the actual measurement could be 3.748 or 3.752. Those 1/1000th's can make your valve adjustment too tight or too loose. It seems to me that when they stamp the shims they just round up or down to the nearest 1/100th and call it a day. Now if the only thing you are shooting for is to land somewhere in between the tollerances, then you won't really care if the shims are exact. But if you are trying to get all the clearances set as exact and close as possible that is were this becomes important.
I didnt mean to thrash anyone I was simply responding to the post regarding the use of a timing wheel, in which the poster was eluding to the idea that it was unnecessary, to which I humbly disagree. As to what needs to be done, I always assume all maintainence guidelines are for the minimum standard, so anything over and above that in both time interval and depth is going to gain you better reliability. I have always approached sports car maintainence as I would aircraft, in that once a year the motor and underside should be washed down as clean as reasonable with safety solvent, and everything gone over making sure no hidden issues will bite back, like a leaky hose for example. In an engine out service (or in as in a 3X8) I would do all of the regular service things, but try to clean everything I could reach as clean as possible. Repair anything that looks the slightest bit questionable, and replace any bolts or clamps that look the slightest questionable. You should try to replace as much hose as reasonably possible. Not the oil lines but the coolant hoses, vacuum lines etc, stuff made of rubber. The water pump should probably be at least rebuilt, they just spin up so fast on these cars thier life time is rather short. Replace as many seals as you can get to within reason, and finish up by degreeing in your camshafts with a degree wheel, as per the service manual. If the alternator or starter would be a big hassle to get to later, maybe think of having it overhauled while the car is down. If you know a good electrical guy he could at least look them over. I would at least consider a new starter solenoid, and a new brush/regulator set for the alternator. That stuff always seems to fail at the worst possible place. Basically, try to make the car as reliable as it was when new, and you will have a lot of confidence when you go to drive it, knowing you should be pretty well covered. If the dealer actually spent a good couple of days degreasing the whole motor and engine compartment so the car came back looking awesome, then its probably worth the money they sometimes want. Because its a hell of a lot of work to clean up a greasy old car. And a Ferrari just shouldnt ever be greasy.
