348 engine out major | Page 21 | FerrariChat

348 engine out major

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by ernie, Feb 22, 2014.

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  1. pnicholasen

    pnicholasen Formula 3

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    #501 pnicholasen, Mar 5, 2014
    Wow Ernie, fantastic thread! Tons of detailed information and great photos. What a great resource for the rest of us. I'm surprised no one has mentioned what I found to be the stoogiest finding of the thread: Check out page 4, #77. Anyone appreciate the beautifully machined titanium spark plug wire separators on top of the cam covers? True ingenuity!
     
  2. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #502 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
    Thanks Bret, I will be adding a pair of these to the tool chest.
     
  3. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #503 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
    :D Adapt and improvise.

    Those are getting replaced with a set of proper separators I bought from Ricambi.
     
  4. pnicholasen

    pnicholasen Formula 3

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    #504 pnicholasen, Mar 5, 2014
    Hey, zip ties are one of the great inventions of modern man! I thought your devices were well engineered, and certainly more robust than the originals.
     
  5. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
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    #505 johnk..., Mar 5, 2014
    Since the belts stretch a lite over time this results in the cams being retarded a degree or two. So when setting up the engine with new belts why not check how many degrees the cams were retarded before removing the old belts. Then divide that in half and when installing the new belts advance the cams that amount. I.e. if the cams were retarded 2 degrees, set them up with 1 degree of advance. Thus as the new belts wear (stretch) the cams will, over time, move from +1 degree to -1 degree, assuming the new belts stretch the same as the old. I'm just thinking that running +1 to -1 over the life of the belts would be better than +0 to -2.
     
  6. pnicholasen

    pnicholasen Formula 3

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    #506 pnicholasen, Mar 5, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    One thing I did which may or may not work when I put it to the test is removing the studs along the bottom of the front cover casting. It's such a PITA to have to remove the oil sump first to remove that front cover, that I used a stud remover to pull the studs, and substituted bolts. Theoretically now when I want to check those tensioner blocks I can pop the front cover off much easier.
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  7. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #507 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Here is a pic of the bottom of the engine before I installed the pan. Pictured are the two sump pick-ups, the pump itself, the windage tray.
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  8. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #508 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    A pic of the snap ring holding the oil pressure spring in place. It's on the back side of the pump. There is another one on the front of the pump as well.

    In the second you may be able to see the ball bearing through the hole.

    From what i've read the oil pressure is fixed from the factory via the spring pressure. Only way to adjust the oil pressure is to replace the springs.
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  9. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #509 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
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  10. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #510 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    One thing I forgot to do while I had the engine on the subframe still was to remove the rear main seal cover. This needed to be removed so I could get the bottom pan on.

    So I removed the nuts holding it to the block, and tapped it off with a screwdriver handle. I couldn't really get it off all the way because the engine stand was in the way, but enough to the the pan back on the bottom of the block.
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  11. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #511 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Then some Hondabond all around the rim on the pan. Of course this was after I made sure both the pan and the bottom of the block were dry, and clean of oil.
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  12. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #512 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I then carefully put the pan back on, and tightened down the nuts, festooning the pan back on the block.

    I know, I know, I need to clean up the bottom of the block better.

    Oh one more thing. See the oil line fitting to the left of my socket. Then see the raised casing of the oil galley running to the front of the block, just past the copper nut. The little round area at the end of the casting is where the o-ring I replaced is, on the inside of the block. The o-ring is sandwiched between the pan and the oil pump.
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  13. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #513 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
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  14. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #514 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
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  15. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #515 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
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  16. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #516 ernie, Mar 5, 2014
    That's a good idea, but.

    You still need the bottom pan off to release the oil chain tensioner once it's reinstalled.
     
  17. pnicholasen

    pnicholasen Formula 3

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    #517 pnicholasen, Mar 5, 2014
    Damn, you're correct.
     
  18. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #518 fatbillybob, Mar 5, 2014
    Additionally it is not a good idea to thread steel into aluminum many times. Studs cut down the potential damage to aluminum and changes the force profile places on the threads.
     
  19. UConn Husky

    UConn Husky F1 Rookie

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    #519 UConn Husky, Mar 6, 2014
    Looking great Ernie!!

    It's time for my 355 major once again...unfortunately this time I simply don't have the time to do it, I know if I started it I'd have a pile of parts in the garage for months. So giving in, taking her to my trusted local ind shop Pocono Sportscar...
     
  20. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
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    #520 Dave rocks, Mar 6, 2014
    Helical inserts are the solution. Plus, I doubt the bolts would be removed often enough to make it an issue.
     
  21. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #521 fatbillybob, Mar 6, 2014
    A theoretical one yes a practical one no.
     
  22. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #522 ernie, Mar 6, 2014
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  23. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #523 fatbillybob, Mar 6, 2014
    That PWC leaves a nice finish. It would have been cool to weld up and cut those cams for top secret horsepower generation. In the old days Web Cam in Riverside were the hot dogs. They were welding up the 308 cams and doing the P6 grind.
     
  24. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #524 ernie, Mar 6, 2014
    I gave that some very serious thought while I had the cams out. I talked with a few cam shops, Web included, and it would have run me around $3000 for the welding and regrind. Then there was getting the cams profiled was about another $500 +/-. I even looked into having new cams made from blanks and that would have run around $6,000. So that is for a later date and time.
     
  25. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    #525 Ferraripilot, Mar 7, 2014
    Cat Cams in Belgium make a fabulous set of cams for the 355 for around $3500 or so. I have communicated with both brothers who own Cat a couple times now and they are willing to make any Ferrari cam and indeed have several they have made which aren't on their website. For future reference I guess
     
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