348 engine out major

Now I crawled under the front of the engine bay and loosened 12 the bolts, 6 on each side, holding the subframe to the car. I only LOOSEN them, because I still need them holding things in place, and it will be a pain to try and get them off once the subframe is sitting on the engine dollies.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I used two 1000/lb moving dollies to support the engine. I bought them for $20 each at the hardware store.

They got place so that the carpeted sides were right under the subframe rails. Then with a helper I slowly lowered both floor jacks until the engine was sitting on the dollies. I adjusted the position of the dollies as needed while we were lowering the car.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

With the weight of the car now supported by the moving dollies I then removed the two big bolts on both sides of the subframe, next to the catalytic converters.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Then the 2 bolts, one on each side, on the top, near where the heat shields were.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Now the 6 nuts on the shock towers, 3 on each side (for the early 348's) get removed. Do not remove the one nut in the cut out, as that holds the shock to the subframe.

After I did that, THEN I went back and finish removing the 12 bolts on the bottom front of the subframe, that I loosened earlier.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Now I double checked, my triples checks, to MAKE SURE I had EVERYTHING disconnected. Then with a helper we slowly jack the body off the subframe. When you do this do it little by LITTLE. The reason is, as you are lifting the body off you want to feed the engine looms through the fire wall. So you need to lift a little then feed a little, lift a little feed a little, until you have the wiring looms completely out and the body off the subframe. Go SLOWLY!!!
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Then I rotated the engine 90º so I could roll it out. This allows the shock towers to clear the heat shield bracket, and roll out the engine bay.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

That is how I removed the engine from my 348, using 2 floor jacks, STOOGE STLYE!
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

That's it for now kids.

I'll be back tomorrow to continue with the thread.

Until then, happy wrenching.

 

No it doesn't.

I just like having plenty of room to work with. I have learned it saves me aggravation when I have an easier time accessing things. So I am willing to take the extra few minutes to remove the air box.

 

In one day, but it was ALL day.

The thing is it is taking me 4 times as long to do this major because I have been documenting just about everything. Trying to get the best angle so that the picture explains quite a bit. Then if it is out of focus, or if the battery in the camera needs recharging, etcetera, etcetera. If I wasn't documenting it I could do it much faster. But because I know how you guys love "picture books" it's taking me longer.

 

Yup.

 

"I'm just getting warmed up."

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhVxviUIKKQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player]I'm Just Gettin' Warmed Up - YouTube[/ame]

 

Okay, back to the major.

This going to be a MAJOR, major. So I will be pulling the engine off the subframe. Why? Because the bearing for lower cam belt pulley, that runs off the timing chain, needs to be changed. That and so does the chain tensioner pads for the timing, and oil pump chain.

Remember I like having PLENTY of room to work, so I will be removing just about everything from the engine, then putting it on an engine stand.