Hi all, I've found a crack in the plastic union on my 348 and am working to source it. Similar to the gent with the 550 who was having a bunch of dead pedal and trouble engaging gears.. same issue. I need to rule out air getting into the system first before I go ripping out the clutch. The major was last year and I've put ~1k miles on it since then with zero issues. At the time of the major they inspected the clutch as they pulled it to to do the oil chain pickup and said everything looks ok. While I'm working on sourcing the part I threw a bit of silicone on the leak to see if it temporarily fixes the issue. I figure I'll get a master cylinder on the shelf too. The challenge I'm having is I can't find anything on how to R&R the master cylinder. Also there is a mention of bleeding the MC, but again I can't find anything on that one either. Maybe I'm just missing it in my searching but I also did a Google search and didn't find anything either. a little help please? TIA, David
You may want to check this thread out. Post #4 has a vid from a British chap that might help. Let us know how you make out. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348-clutch-master-cylinder-removal.601698/
Thanks! Now I remember that one but it was late and wasnt in my search history. Appreciate the memory kick and link! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
If I remember correctly, that video does not apply to the 348. There is a Teves brake master cylinder on the car, and there is a clutch master cylinder that is fed by a hose from the brake reservoir. Removing it is a simple procedure of undoing two nuts, the stem connected to the pedal, and sliding it out after you disconnect the hydraulic lines. Bench bleed the new master cylinder before you put it back. Then bleed the whole circuit. I think that is all.
The R&R is the same on both, undoing two nuts, the stem connected to the pedal, and sliding it out after you disconnect the hydraulic lines.
The new clutch MCs come with M8 threaded holes on the flange these days so you will first have drill the threads out by an 8 mm drill bit. Then you can bench bleed the MC - just find a way to feed brake fluid to the hose adapter in top, holding the exit hole a bit up, and pump slowly until you get all the air out. Then you will have to plug/cap both ports on the MC so that the fluid does not leak out during installation. However, I did not go through this procedure; just used a pressure bleeder.
I think you also need to save the fork at the end of the stem from the old master cylinder. That does not come with the new MC.
Wow.. got a new plug for the MC in place now and the Honda elbow. What a bugger it was to get it out and get the new one in. I.leep massaging it in place as it's not quite down tight. The hole in the elbow was bigger than i thought AND it's been leaking like crazy. Lots of brake fluid lying below the MC. Have the motive pressure bleeder hooked up but waiting for wife or kids to get home to help me bleed the clutch line. Hoping. This sorts it.. but I do have a new MC in the bench ready to go. (For the fun with that hop over to the post about anyone dealt with Scuderia parts in the UK) Will update after bleeding. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
There's no number on it but let me dig through my receipts and find it... its red is all I can tell you right now. Update... ok I think it's a 1113. I can't find the receipt or order but did a quick check. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
So bled and drove. Holy crap the clutch actually shoved my foot back it was that strong. No more grinding of gears. I'm still trying to work that rubber plug in tighter.. it's tough...any ideas? I'm afraid its gonna pop out. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
