348 Door Connector - AMP | FerrariChat

348 Door Connector - AMP

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by reado10, Jun 15, 2011.

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  1. reado10

    reado10 Rookie

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    #1 reado10, Jun 15, 2011
    Hi All, does anybody know if you can still buy the door part (plug) of the AMP connector fitted to the 348 door wiring loom? I would like to do some preventative work but am unable to find much info on it. Has anybody substituted this connector with a different plug / socket of the correct diameter? Any info greatly received.

    Thanks

    Paul
     
  2. mwr4440

    mwr4440 Five Time F1 World Champ
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    #2 mwr4440, Jun 15, 2011
    AMP still makes LOTS of connectors. Some for over 30+ years. Can you post a pic?
     
  3. reado10

    reado10 Rookie

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    #3 reado10, Jun 15, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thanks for the reply. Here is a pic.

    I believe the AMP part number is 927380-1. It isn't showing any distributors with stock which I guess means it may be unavailable...

    Paul
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  4. BT

    BT F1 World Champ
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    #4 BT, Jun 15, 2011
    Most times the AMP connector is not the problem in the 348 door, it is the wires that are connected to it breaking from flexing too many times. I guess if you got a new AMP connecotr you might be able to cut the wires and crimp the old wires to a new connector buying you about 10 years or so. Is that the plan? Back in the day I had Tim Stanford just ditch the AMP connector and thru wire the door with some more modern and durable wire. YMMV!
    :)
    BT
     
  5. mwr4440

    mwr4440 Five Time F1 World Champ
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    #5 mwr4440, Jun 15, 2011
    I'll do some snooping.

    AND I do concur with BT above.
     
  6. reado10

    reado10 Rookie

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    #6 reado10, Jun 15, 2011
    Thanks again for the replies. It seems somebody has made some poor repairs to it before from snapped wires, so I plan on repairing/replacing the wires in the door and terminating them to a new plug. I have debated rewiring straight through but would rather tackle that as a more long term winter project, if that makes any sense at all! What may be possible is reusing the plastic receptacle but obtaining new pins for it. The problem is, there seems to be many different pins for the connector in terms of size and the measurements are so small, I have no real way of telling!

    Paul
     
  7. Jeff Pintler

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    #7 Jeff Pintler, Jun 17, 2011
    There was a recent post in the 348/355 section about this! Digikey has the pins, and the tool for not very much money. The connector design is good enough but there is cable flexing that causes the wire to break next to the pin. Probably some heat shrink on each wire will help alot. Replaced just the broken pins on mine 8 years ago and they still work. FWIW.


    Jeff Pintler
    89 348, 86tr, 99 360 3-pedal
     
  8. mwr4440

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    #8 mwr4440, Jun 17, 2011
    Paul,

    Give Dave Helms a shout:

    http://www.scuderiarampanteinnovations.com/
     
  9. reado10

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    #9 reado10, Jun 18, 2011
    Thanks all for your replies. I will follow up your leads (excuse the pun..) and report back!

    Paul
     
  10. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

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    #10 davehelms, Jun 18, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I am trying to help Bill in CA get his sorted out now on his car.

    I have a stack of 348 doors in the barn and will try test fitting these this weekend, at least one should have the plug intact. If they work I have plenty on hand in both the light and heavy gauge wire applications as they were one of my early test connectors for the Gold Kit I chose not to use. As Jeff suggested, heat shrink tubing on the bundle, acting as a strain relief helps these live a long life and prevents the wires breaking at the pin crimp.

    Chas, Unplug your drivers door plug and photo that. You might want to consider this DIY project before problems are experienced. Bill needing them and then looking at your plug.... it has not been a priority project but... a project none the less.
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  11. Ricambi America

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    #11 Ricambi America, Jun 18, 2011
    I re-wired my doors with crimps and shrink tube. Let me tell you, it is a horrible job. Your head will be stuck in the filthy wheel well for several hours and you'll curse the day Ferrari (or AMP) chose those silly pins. BUT, with new wiring the door controls will work reliably for a long long time.
     
  12. chas-3

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    #12 chas-3, Jun 20, 2011
    Ugh! I'll add it too the list.
     
  13. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

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    #13 davehelms, Jun 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    You can do the test install with these contacts if you want, replacing a single pin is all I need to know it fits. Not a single plug intact on the doors in the barn, IMSA is gutted with no wires and no 48's on the schedule soon. Your call...
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  14. chas-3

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    #14 chas-3, Jun 20, 2011
    Certainly willing to help out Dave. I'll be giving you a call to discuss.
     
  15. marbro

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    #15 marbro, Jun 21, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Here you go.
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  16. mj_duell

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    #16 mj_duell, Jun 21, 2011
    Dave,
    I have had this issue too. It's not so much the corrosion as its the bad seal on the connector and its location as well as wire pulling/bending as the door opens and closes. Gold pins are a start, but what is needed is a better connector design solution. Just my .02

    --Mike
     
  17. Ricambi America

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    #17 Ricambi America, Jun 21, 2011
    ^ 100% on Mike's comment. It's not the connection (at least not yet!) it is the bending and pulling of the accordion that breaks the pins free.
     
  18. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

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    #18 davehelms, Jun 21, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2011
    I have no disagreement with your statement what so ever. I have found that using the shrink tube as Jeff suggested earlier, eliminates the breakage issues almost in an entirety thus making the corrosion issues the next topic to deal with. In my experiences (based on many dozens of the same models and repairs), the corrosion leads to high resistance across the heavy wire terminals thus damaging the plug beyond any hope of reuse when the plastic melts. This is an area where any components used or repair techniques done, short of soldering the wires to the terminals will work just fine.

    Frankly, if they last 10 years between repairs..... what the heck, who cares, any connector will do just fine and I am happy to tip my hat to those with the answers. I just happened to look and see I already had connectors on hand from another effort I thought might better the assembly. Its all good.
     
  19. chas-3

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    #19 chas-3, Jun 22, 2011
    Dave, I was thinking about driving the 348 over to the shop on Friday but it looks like that will not be necessary. Oh well . . . :)
     
  20. davehelms

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    #20 davehelms, Jun 22, 2011
    Come on over, take a corner and play with this for a bit. Their is nothing wrong with the direction others take with this system but I have my own method of doing things.... that wont change. Too many observations are based on a sample group of one or two, that doesnt tell the whole story but it is all good so long as they are made to work.
     
  21. chas-3

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    #21 chas-3, Jun 22, 2011
    See you Friday morning!
     
  22. reado10

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    #22 reado10, Jun 30, 2011
    Just to update you guys, at this stage I took the easy option. I removed the broken pins / wires, replaced the damaged wiring and refitted with new pins. This has resolved the issue for now, but I will be looking to re-visit this in the winter. After a lot of research, it seems like the AMP connector itself is not available anymore, and certainly not without massive minimum order quantities being fulfilled, so I will be looking at alternative connectors as I still want to retain the ability to remove the door / loom at any point.

    Thanks for your advice and help.

    Paul
     
  23. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    #23 yelcab, Jun 30, 2011
    where did you get the pins without a large minimum order?
     
  24. reado10

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    #24 reado10, Jun 30, 2011
    I was lucky enough to find a kind forum member that sent me some they had left over from a while ago, although reading the posts since, it seems like Dave Helms on here may have some that should fit, and if you look at this link:

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46232&highlight=digikey&page=2

    I think you can see the part numbers on the packets, available from places like Digikey for you guys in the US and Farnell or RS in the UK. They don't require large minimum orders IIRC. Hope some of this is helpful.


    Paul
     
  25. plugzit

    plugzit F1 Veteran
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    #25 plugzit, Jun 30, 2011
    I found them at a local electronics store and the tool as well.
     
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