To my eye, it looks as though you had a whole bunch of oil get in there via the vapor hose, that gets attached to the bottom of intake hose right before it enters the throttle body. That hose runs all the way back to the filler tank. I'm guessing that because it's only on one side. Why only one side? Beats me, maybe because of bad timing as Brian said? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Right think i may have found the problem! Did a leak down test and got these results, No 1 cylinder 35% No 2 cylinder 80% No 3 cylinder 10% No 4 cylinder 10% No 8 cylinder 35% No 7 cylinder 32% No 6 cylinder i got 65% so i had a thought maybe the valve is sticking or has carbon around them as the motor has no run for nearly 3 years ! so i tapped the exhaust valve bucket with a brass drift and to my surprise the leak down gauge read 20% so did the same on the inlet valves and it read 0% Did the same on No5 and got it down to 0%. Went back to No 8 and that i got down to 28% and 20% on # 7. Up until this point i was not very happy thinking i had to take the heads off so was quite excited to see what cylinders 1-4 would now read with me tapping the valve open. I got 0% on No4 0% on No3 75% on No 2 19% on No 1 As you can see no 2 is the issue , air is leaking out of the exhaust and the inlet valve. I have snap on bore scope, cannot see much in the bore but is i send it down the exhaust port i can see the valve head and some of the seat and it look ok ? Yes there is penalty of carbon around there but i cannot see a Burt valve. Will do a compression test tomorrow and see what that brings. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You win http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=138437471&postcount=97 Was the inlet valve spring on the no2 cylinder Good man, and thanks for all your help.
Glad it was not more serious! How many valve spring problems have the pros found? Is it common? How about just weak springs?
And me Rick, been watching your thread for inspiration, did you time your cams by the lobe centre method in the end ?
Thanks, Paul! Ask me how I suspected ... I had the exact same compression (50) on cyl #3, same symptoms on a 328 engine and it was one of the intake valves. I'm removing the head tomorrow. Glad to know it wasn't something more serious
Paul, I plan to post more in my thread on what I did with the lobe centerline method, but here's basically what I did. I have an 18" degree wheel, which was almost too big, but made marking the wheel easier. First, I marked TDC for Cyl#1 in Black tape. Then I marked the #1 Intake lobe centerline at 109.5 deg. past TDC with black tape and the #1 Exhaust lobe centline at 111.5 deg before TDC in black tape. I then did the same on the wheel for #5 cylinder in Red tape. Made it easy to keep track of where I was! Here's a pic.... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great minds think alike ! What i was going to ask was, before i stripped my head off i wanted to check the cam timing, yes the notches on the cam and cam caps lined up but i thought i would get some experience in. I have read FBB and followed your thread but i am a little confused about where you take the reading from, let me explain. Say we want a lobe centre of 110 deg, the valve reached full lift at 110 OK but you can move the crank 10 deg until the valve starts to shut, should i not split the 10 deg and which would be the true lobe centre? Giving the actual timing of 115 ???? OR do you just wait for the dial gauge to stop moving and take that figure ? (110 deg) Do you see where i am coming from ? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Having a little trouble understanding you, but once TDC for a cylinder is found, and marked on the degree wheel, I just turned the crank until the dial indicator stops (full lift), and that's the spot. Actually, I marked my wheel as #5 cyl, but I actually used #8 which was closer! Doesn't matter which cylinder is used, as long as you find TDC on that cylinder. What I actually do is do it several times to verify.... I check, then turn the crank CCW way past full lift, then turn CW again to take up the slack and check again. I do this several times to get what I feel is a consistent reading. If it's not consistent, then dial gauge may not be tightened down tight or is moving around. Make sure the wheel is tight and won't slip on the crank. I used a thick wire like FBB suggested as a pointer. But I lived in fear that I'd bump and move it, and actually did at least once, so had to find TDC again and start over. Next time, I'm going to use a solid piece of metal that is bolted solid. Looks like your pointer is good! Hope this helps. Will try to help if you have more questions! PS - my cam marks mostly lined up pretty close, but one was off over 1 line width .... closer to 2 widths. So all of the messing I did was just getting it as close as possible. The cam marks are reasonably close. Take Care!
