Ohh dear, at the last poolparty I told everyone the ferrari hasn't fail on me yet. i guesse I shouldn't have sad it... After its is warmed, i hear a rattle. not high and tingeling but low. It sound like it comes from the engine, timingbelt side. Belt has been serviced a year ago. Any thoughts? Belt tensioner gone bad?(new) waterpump?(old) Thanks in advance! Ben. Holland
Usually water pump failure is accompanied by a leak. I'd check the accessory belt tensioner bearing, tho usually a bearing failure is more high-pitched. How does the frequency and loudness of the rattle change with engine speed? load? road speed? bumps? A/C usage?
Plugzit, Thanks for your co-thinking! The tensioners has been changed with the belt and stuff... So its reasonably unlikely it is broken ( note how I carefully try to affoid to say; it can't be broken..). There is no water leakage. The specialist who did the belt-change told me the pump was fine and did not need changing. (specialist my ass, next time I do the belt change myself) i have taken the dyno and airco-belt of. I noticed the crankshaft pulley having some rotating play. Not more than one mil. But I can feel it. Problem is, I have no fitting tool for the hidden 36mm bolt... Should there be some play on the pulley? Or have we found the problem? Thanks in advance, Ben. Ignore the spelling; I'm better with tools than with words....
As for your questions: I hear it at idle. Littlle throttle and it is gone. Turning the aircon on, the sound changes slightley. Personaly I blame the lose pulley. Ben.
Agreed, shouldn't be any play there, as that bolt has megatorque. Fix that first. You may have to make a tool by cutting a socket and welding a long handle to it, I'm not sure. Or bending a long box-end wrench with extension attached for length. Not an easy one for sure. Good luck, good find!
Plugzit, I'm affraid so... I can't find the specs. Do you know the thorque numbers for the central bolt? Maybe I can get it out and put some loctite on it... Thanks, Ben.
Are you sure that you have rotational play? If so it's not going to be easy to fabricate a tool to get in there. There is simply not enough room. Best bet would be to lower the subframe enough to re-torque the bolt. Could be done in a few hour if your mechanic was good. Good luck, Mark
I have machined a tool. Bassicly chopped a wrench and welded a piece of iron to it. It helps to own a machineshop... The nut was loose. It toke totaly no efford to pry it out. I'm thinking about using some locktite to prefend this from happening again. Ofcourse I must be able to loosen it in the future incase of a belt change. Does anyone know the torque numbers for this bolt? Now it is time to grab a beer, and pounder about what might have happend.... Regards, Ben.
196 NM. You will probably need to make another tool to insert into two of the holes on the pulley in order to counter act the torque you will apply with the wrench - see attached photo of front of engine. Attached is a photo of the torque page from the manual. I would not use loctite If you can achieve the torque value noted in the table, that could make it pretty hard to get back off when you do the next engine out belt change. I would say your shop didn't get the bolt tight enough when they did the belt change. Be careful not to over-do it either, as the bolt isn't as big as the head would lead you to belive it is. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dave, As for the picture of your 'engine out', did you leave the aircon compressor in the car with the lines attached? Aka no need to refill the aircon system? Regards, Ben
Yes I did leave the AC compressor in the car. It takes some work as you have to remove the AC bracket and carefully swing the assembly out of the way. If you remove the front bracket (it is on the motor in the picture) is dosen't put stress on the AC lines. Being in the AC business of compressors - you really don't want to break into the refrigerant circuit unless you have to - it gives the potential for dirt, moisture, etc. to enter the system. I know the official procedure is to remove it - and I actually think that would be easier - but you can do it without removing the compressor from the car. The front pulley used to be called a damper as it had a heavy steel ring pressed over a steel hub with rubber between - also called a harmonic balancer. I guess they just continue to call them the same thing. You are right about the loctite, you can heat it out. When I think about it mine was pretty gummy when I took it out too - someone may have put loctite on it in the past. I would say that would be OK, just don't get carried away with the volume of material you use.
Thanks too all! I have used some loctite, and sort of, re-torqued it. I am putting al the parts back where they belong. I am going to test run the engine without the ac and alternator belts, to eliminate noises. Since it is fairly easy accesable, i'm going do some driving and then check the bolt every 1000 km or so. Ones biten, twice shy... Regards, Ben.
