348 Odd Overheating Problem | FerrariChat

348 Odd Overheating Problem

Discussion in '348/355' started by Koenig1, Aug 11, 2018.

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  1. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
    328
    Ottawa ON
    Full Name:
    Sandy
    #1 Koenig1, Aug 11, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2018
    First off, 91TS, been fighting with this problem for quite some time. Problem= start car, drive until fully warm(90C)... highway cruising will stay around 90C/194F. If I drive into town, traffic jam, etc, temps will climb to 115C/239F and slowly cool off 'somewhat' with fans running full time. Fans kick in normally. The temps will not come back down enough for fans to shut off(or seems like forever) unless getting back on highway for .5kms.
    Things that have been done:
    New water pump (Ricambi) 4k kms (last year)
    Flushed rads a couple of times, can see light from other side of rads, compressed air from backside with cleaning solution.
    Bled system 16x, heater on, etc...!
    Watered(distilled) down coolant to see if that might help... no major difference
    Changed old rad cap(.9bar) for a 1.1 Bar... pressure tested new cap. all good
    Pressure tested cooling system 16lbs (engine hot & cold)for 20 minutes each, no loss in pressure
    Checked all spark plugs for possible 'sauna bathing' all clean/lean & normal
    no white smoke from exhaust
    used Block Tester to check for any 'containation' of coolant with engine running.... is a tester that changes color if combustion gases are present.... all clean, no head gasket leakage...
    There are 3 ideas that I haven't done yet...
    Change out thermostat... but, in my view, thermostats tend to stick open, or in my case if stuck closed, engine would overheat almost immediately???
    Pull the rads and have them steam cleaned, inside & out.... have run cleaning crap through them and flushed???
    Water-Wetter... will help, but there has to be another problem...
    Anyway, any thoughts welcome.... thanks so much
     
  2. Pangea

    Pangea Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2011
    442
    UK
    Full Name:
    Nick
    I had the same problem with in traffic temps and it turned out only one fan was working. Faulty original connector. It was fine on the open road. Sounds like you have checked the fans though. Do they both cut in?
     
  3. SoCal1

    SoCal1 F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Jun 14, 2011
    8,570
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    Tim Dee
    Are rads clogged with corrosion inside? When hot check temp at bottom and top of radiator to see if they are the same.
    Let car cool down, does the radiator hose stay hard like its still pressurized? If yes you may have head gasket issues or combustion gas getting into the coolant. Even doing a pressure test on the radiator does not find all head gasket leaks, this type of leak acts like a reed valve leaking one way only.
    With cold engine start car and bring up to temp with coolant cap off. look for tiny bubbles in the coolant to verify of combustion is leaking in. Verify the coolant is flowing with thermostat open.

    If that passes then it's something simple in the cooling system, hopefully the waterpump is not defective. These cars run cool by nature

    Good luck :)

    xo
     
  4. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Mar 31, 2006
    32,793
    East Central, FL
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    Wade O.
    My 90 ts hated stop and go traffic here in Fl (summer temps during 3/4 of the year). My 92 tb seems a lot cooler. :)
     
  5. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
    328
    Ottawa ON
    Full Name:
    Sandy
    Thanks for your quick replies.
    Yes, both fans are operating properly.
    I thought head gasket but did the 'Block Test' to see if there were any gases in the coolant. Basically you remove the rad cap, warm up engine, and place the tester filled (to line) with test liquid(blue) in place of rad cap, and squeeze bubble for 5 mins sucking up any gases within the coolant tank that might be coming from a leaking gasket. Did this test a couple of times, no color change. Actually screwed the rad pressure tester on when hot/running pressurized to 15lbs to see if I could get a rise/or drop in pressure.... stayed the same???... but not on for too long.

    This is getting stupid.... drove car tonight, temps stayed just around 88>92C for most of the drive. Only after filling for gas did it move up, but then again I was on it for a bit, then cooled back down to 90C fairly reasonably in time????
    It may still be a head gasket, just trying not to pull engine and find out it was something stupid
     
  6. SoCal1

    SoCal1 F1 Veteran
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    Jun 14, 2011
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    Tim Dee
    Those chem tests are 50-50 at best spotting real issues, they spot the most obvious
     
  7. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Dec 22, 2011
    2,754
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    Miroljub Stojanovic
    If there are small head gasket leaks, they would cause overheating at higher engine loads/speeds and not in slow traffic and low engine loads/revs. It is possibly the thermostat not opening fully - restricts the flow significantly at low pump speeds/pressures but the pump, when running at higher revs (highway speeds), manages to push more flow through it providing just enough cooling.
     
  8. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
    328
    Ottawa ON
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    Sandy
    Hmm... that did cross my mind about a thermostat not opening fully! Years ago, I had heating problems with a liquid cooled snowmobile engine. What I discovered when diagnosing, was the thermostat shaft had bent, (heat most likely)and would never open more than a quarter lift. Miroljub, you have something there.... Time to pull the thermostat, if only to cross that off. The engine does seem to run fine/cool until traffic, or downtown city street/stop, go, stop. At that time, both fans are trying to cool, but it takes quite some time to get back to a normal temp... usually by getting out on open road, and then the fans shut down. When driven hard, the temp will rise a bit, maybe somewhat more than expected.... but I'm MOVING... and the air through the rads will help in this regard. I will try to pull the thermostat tomorrow... just know it's a PITA, removing the engine cover, etc, and working out the roof! LOL!
     
  9. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
    328
    Ottawa ON
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    Sandy
    OK, pulled the thermostat, verified that it opens/closes at proper temps... and it did!!! I suspected it would as when it warms up driving, I can see the fluctuation on the temp gauge as it opens, draws cooler reserve, opens, and so on.
    So..oo. that leaves me with a head gasket headache! Unless someone can come up with another alternative, I'll be pulling the engine tomorrow. GrrR!
    Anyways, drained all the coolant out again, inner wheel wells out, spraying all open threads with penetrating oil and just called it a day.
    Maybe it's a good thing as I'll be able to get to some oil sweat/leaks that have been bugging me since the last major. Wish Ferrari engines had that Japanese O-ring case sealing.... I'll be more stringent in my assembly this time!
    Again... if anyone has another suggestion before I pull it, I'm all ears,,, LOL!
     
  10. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    26,411
    socal
    Blackstone labs can test for combustion gas in coolant. 348 are not known for HG issues unless you overheated the car before. IMO HG not likely with this bulletproof motor. Have you used a laser IR temp gauge to monitor the temp on hoses and Radiator is as expected? I.E. one side of radiator is hot in and the other side cold out. Are you getting that? While also unlikely you could have fouled radiator internals. I'm not a fan of extended life coolants used to their full life. I swap out coolant every year to 2 years. It is also possible to mix coolant types improperly and get precipitates in the coolant that plug radiators i.e. IAT and OAT coolants don't play well together. I'm a fan of OAT coolant Zerez G05 because it is aluminum safe and has anti-cavitation additives. We see more cavitation issues under extreme use like racing and diesel motors, and there have been a couple of cavitiation issues in Ferrari V12 motors but imo more likely to have been maintenance issues.
     
  11. SoCal1

    SoCal1 F1 Veteran
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    Jun 14, 2011
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    Tim Dee
    Before yanking that thing you still did not diagnose the issue. Please check the temps on the radiator top bottom left right. At full operating temps after driving the car at least a half hour or more to really get it warmed up.
    I cant tell you how many radiators I pulled over the years where the bottom few inches were wasted. Even cars running perfectly.
    When I say a few radiators I mean several hundred I personally took out and thousands my crew took out over the years.
     
  12. Pangea

    Pangea Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2011
    442
    UK
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    Nick
    Its a lot of work without confirming the head gaskets are definitely an issue. You don't see many instances of failure on this engine. Ive always been happy with the chemical tester you used being fairly reliable and I have also used a gas analyser probe to sniff the air in header tanks for hydrocarbons when out of test fluid.. Some times you need to rev the engine hard to get slight faults to show. Thats just my experience. I would need to convince myself before stripping out but good luck and I hope you find something positive. A cracks in the head or block will cause the same problem so need testing if you don't find any gasket issues. I see others are not convinced too.
     
  13. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
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    Ottawa ON
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    Sandy
    Well, again, thanks for more of your replies. I agree with all of you and it's obviously somewhat hard to describe every little detail in this problem. I'll try... The car had some background but the last previous owner proved himself to be not too honest.... # of issues definitely known to him and not forthcoming. I'll stop on that as I don't want to write a book! History was good until about 2008.... then the car sat, with very little time on road until 2016. I have cleaned up most of the issues, except for this irritant! I have never overheated this engine, but it has gotten pretty hot. That said, I'll never know what might have happened with the PO ownership. I've changed out coolant more times than I care to count, flushing, purging air, etc. Of note, the driver's side rad looks almost new, passenger side probably original. I was thinking maybe I would pull the rads 1st, passenger side anyway, to verify how ugly they may be.
    To 'TIM', I will attempt to refill all coolant, purge air, etc, then take it for a good drive. I will leave the inner wheel wells off, and pull out my handy dandy infra red temp sensor, and try to verify any differences in temps. While purging air after warm-up today, I looked for 'bubbles' in the tank, saw none, but then it was getting hot(100+C) and the tank was starting to burp and splash coolant. Cap had to go back on. Fans ran as normal, shutting down later when the fans had done their job, albeit they ran alot longer than expected to bring down the temps.
    All the 'tests' that I have previously have suggested good head gaskets, but gaskets are funny, sometimes hidden until apart. I'm wearing down, frustrated, and I'm not used to not being able to diag, and just guess!
     
  14. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
    328
    Ottawa ON
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    Sandy
    OK, I decided to pull both rads today, and see how bad/good they were. Took my time with it, passenger side a bit of a pain(bolts holding oil rad to water rad), but they're out!
    After flushing them thoroughly, they seem to be pretty good, not too much crap... but what do I know! LOL! Certainly someone else has spent big bucks on new ones in the past cause these are not 27 yrs old. Tomorrow am they are going for a steam cleaning and verify that they will flow properly at a reputable rad shop. Depending on time, I will remount them and go for a drive later, or Wed am, try the infrared temp reader and report back. If this doesn't clean it up then motor will have to be pulled... I'm out of options!
     
  15. Pangea

    Pangea Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2011
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    Nick
    Just a thought. Is the small bleed hose from the water jacket on top of the cyl. block to the header tank clear? They can have problems with corrosion and poor hose condition on the engine side connector. May cause air to get trapped if not clear.. Probably not the issue but worth checking as you are doing the cooling system. Mine was about 80% blocked. Ive seen plenty of it on other marques when refilling coolant.
     
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  16. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
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    Sandy
    Not sure exactly which hose you're talking about. Do you mean the small coolant hose leaving from the lower rear of the coolant tank? If so, I'll look in am
     
  17. Mats Andersen

    Mats Andersen Karting

    Sep 28, 2017
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    Norway
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    Mats Andersen
    It a problem only when driving slow? So circulation works.
    It cools when driving at speed.? Sp radiators work.
    When driving slow or standing still all comes down to the fans. You say they work properly. Did you measure or feel with your hand tve strength of the gust? Mine where a little poor. Replaced with new 15.5 incg revotec fans and the second temp approach 90 deg and fans start the temp gage is slammed back down.

    Do another check on the fans. Not just that they start but that they pull a good amount of air. They are big fans and will move lots of air when working as thet should.
     
  18. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
    328
    Ottawa ON
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    Sandy
    Hey, thanks again guys. Nick, I wondered about the condition of that hose, as it felt 'harder' than the reg flexible hose. Will replace this am while getting the rads cleaned. thanks.... Mats, your read is right on.... exactly the problem. I know the drivers side fan puts out a good blast of air, never really checked the output of the passenger side, other than hearing the fan kick in, and fitting fingers in between the rear tire and fender. (lowered w/19" tires, not lots of room) and feeling the blowing air. When pulling the fans and rads, the passenger side fan electrical connector was partly dissolved w/ lots of corrosion, so I believe (after your thoughts) that passenger fan would be running at maybe 50%.(guess from corrosion!) And, it would make sense in why it takes so long to cool back down. Do you have a part#, more info, on the fans that you replaced. Fan connection was going to be replaced today anyway. Who knows, maybe this will all pay off.... thanks everyone.
     
  19. Pangea

    Pangea Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2011
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    Nick
    As I said in an earlier post those fan connectors are prone to failure. Although mine wasn't corroded visibly, when I moved it around the fan would stop and start so something was wrong internally. Im sure the fan worked intermittently but I managed to catch it in the broken state so was able to prove it. This would always be my first port of call for a fan not working. At least with those horrible original plugs. There are some nice alternative connectors out there. Hope things work out for you without a major mission..
     
  20. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
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    Sandy
    Well, at least I'll know that the cooling system will all be in order.... by the end of today/tomorrow....
    BTW... that hose you suggested checking.... I actually replaced that in the major last year because it was fairly hard/old. Just went & checked this am... knew there was something about it when you mentioned it, just didn't remember replacing it...
     
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  21. Mats Andersen

    Mats Andersen Karting

    Sep 28, 2017
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    Mats Andersen
    This is pretty good
     

    Attached Files:

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  22. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Dec 22, 2011
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    Miroljub Stojanovic
    The hose connector on the water transfer housing on my 348 was badly corroded and looked completely plugged when I disconnected the hose from it. Had to replace the aluminium adapter with a brass one.

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  23. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
    328
    Ottawa ON
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    Sandy
    Miroljub, that's a great looking fix for some poor engineering!!!
    Today, the rads went in to get tested and cleaned up. They turned out to be in great condition..... somehow I was hoping for a problem....! Anyway remounted everything, new connectors and heat shrink everything. Tested all fan motors... all good! Pulled that hose that Pangea & Miroljub were suggesting, no problems with any corrosion, etc. I'm a bit apprehensive that I didn't find any solid problem other than the corrosion of the right fan connection. I will fill with coolant, and bleed tomorrow, then go for a drive and see. You never know, maybe the corroded fan connection was drawing big amps and turning half speed???? In any event, I'll know that the coolant system is A1...
     
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  24. Pangea

    Pangea Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2011
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    Good luck.
     

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