Was cleaning up the car yesterday getting ready to start driving her and noticed a drip of oil coming from the circled part in the diagram. I know it's not something generally touched in the oil change. Was going to tighten it, but it looks slightly rounded off. I thought I read somewhere never to take this one out... What's above it and any issues replacing? Part number is 133284 thanks. David Image Unavailable, Please Login
According to My Ferrari 348 "One common motor oil-change mistake is to attempt to remove the oil pump pressure access bolt, thinking that's an oil drain. Plug "A" above is for access to the oil pump pressure adjustment bolt. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT mess with the oil pump pressure bolt. It has nothing to do with a proper oil change. You can remove the plug without doing any harm to the pressure adjustment bolt, but DO NOT FOOL with the adjustment bolt inside. It's set at the factory, so leave it be. I had to replace that plug on my 348 when I first got it. The morons that owned it before me had totally mangled the plug. The plug is made out of brass, and is cupped on the inside so that the adjustment bolt can fit inside it once the plug is screwed in. Thanks, ernie" So yea... don't touch that one. As for the leak, others might have better advice on how to tackle it.
Thanks! I knew I had seen it somewhere. It was literally just a small drip but right now the car is pretty tight and not leaking anything. I'm guessing it's about 40ft lbs of torque to tighten? I may just try to tighten it a bit. It's about $90USD plus the crush washer.
I wonder if it's reverse threaded.. the head was already stripped and I couldn't get it loose today.. so I guess I'll deal with it at my next major. The other thought is it's cross threaded. Kinda stinks because I bought the new $90 part and gasket and wanted to replace it today when I did my oil change. Couldn't get that bugger out.
That is the cap for the oil pressure valve. If it is leaking replace the sealed o-ring (part #18). DO NOT use that plug to drain the oil, and DO NOT, again DO NOT fool with the oil pressure valve retaining nut (part #72) underneath it. There is a spring inside that gets set at the factory for the oil pressure. Mess with #72 and you risk screwing up your oil pressure. #17, the cap on the bottom of the sump pan, can get replace if it is chingered up. I also had to replace that cap several years ago, as far as I can remember it's a normal thread. It was a pain to get off as it is made out of brass and strips easily. Think I ended up having to use a stripped bolt socket, pounded onto the head of the cap, to get it to come off.
Yah I knew not to mess with anything under it.. but it was pretty buggered up and I made it worse and still couldn't get it off. Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Did that. . Gonna have to drill her out.. hence my wait til next major. It's a very minor weep from it.. doesn't even get to floor. But the fact it's rounded off bothers the OCD in me Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
If you have the new part you can look at it and see which way the threads are. I'd say it's just tight as heck from countless heat cycles and never being removed. I can't tell you how much torque I recently had to put into getting my trans dip stick plug to pop loose. Insane amounts.
Maybe we should start a support group. "Hi, my name is Mike and I'm an OCD Ferrari owner." (Is it weird that I put two coats of wax inside my headlight buckets when I upgraded my low beams?) I concur with your conclusion though-- better to leave this alone until the next major service. Just scrub the bottom of the engine with brake cleaner on a regular basis and try not to think about it.
I have a very small weep from mine also. Didn't realize it was an oring, thought it was a copper washer. My car is up on stands as I am replacing the a/c compressor at the moment, I might see if I can loosen it and replace that oring. Or I might wait till next oil change, yeah...........i'll do that.
It's a sealed washer. On the inside diameter of the washer there is a seal, what I referred to as the "o-ring. That's my fault, I used the wrong term.
btw .. this thing is impossible to get off my car. Gonna wait until the next major to have it drilled out. I have the new one ready to go but just can't get it off... it's pretty rounded off now. Tried a little heat on it, some PB juice, the ez-out socket and she's all buggered.
Old thread but I thought the info on the method I just used to easily remove the stubborn (and well mangled by the PO) brass plug would be useful to other members. All you need is a Dremel with a cutting disc and about half an hour time. Image Unavailable, Please Login I cut the "hat" of the plug all around and down to the sealing washer. In this way, the friction that is actually keeping the plug "frozen" and hard to undo is eliminated (or greatly reduced) and the plug can then be easily removed. Care should be taken not to cut through the washer and risk damaging the sealing surface of the sump. Image Unavailable, Please Login This is what is under the brass plug: Image Unavailable, Please Login What you see is the cap/plug (screwed into the body of the oil pump) that keeps the pressure valve spring under tension. The cap seen on the oil pump: Image Unavailable, Please Login The spring cap is not any adjuster of the oil pressure but it is screwed in and tightened against a copper washer. The oil pump pressure is determined only by the spring rate. There is therefore no issue if this cap is removed (deliberately or accidentally) as long as it is put back and tightened. If a new copper washer is used, it should have the same thickness as the original one in order not to alter the oil pressure. In any case, a slightly thicker or slightly thinner washer would have a negligible effect on the oil pressure.
