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348 error code 1111

Discussion in '348/355' started by Tommy J., Jun 21, 2017.

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  1. Tommy J.

    Tommy J. Karting

    Apr 7, 2016
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    Tommy Songkran Johns
    #1 Tommy J., Jun 21, 2017
    I have a fault code 1111 on bank 5-8. 385 ohm on both sides. Tried to switch MAF sensor to bank 1-4. No luck. Opened up the MAF sensor and it is full of water... (Se picture if you can open the file.) I've cleaned it up and right now I'm cooking it on 45 degrees Celsius in my wife's kitchen :) I'll seal it up tomorrow and then we'll see... I also have a bit of a struggle with error code 4121 Exhaust ECU on the same bank. Tried to switch side on Exhaust ECU but fault didn't move side, so I guess the ECU is OK. That code is triggered on both idling and high rpm. Cold and hot. No slow down light. Only MIL for a few seconds and idle drops for a 1/4 seconds and comes back to normal. Mystery to me so far...[​IMG]

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  2. Tommy J.

    Tommy J. Karting

    Apr 7, 2016
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    Tommy Songkran Johns
    #2 Tommy J., Jun 21, 2017
    To correct myself: When I moved the MAF to bank 1-4 the fault also moved to bank 1-4.

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  3. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #3 Wade, Jun 21, 2017
    Yes, 1111 is "Hot wire air flow meter". In other words, the MAF.

    From another thread:

     
  4. Tommy J.

    Tommy J. Karting

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    #4 Tommy J., Jun 21, 2017
    Thanks. I thought the
    Thanks. I thought the temp sensor could only trigger 4122? But maybe if it is a open circuit it triggers 4121. I'll try switching temp sensor tomorrow if my MAF clean up works.

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  5. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #5 Wade, Jun 21, 2017
  6. Tommy J.

    Tommy J. Karting

    Apr 7, 2016
    67
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Tommy Songkran Johns
    #6 Tommy J., Jun 21, 2017
  7. Tommy J.

    Tommy J. Karting

    Apr 7, 2016
    67
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Tommy Songkran Johns
    #7 Tommy J., Jun 22, 2017
    Didn't work... Still having error code 1111. Guess I'll be looking for a replacement MAF.

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  8. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2003
    6,097
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    #8 ///Mike, Jun 22, 2017
    Have you treated all related terminals with DeOxit? That helped a bunch with my random, intermittent lights.

    4121 may very well be the thermocouple. I had a similar issue that was eventually cured by a combination of DeOxit treatments and replacing the TC with one of Dr Bob's upgraded units (available at Rucambi America).

    Good luck and let us know how it works out.
     
  9. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #9 ernie, Jun 22, 2017
    4121 means the Motronic ECU is not seeing a single coming from the Cat TCU. Try swapping the Cat TCUs from side to side to see if the problem jumps sides. If it does then I suspect the Cat TCU is finished. If 4121 does not jump sides, then try swapping the thermocouples from side to side. If it still doesn't jump sides then I would examine the connections and wiring.
     
  10. Tommy J.

    Tommy J. Karting

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    #10 Tommy J., Jun 23, 2017
    Thanks. I'll try swapp the thermocouples as soon as I have a new MAF sensor. The TCUs and Motronic ECUs is OK at least. They are already swapped, with no changes. A guy over here is going to send me a used MAF sensor today, but the housing is cracked so I'll need to use the old one.. Have you ever dismantled a MAF sensor, ernie? I had all visible screws out on mine yesterday but still couldn't pull it apart. (6 screws. 4 on the outside and 2 under the sealed cover)

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  11. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #11 ernie, Jun 23, 2017
  12. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #12 Wade, Jun 23, 2017
    Here's another interesting MAF thread, which looked at alternatives as well (including one without the CO2 screw).

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/495032-mass-air-flow-sensor-maf-available-anywhere-saab-version.html
     
  13. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    #13 m.stojanovic, Jun 23, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    This is what I did on a similar MAF for another car.

    There are 3 more screws under the plastic housing of the electronics, approximately positioned as shown on the first picture. The plastic housing is glued (silicone) to the metal base and, in order to lift it up, you will have to cut the 6 links on the wires going down into the epoxy area of the metal housing and to the hot wire assembly inside the MAF body. Then you can pry the plastic housing off the metal base (the silicone adhesive is quite strong so some force is required) and expose the 3 screws. This is how I removed the plastic housing from a good body as I was concerned only about the body and not the electronics.

    To remove the good electronics from a bad body, I did not want to cut the 6 links from the good electronics to the hot wire assembly as I thought that soldering them later would not be as good as the factory crimps. I removed the whole assembly, the plastic housing together with the hot wire assembly. To do this, I carefully drilled the plastic where the left and right hidden screws are marked with red dots (which you can locate more accurately by measuring/scaling from the second picture) to be able to access the screw heads underneath. I couldn't do same for the middle screw (red dot) as this would have damaged the electronics. What I did was very carefully cut and "Dremelled" the (bad) housing until I got it off the middle screw (unscrewed the the left and right screws in the process through the drilled holes in the plastic). I then cut the middle screw shank flush with the aluminium base and left its head inside. In this way, I had the complete electronics and hot wire assembly ready to be screwed onto the good housing with only the left and right hidden screws (the middle screw is not absolutely necessary as the new silicone provides strong adhesion anyway).

    As a donor for the electronics + hot wire assembly, you can also use Bosch 0 280 212 016 which is used in the Volvo 940 but you would have to transfer to it the blue potentiometer, the adjuster screw and its plastic cylinder housing from the 348 MAF. If you can find Bosch 0 280 212 022 from a Saab, it is bolt-on.
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  14. Tommy J.

    Tommy J. Karting

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    #14 Tommy J., Jun 23, 2017
    Thank you so much guys. This is all great info. It will really help me out, and you good people makes it possible to own this great 348 without being bankrupt 👍

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  15. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #15 ernie, Jun 23, 2017
    That is what the 348 Brotherhood is all about!
     
  16. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #16 AceMaster, Jun 23, 2017
    Agree
     
  17. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    #17 m.stojanovic, Jun 23, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Additional info: if you decide to drill through the plastic to access the left and right hidden screws, do not drill large holes as there is an embedded copper link near the right red dot, approximately where shown by the gray line on the pic. I drilled to the diameter of a thin screw driver (there is no need to get the screws out, just to expose their +).
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  18. Tommy J.

    Tommy J. Karting

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    #18 Tommy J., Jun 24, 2017
    I managed to solder (awful looking) a burned off 12volt input on the MAF. Not easy to get enough heat there.. It is working again! But... now I've got code 1211. O2 sensor related. I thought the MAF still was crazy so I swapped side again, but the 1211 is still on bank 5-8. I measured resistance on the O2 sensor housing to ground. I had 48 ohm! Made a groun wire on the outside on the sensor, ( I think ernie postet a tips like this before ) but still throwing 1211 on bank 5-8. I've ordered a new O2 sensor just in case, but I 'm starting to think I have a misfire on a cylinder. When I stop the engine there is a fuel smell around the 5-8 bank. I also have noticed a fuel smell at full trottle and peak rpm when I drive with open windows. The MIL have been lit for a short second too, but the only code stored at that point was 4121 exhaust ECU. Maybe all of my trouble codes is related to misfire. ( Except code 1111) I'll start swapping coil, igniter and cables. I couldn't see any bad spark plugs. They all looked good and equal.[​IMG]

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  19. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    #19 m.stojanovic, Jun 24, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I guess the burnt off link was the one shown by the red line on the picture below. It is hair-thin and it actually was work for a neurosurgeon. Great you managed to do it.
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  20. Tommy J.

    Tommy J. Karting

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    #20 Tommy J., Jun 25, 2017
    Correct! I felt like a neurosurgeon when I repaired it too🤣 It really needs to be quickly heated if not everything in there is going to be melted.

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  21. Tommy J.

    Tommy J. Karting

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    #21 Tommy J., Jul 3, 2017
    Well... The MAF 12volt input got burned out again. I decided to move over the used electronic unit to my original housing as m.stojanovic suggested. And I'm back on the roads. Thanks for sharing the location of the hidden screws!!

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