348 Fuel door won't open

Have you checked the fuse/relay located in the step pad fuse panel?

 

Not the fuse/relay then. Have you tried a second pair of hands while pulling the emergency release handle? You probably have some crud gunking up the plunger. Once you get it open I would clean it thoroughly. Hopefully others will chime in with a more effective fix but I can't think of anything else if you have been unsuccessful with the emergency handle/cable.

Good luck.

 

I had the same problem you’re having when I took delivery of my 355 just a few months ago.

I'm not sure if the 348 fuel actuator is the same as the 355. If it is then this is what I had to do. Use the plastic knife or whatever you’re using and open the fuel door. Take off the rear drivers wheel and well liner and then you will be able to gain access to the actuator and remove it. There is a nut inside the fuel door that you will also have to remove from the actuator. Once you have it off the car you can manually slide the pin in and out, apply some sort of lubricant to the pin I used WD-40 spray.
The actuators seem to freeze up due to non use.

I hope this helps

 

Richard,

Here is a link to the diagram for a 348. This will provide you with a better understanding of how it is assembled.

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=3129

 

Interesting info. I've noticed that on my 355, the door can be "sluggish" at times and others open right up. I might try this.

 

When the PPI was done on my car an inoperative fuel door switch was one of the problems found. I decided this was a problem that my limited skills might be able to fix. I got out the shop manual, bought relays and fuses and prepared to tackle the problem. After reading this post I just sprayed a little WD-40 on it and that did the trick.

Thanks for taking the time to post this. It does pay to use search.

It's a good day when you can fix a problem on your Ferrari with nothing more than a squirt of WD-40.

 

Tell you what, guys, wish my fuel filler cap had snags from non use. With mine it seems to need opening far too often!

 

I'm trying to drive mine as much as I can. Only managed 21 miles last week. At this rate I may have to drive it to work occasionally.

I just bought my car a couple months ago. The service records indicate that it was consistently driven around 3000 miles every year. One of the reasons I posted this follow up on an old thread is because others may have this same problem. I'll probably spray some WD-40 on it every year during regular maintenance. Maybe someone will correct me but I would think that the solenoid that opens the door might be damaged by being binded up and having the electrical signal to open it being sent through it. The WD-40 may have saved me a bigger bill later on to replace a broken solenoid.

 

Mine was good for about 6 months after taking it out and squirting some lube in her. It's starting to take longer to open again. Has anyone taken the actual actuator apart?

 

Must admit mine was slow to open when I first got the car and it had been underused for a bit (less than 1500 miles in 3 1/2 years as long as the records are accurate of course). I just opened it and closed it a bunch of times and it now springs open fine. That said I've put quite a few more miles on my car in 6 months than the previous owner did in 3 1/2 years so I guess that helps. On a nice day I do take the car to work. Added incentive is the runway has no speed limit on it which helps!

 

I have the same problem due to lack of use, I reckon I use the fuel cap once every 3 months. Will try some WD40.

 

My 355 had similar problem but it turned out to be the rubber protective piece that flips up was caught between the plunger pin and the guide hole..

 

I used to have the same problem every 2 weeks or so.

Whatever you do, never use WD40.....2 reasons, 1 – it removed paint so don’t do it. Don’t believe me, spray it on an old tool box as if you wanted to clean it and take a white rag and wipe your box….check the rag for paint.

2 – That stuff works for 5 mins, it removes all grease and lube then it leaves the area you sprayed it non lubricated and sticky.

I tried both next solutions (since I had both at home) If you car never sees rain you can use dry graphite powder that is used in locks…this stuff is amazing since it’s a dry cylinder. A bottle is the same size as 3 in 1 oil and cheap, a few dollars. When you wash your car, stick a rag there.

The other solution I used since I got caught a few times in the pouring rain with my 348 and as well in extreme cold (Nov and Mar). I used Remington’s Dry Lube…why? I used to have feed and extraction problems with my M4 in extreme weather. The firing would heat everything up and the cold would cause condensation, the oil would get thicker and everything would bind up. I noticed the same with this little cylinder. So I cleaned off all the crap grease and oil off with a little brake cleaner since it evaporates then used an air can to spray air around the cylinder but make sure you put a rag over your hand to ensure it doesn’t spray all over your paint. Then I used Dry Lube. When I take her out of storage, I spray the cylinder with dry lube and this problem has never come back since.



~

Mario

 

Thanks I will try some of this stuff.

 

Peter old boy, you're complaining because you have to drive your FERRARI too much? A lot of folks would love to have your problem. Sorry buddy, just couldn't resist. Safe journeys my friend.