348 idle issue. Surging | FerrariChat

348 idle issue. Surging

Discussion in '348/355' started by bellwilliam, May 30, 2021.

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  1. bellwilliam

    bellwilliam Formula Junior

    Oct 25, 2014
    399
    91 348TS. When engine is warm. Idle surges, rpm up and down.

    Sometimes engine dies repeatedly when wam. Not sure if it is related. But they started happening around the same time.
    Any idea what might be the issue ? Thanks.
     
  2. steved033

    steved033 F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Apr 12, 2017
    9,526
    Atlanta, GA
    Full Name:
    Steve D.
    My goto on any weird idle/surging is an ECU reset. not kidding. I just unplug the battery, and redo the start sequence. I swear it's the change of seasons.

    If you have an idle air valve, maybe it's a little wonky.

    sjd
     
  3. dahveedem

    dahveedem Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2012
    1,603
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    David
    Curious, any issues when you do a hot restart? Does it strain to restart?



    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     
  4. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
    328
    Ottawa ON
    Full Name:
    Sandy
    Certainly a reboot is always good! If it sounds like running on 7-8-7 at an idle, stalling when coming to a quick stop, then check the wiring plug connectors to the mafs'. Wiggle them around, if idle improves, then shut it down and reach for the contact cleaner. Those connectors are notorious for poor idle/stalling, as well as the idle/air valves.
     
  5. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2018
    5,728
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    Eric
    ILLA NOIZ likes this.
  6. tonyguy

    tonyguy Rookie

    Jan 24, 2021
    30
    London
    Full Name:
    Tony Pemberton
    The extact same thing's happened to mine, up & down sometimes at idle & cuts out & sharp stops, seems to fair better if I don't coast. I those aren't expensive things. The mrs doesn't want me spending anymore money on it for while after spending £3k on a clutch, handbrake & a lock repair.
     
  7. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2018
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    A few posts on cutting off when stopping if you want to check them out. My car did those too. They pretty much ALL do as they age. Now mine drives like it was off the showroom but I went through it all with an inventory list and checked them off as I replaced. Nothing worse than a dream car as reliable as an MG you don't trust to drive. My opinion it is why they are bought with great glee and sold < 12 months later in annoyance, wash rinse repeat. So easy to fix as DIY no less. Straight remove and replace jobs. Order can vary and there are opinions on that but this is my suspect list generally assuming you have no CEL and the CEL lights both work. You can check resistance and voltage etc and not straight replace but it gets tricks with intermittent issues.

    I'd replace these to start, in that order, no engine code so your in remove and replace mode, sometimes its a combo.
    • Crank sensors can mimic wiring issue or itself has frayed wires causing that cut off. Kia ones work but I used OEM Bosch ones $250
    • O2 sensors, get real ones from auto parts not from the Baltics at really cheap prices. $140
    • Cam position sensor. People say they fail suddenly, but they start to throw wonky singles intermittently before they fail that can go on for some time. $85
    Still having issues after that
    • FPR & Clean Injectors $125 (Bosch not available but Intermotor is adequate)
    • Bosch Ignition modules $160 (xref to Porsche part numbers)
    • Bosch Coils $100 (xref to Porsche part numbers)
    Still having issues after that
    • Rebuild Bosch MAFs. You can't buy them, but you can rebuild them. They just plain wear out and do get water intrusion. (Personally I'd do that first) $500
    • Bosch Fuel pumps $250
     
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  8. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2011
    3,165
    Malaysia - KL
    Full Name:
    Miroljub Stojanovic
    Perhaps the first thing to check are the Idle Control Valves. They can get gummed-up and sticky. A good clean-up of the valves may solve the issue.
     
    26street likes this.
  9. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    Here is an example


    I suspect not but good maintenance item to try and costs like $6.
    I did that on mine, despite them being clean. Still had issues. Assumed maybe spring tension was off. Eventually replaced them with new BOSCH IAC. For me it was a combination of things slightly off due to high time on the components.
     
    bellwilliam likes this.
  10. ILLA NOIZ

    ILLA NOIZ Karting

    Mar 28, 2015
    129
    Concord, North Carolina
    Full Name:
    Drew
    I had a similar issue. I cleaned my MAFs and replaced the O2 sensor on the bank that was throwing a code (finally. For a while no code - just random issue here and there until I noticed every start up I had a rough idle that sorted itself after warming up)
     
  11. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2018
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    One thing you can do also is balance the intakes with the air screws. Over time people monkey with those. You can use vacuum gauges, it is in the WSM, that smoothed my idle a bit too, actually it was the final thing I did. My rough/surging idle was a combination of things, unfortunately it is often not just one thing. The major contributor to my occasional cold idle was a failing MAF, no code just not reading like it should after 30 years. Replaced them both with new ones. Once that was solved among other things, loose fuel line on the tank fuel pump for example, balancing the intakes really cleaned up the idle as banks were not "fighting" each other anymore. Purrs like a kitten now with no bobble or blurb when cold or warm when idling any more. Like a sewing machine, very nice.
     

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