http://photobucket.com/albums/v240/ericzz/ I there is anyone out there that would not mind a brief conversation with me I have a few questions on timing marks . I own a shop and have done 100's of belts on all sorts of cars but this is my BABY . Send me a private message with a phone # and I will call you if you do not mind .
Specificly whadaya wanna know? Just bring the #1 piston to TDC. Then line up the cam marks to the marks on the cam journals/caps.
Ok cam marks no issue I see the groove in the cam and the cam x all for cams , I see no real tdc mark that looks dead on . there is the very small pinhole in the top of the balancer, that is straight up and down , then just check the # with a dial guage to find dead on tdc install the belt and set tension .
The mark on the pully isn't very accurate. The marks on the cam are pretty good. But the best way to get a true tdc is to pull the plug. Take the plug out of the #1 cylinder the put a guage in the hole. You can also use a log stick. Then mark were it stops rising, and were it starts to fall again. Use the middle of those two marks for your tdc of #1. It's kinda old school, but still the best way to get a true tdc on this engine. After you get the true tdc, then go ahead with the dial guage.
And feel comfortable with that and the factory marks ? I marked everything before I took it apart to be sure , the car ran 100% before no issue and this is the first belt for this car .
Are you turning each of the four cams simultaneously (e.g. with the new cam belt on), or individually with cam belt off? Or are the cams pulled out, turned, and then reinserted?
Turned it over with original belt on and all 4 cams are on the money . I spread the belt slack between each side and marked everything cams still on the money TDC verified . once my rear timing covers get to me I had the corners crack on me trying to loosen the bolts brass nut spun in the plastic I will be ready to wrap it up .
How much had the old belt stretched compared side by side with the new belt? Did you have to turn the cams all over with the new belt, too?
Any reason why these plastic timing covers shouldn't be transparent? If we could see through them, couldn't we check for frayed belts, unseemly loose tension, black "rubber" belt residue, etc.?
My car is a 1994 with 19k the belt was only loose not dry even when bent to look for cracks . I say every 10 years is very safe for a belt change .
Correct the belt can be retensioned by a simple adjustment but that can not be done to many times . My belt showed no other signs or age other than stretched .
Bear with me as I'm just trying to wrap my mind around this whole concept (I've never done a Major Service, yet). Am I right to understand that your belt was stretched by an earlier tightening of the tensioner? And am I right to say that your belt this week was not actually "floppy loose" on your pulleys?
This is the first new belt for my car . The belt to my knowledge was never adjusted since new . so the stretch was present . There was ZERO noise from my car . no signs , or isssues I am just doing prevetative maintainence here .
Ericzz I got a question? How long did it take really to pull the motor out of the car? Since this is your first time doing this.
That is what I thought? Did you also change your water pump out too, while the motor is out of the car? What else are you changing? What do you reccommend?
I am doing all seals , waterpump ,thermostat, idle and tensioner bearings , belts ,plugs , filters .Basicly everything but a valve adjustment , the car runs to good no noise . I used to be a BMW tech. The shim set up for valves is just like the old bmw M3 M5 M6 engine and I at the dealership rarely had to change out a shim and thoses cars see way more miles than a ferrari . My opinion of course but until you get up there in miles I wouldn't bother .The shims can not go bad over time like a belt or seal . thanks
Do the valves. Trust me, DO THEM. If this is the first time the belt has been changed in 12 years I'm willing to bet the valves have never been looked at. You have to take the cams off any way to change the seals. Plus you already have the engine out. It is WAY easier to do the valves when you have all the room you need to move around. When the cams are off it is super easy to take out the cups and remove the shims, you can do it with two fingers. When I did my major I checked the gaps and 27 out of 32 needed to be adjusted. About half of those were barely in spec. They would either be just on the edge of too loose, or too tight. DO THE VALVES. If my memory serves me correct, the shims should be the same as the old M5s or was it M6s, I think it was the M6s? What ever the case I'm sure you still have some buddies at the BMW shop that can hook you up with any shims you need.
Can you post the cold specs intake / exhaust . and let me know the torgue specs for the cam journal caps thanks I will check them
.20 - .25mm for the intake, and .30 -.35mm for the exhaust. I don't have the torque specs in front of, but they aren't very tight. I actually did mine by hand. From the time I felt first contact of the journal I turned it another 20 -25degs. I'll see if I can find the torque specs laying around somewere.
Thanks I found it in my cd manual . I checked them and are all on the loose side the .25 or .35 will not fit and the .20 .30 fits with a tad of residence to me that is good since loose is better. and the motor had no ticks thanks
That is right where you want them. Actually .20 & .30 are the tighter side, but the side that will make you the best power. Oh who am I telling, you already know this.
Found them in the old archives. http://70.85.40.84/~ferrari/discus/messages/256120/230404.html Take your pick: 0.9 kg-m 78 inch/lbs 6.5 ft/lbs These were the cam cap/journal specs for a 308qv and 328. I do remember them being the same for the 348.
