Then using a small sledge hammer I tapped it into the hole. I did NOT just smack it with the sledge. I tapped it all the way in, being careful not to let the bearing get cockeyed. The reason I used the sledge was because it had a much bigger face that a regular hammer. Also because it's heavier and I don't have to exert as much force, I let the weight of the sledge do the work. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Before reinstalling the top sprocket I slid the bottom one off to clean it up a little. The other reason is because you will need to feed the chain onto the top and bottom sprocket before the top pulley sprocket gets pressed back into the bearing. You will notice that the sprocket, at the front, for the oil pump is single row, and the sprockets for the cam belt pulley, and the rear, are double row. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I had to learn the hard way that it was better to have the top sprocket off, and to install the timing chain on BEFORE I pressed it into the bearing. There is not enough room to feed the double row chain over the teeth of both sprockets, if the top sprocket is already installed. So I had to pull it back out. Then I slid the bottom sprocket off the crack shaft a little bit. Fed the chain to the bottom and top sprockets. THEN I reinstalled the pulley sprocket into the block/bearing. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This time I used a regular hammer to tap on the tip of the shaft to "press" it in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here we have the old "tore up from the floor up" tensioner pad, vs the new pad for a lil' side by side comparison. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
And now I'll install the new tensioner pad. First plastic pin gets inserted into the back of the barrel of the pad. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Then the spring gets inserted. Making sure the spring fits with the plastic pin inside the bottom of the spring. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I put the little lock fitting on like so. With the keyway facing the barrel of the tensioner. That keyway is so that the dowel can run between it. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I then pressed the fitting into the tensioner, over the dowel, and as I pressed I twisted it so that is went all the way in, and locked in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ernie, this is a great thread. I can't say thanks enough for taking the time to post such detailed pics and info.
With the spring in place I slid the pad into the housing of the tensioner. Sorry I don't have any pics of this but, it's pretty self explanatory. What I do have is a pic of how the the shim should be facing when it gets installed. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Then insert the tensioner housing back into the hole in the block, feed the chain over it, and bolt it down. I don't have a pic of this but, when you slid the shaft of the pad, into the housing, the part of the pad that is offset goes on so it's closets to the block. If you look back at the pics I posted of the side-by-side you'll see what I'm talking about. Anyway that offset goes towards the block. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ernie, this thread is money (as are all of your threads). This should be nominated thread of the month and thread of the year, and quite frankly one of FChat's all time greatest threads. The time that Ernie spends explaining in great detail is priceless, and he does it on his time without a penny of compensation.
Unreal Ernie. What would this kind of "major" cost in a shop? How many hours? How much for parts/materials?
I was thinking this should be called "rebuild" and not "major". Once again, big thanks for taking the time to post this. Much appreciated!
Thanks again guys. I'll try to answer some of the questions. How long? I have WAY more hours into this than it would take me had I not been documenting everything, and then posting it. No joke like 3-4 times the amount of time had I just been wrenching on it nose to the grind stone. What did the parts cost? I haven't totaled it up but with everything I think its a good guess I'm over $2500. What would it cost and a shop, or dare I even say …………dealer? I don't even wanna think about it. Some insane price I'm sure. I am as deep into this thing as you can get short of a complete rebuild. Crazy, money I tell you, crazy money had it gone to a shop/dealer.
Now it's time to change the tensioner for the oil pump chain. Don't be fooled by this little screw on the tensioner, or on the other end for that matter. It will NOT help you remove tension from the pad. It is actually used AFTER the chain gets reinstalled. Even if you wanted to try and remove it, the shaft is in the way. More on that later. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I found it easiest to remove the tensioner from the back of the cover, and then disassemble it. First I'll removed the nut attaching the tensioner to the shaft on the bracket. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Be sure not to lose the lock washer under the nut. Also pay attention to how the arms of the tensioner are positioned on the shaft. The bracket for the pad is on top of the bracket for the tensioner. Image Unavailable, Please Login
