348 Flywheel ???? Please help

Mike,
I don't understand why they are suggesting a new flywheel if all it is doing is leaking grease. I have read many times on this site that all it takes is a resurfacing, repack and new seals. They must not be very confident in their work or there might be more to the story than they are saying.

Are you sure they haven't mentioned other problems with it like hot spots, severe checking or surface cracks from extreme heating conditions? Grease will do that to a flywheel making it difficult to save even with a resurface.

You may want to try to locate a "good used" if such a thing exists in 348 flywheels. T. Rutlands maybe?

Ask them why you need a new one and let us know!

One good thing about this, it's happening in January not July.

DJ

 

It could be that they are suggesting a new one as a "Best Option" which in many cases is the prudent thing to do. In this case I am not so sure. Unless it has been severely abused I can't see why reconditioning wouldn't be good enough.

Keep asking those questions.

 

All you should have to do is turn or rehone the flywheel, repack the throw out, and replace the seals on the output shaft. A new flywheel for a dual plate clutch is a cool 3k last I checked and you sure as hell dont need it. The flywheel is just a big metal disk and thus it cannot leak. If anything is leaking its the seals or the throw out.

John

 

12k??? I did mine last spring for 1800 in parts and two hours of my time. You are getting taken it seems.

 

Mike,
You owe it to yourself to call James @ Norwoods. They are an F-chat sponsor and know these cars inside out. He is INTIMATELY FAMILIAR with this. They'll steer you straight, and save you some $$$ if possible. The phone # there is (972) 831-8111. Let us know what happens.
Jeff

 

Do a search for my past posts on this.

It is not the FW that is the probem it is the 3 seals on the shaft that allow gearbox oil to leak into the dampner part of the FW assembly. This can be repacked with grease for a $40 bucket of grease! You do not need a new one. What you need is a new mechanic who knows what he is doing. This thread keps coming up. You guys shoud convert to my solid FW design. I have raced it for about a year plus and it is bullet proof. No more hot start problem no more fear of leaks.

 

fatb - is your solid flywheel mod done to an existing flywheel? I know - no need to prompt - I'll search and reread the threads on it. J/k.

 

The idea of discarding and replacing a $3000 flywheel, on a car with 13,000 miles on it, because "it leaks", is hateful to me.
Mike, I found a picture of the inside of my flywheel, just so you know what they look like.
Edit: Of course, this is what it looks like after an hour spent cleaning it up, and before adding the new Kluber grease. But if these internal parts are in good shape, it would be a crime to pay for a new flywheel !!
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Milt, well said, nice pic.
This is not a difficult operation. It is simple, you can just repack the clutch if this is indeed the issue. If you don't feel comfortable, just pull off the pumpkin and send it to Norwoods. He'll do it all for you, (or for your mechanic); then, reinstall, and you're done. Go drive.

 

Yes I mod the exisitng and everything is stock but there are no guts and it drops about 6 or 8 lbs (I forget now) out of the FW assembly too for a bit fast spin up.

 

Why is the flywheel so complicated?

I understand putting a dual mass flywheel on a low speed slogging 4 cylinder diesel to improve the drivability, but a high reving V8?

 

I have read that it was designed this way to neutralize or at least minimize drive train shock and impulses.

DJ

 

Did you give them the OK to resurface your flywheel?

DON'T LET THEM HAVE YOUR OLD FLYWHEEL, GET IT RETURNED TO YOU. Get your old disc and pressure plate returned as well.

 

Sounds like you did all you could do.

It may not be that your previous owner didn't know how to drive as much as it sounds like he liked to show off with some hard launches etc..............

We have another member here in the NW who's car suffered the same fate at the hands of the P/O. Clutch, flywheel, bellhousing etc.................

The good thing about the clutch giving up is it is the component that took the brunt of abuse and hopefully protected the transaxle somewhat.

I turned a steel flywheel down to where there were no visible hot spots and still had problems with it because the temper of the metal in the hot areas was different than the surrounding surface causing inconsistant friction with the disk. All the turning did was get rid of the visible part but not all of the damaged area. It re-glazed in those spots.

Look at it this way. You will know what you have when you are done, no mystery, no surprises in that department.

Hopefully this will be the extent of your "introduction" to the car for a while.

Good Luck Mike.

DJ

 

If you are having to change out the flywheel anyway, I would change it over to the single plate type clutch.

 

mike my understanding is that the single is better and costs a lot less to replace....but let others confirm this

 

I did my FW 1 year ago , most proffesionals told me to buy a new one because it was toasted. I didn't .
New seals metal plate's and repacking it solved my hot start problem and a rattle.
If I have ever problems again I think I make it a solid one just as fatbillybob did.

Luuk