Thanks for the kind words Pap. Nose to the grid stone and no messing about, 40hrs +/- sounds about right. Fatbillybob did an engine out belt change on the bushmobile in a weekend. Yelcab had the engine dropped out of a 355 in six hours, he did have a lift though. So let's say 8hrs out + 8hrs in = 16hrs, that leaves 24hrs, or three days, to do the rest of the stuff. Keep in mind that I have dug as far into this thing as you can get short of pulling the heads and doing a completely rebuild. I posted all this up to take the mystery out of it, so that IF anyone has to dig in this far at least they have an understanding of what to look for. But for most it will just be dropping the engine, checking the valve lash, new belt, bearings, pump if needed, hoses if needed, seals, gaskets, find tdc, cams on the marks, and back in it goes. You can do it Pap, plenty of guys here have. As you Aussies say, "harden the **** up". LOL! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee_jwjoC86U&feature=youtube_gdata_player]Harden Up Tim - YouTube[/ame] Now go pull that engine!!!
Pap, I bet $10 Ernie does not do right hand drive cars. You can always ship it to me and I'll take on your car... to do an engine out service and send it back converted to left hand drive.
Damn Ernie! LOVE the thread. When I get my 348 in the future.. this is going to be in my toolbox. And I thought I was beign slick with a pair of ramps..
Just remember no 348 brother would be complete with a pair of large vise grips pliers, a roll of body colored duct tape and at least 3 different sized hammers.
Lol dear me. Thanks for the explanation man, I knew I was on the right track in regards to the 40 hrs. Still, a very BIG job and I am not looking forward to it after seeing these pics. Mainly because I have soooooooooooooo many other things to do. If I had absolutely nothing better to do then I would very keen to do the job. Thanks again mate and talk soon. Lol, sounds like a plan mate! Saves me doing the work.
Here you go Mikey. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/444155-348-motronic-2-7-connector-harness-repin-2.html#post143057320 Since I had both wiring looms out of the car I figured this would be the easiest time to repin them.
Let's get this show on the road again. Here you'll see how I stripped down the subframe. My main reason for doing this was because I saw a couple of small stress cracks near the welds, and wanted to get those addressed. That and the subframe was pretty dirty and needed some freshening up. First up was to disconnect the hard brake lines from the subframe. I started by unscrewing the lines at the tri-union under the left shock tower. One of the hard lines in the feed line, the other goes to the right brake calipers, and the line pictured here goes to the left brake caliper. I tried using an opened end wrench on it but it wouldn't budge. So I got out the vice grips to break it loose. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I was having a hard time removing the flexible line from the hard line, so I decided to leave it alone and just take the whole thing out. There is a retaining clip that you need to push out. I used a screwdriver, and a hammer to tap it out. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I then slid, actually wiggled, the hardline out of the mounting hole on the subframe. Image Unavailable, Please Login
With the hardline loose I could now unscrew the flexible line from the back of the caliper. Had I left the hard line in place I wouldn't have been able to continue to twist off the flexible brake line. Remember I couldn't get the other end to come off the hard line. The nuts was starting to strip, and I didn't wanna break anything. So that is why I had to do it this way. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Unclipped it from the ABS cable, and removed the hard/flexible brake line. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
With the lines off the subframe I tried putting box wrenches on both fittings, but still no joy, they would not budge. I'll leave it be, and deal with it at another time. Image Unavailable, Please Login
After removing the other hairlines from the union it became very clear why the other lines wouldn't budge. 24 years of corrosion where holding it together. These things had not seen the day of light since it left the factory. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The ABS sensors came off next. I removed the bolt holding it to the top of the hub. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Then the bolt fastening the sensor to the side of the hub, and slid it out of the hole. Yeah, yeah, I know, there is rust on the rotor. It's from when I washed the engine. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Unclip the cable, wiggle the grommet out of the bracket, and set the ABS cable aside. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The bolt holding the stabilizer linkage and shock to the hub gets removed.\ I put a box wrench on one side, to hold the bolt still, and used my impact wrench on the nut on the other side. You don't really need to use an impact wrench, I just decided to be lazy. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now I removed the nuts holding the top and bottom a-arms to the hub, and slid out the top bolt only. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
