348 engine out major

The 19mm nuts holding the secondary air injection rails to the fittings in the head didn't wanna budge. So I sprayed them with some WD40 and let them sit for a while.

Went back later and unscrewed the nuts. Some of them were still a bit stubborn, but they eventually all came loose.
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With the nuts all unscrewed I disconnected the air injection rails from the fittings.

You cn see one of the just was so stubborn it unscrewed the fitting with it. be sure to use PLENTY of penetrant when you do this, and maybe even let it sit over night.
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Then on to the 19mm air rail fittings for removal. I used a closed end box wrench for this. More grabbing area.
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Here we have the engine sans headers.. You'll notice I reattached the oil filter. It's on there only finger tight. I did it just to try and keep something from getting into the filter fitting. Don't know that I really need to do that, but I did.
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What say I pull the gear box off.

Yeah?

Let's do it!

 

To remove the gearbox the half shafts will need to be removed.

Using a big screwdriver I stick it into one of the slots in the rotor. I do this to lock the axle so when I'm loosening the bolts it doesn't move.
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Then I insert an allen wrench into the allen bolt. I would have used a allen socket, but I could find the one I needed so I just used the allen wrench. I made sure the hole was clean so I could get it all the way in. If the allen key wrench isn't all the way in you risk stripping the bolt.

I also fitted the handle of my floor jack to the end of the allen wrench, as a cheater bar. The allen bolts on this car get put on KING KONG tight.

With the axle locked in place, a double check of the allen wrench, then I apply the pressure a break the cv joint bolts loose.
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For those wondering, I don't need to use anything to hold the nut still. As you can see in this picture, the end of the nut gets wedged against the lip on the back of the connecting flange. This did the job just fine of holding the nut, and I have yet to strip a nut doing it this way. The nut's and bolts Ferrari used for this are really strong.
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Now even though the nuts will hold still just fine for breaking the bolts loose, they do not stay in place. As you are backing the bolt out it will start to push the nut off the lip.

So what I do is press it against the back of the flange with my finger, while I turn the bolt with the other hand. Then I remove the bolt.

Are are also spacers that you will need to save. After I take the bolts out I screw the nuts back on the ends to keep the spacers with the bolts they cam off with.

This is the same procedure I use for removing the cv joints from the wheel bearing hub.
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After I have the cv joints disconnected from the gearbox, and the hub, I slide the axles out between the arms, towards where the radiators would be.
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The rear sway bar needs to come off.

I removed the nuts holding the 2 bushing brackets to the subframe, and took the brackets off.
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Then I remove the nuts holding it to the sway bar end link.
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Over to the other side, remove that nut, and then I used a long screw driver to pry it off the end link.

So Stooge of me.
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With the sway bar removed it was on to the oil line.

I removed the nuts for the brackets attaching the oil line to the right side of the gear box.
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Now the four 17mm nuts holding the gearbox to the engine get unscrewed. 2 on the top left, and 2 on the top right. Just under the oil filter, where the O2 sensor connectors where.
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Then the nuts on either side of the block, under where the headers would normally be.
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Now the 2 bolts on the bottom get removed.

Ignore the bolt you see in the middle. The one missing a nut. The 2 bolts you are removing are on other side of that. I accidentally removed the nut from it.
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That selector for the shift cables gets removed too. The allen bolt gets removed and the selector gets slid off the shaft.
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Next the clutch gets removed from the gear box. Since I've already posted a DIY on this here is the link for it. I jumped to the second page because I already have this thing torn down. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/296274-348-clutch-removal-2.html The reason the clutch needs to come off is to pull the propeller shaft out of the crank. You'll see in a moment.

 

With the clutch removed next the rear support bracket gets taken off the subframe. This allows me to roll the gearbox off the back of the engine.

Take off the 4 nuts, 2 on each side, and remove the bracket. You'll need a long socket to get in there.
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Now the propeller shaft gets pulled out of the back of the crank.
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The last time I pulled the gearbox I removed the big bolt runner throughout the gearbox mount. But when went to roll the tranny out I had to lift the car up a little more, to get it to clerar.

So this time I just unbolted it from the subframe. But before I took the bolts out I supported it from the bottom with the floor jack.
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Now with the gearbox supported I removed the four bolts holding it to the subframe.
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I used a chisel to wedge between the gearbox, and the engine block, to pry it loose. I also grabbed hold of the gearbox case and tried wiggling it to help created some space, to wedge the chisel in there. Once you get it started in comes off pretty easy.
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VIOLA!

With the gearbox disconnected from the engine, it just rolls right out.
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