348 Spider Power Window Struggle

Now that I think of it I was checking the continuity of the down wire on the passenger window connector and the milspec Door side connector while it was plugged into the switch. I should have checked it with the connector unplugged from the switch. I guess I should ask how these switches work. I assumed with 3 wire and the middle being tied to ground that if you press up on the switch it jumps the top wire to the middle wire and pulls it down to ground. Same for if you press down I assumed the switch jumps the bottom wire to the middle wire and pulls that wire Down to ground. Am I correct in this assumption or do they work differently and I'm testing them with a multi meter all wrong?

 

Here's another type of Ferrari window switch (360 and 550, I recall) with only 3 used pins, but still has backlighting. Note that the two outer pins (graphically speaking) are connected to each other when the switch is not being pushed:

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The 348 spider may be similar. Note the LED and resistor.

 

So pin 5 is ground and it does pull pin 3 or 4 to ground depending on which way you press the switch. Since the switches are good and fuses are good yet I can't get the relay click on the window control box while pressing down on the passenger window switch on the drivers side what do I check next?

 

Other than putting power directly on the motor, I can't think of anything else. I don't exactly know how similar the 348 and 355 are with respect to milspec plug pin numbering, but you may be able to put 12 volts directly on pins 9 and 10 of the Window Control unit (if you can identify these pins) to run the motor directly. You should be able to get 12 volts from your window fuses. You just need bits of wire to run to your window ECU connector (car side, not ECU side) and to a good earth

Swap the polarity of the wires to get the window motor to run in the opposite direction.

 

Sorry, crossposted. Have you checked the wiring from the switch all the way to the Window ECU? Pins 7 & 8 on the Window ECU (large) plug should be the ones for the up and down signals (I just don't know which is up and which is down).

 

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Here's the Window ECU plug. Maybe you can identify which is pin 1. The female connector will be a mirror image of course.

Try to get continuity between the passenger switch (driver's door) white/green & yellow/black wires and any of the sockets on the ECU plug. This should help you identify 7 and 8 and therefore pin 1.

 

I put it all back together for the night. It's freezing out now and I'm frustrated the dealer screwed me on this car pretty good saying everything is working and yet the turn signals didn't flash (flasher was stuck or has bad solder joints because hitting it worked),
the ac doesn't work (needs new ac compressor cuz it leaks out the front seal),
the passenger side window doesn't work (has never worked from the drivers side switch),
the top doesn't work (windows don't go down like they should when opening the roof),
the parking brake didn't work (had the shoes relined someone must have left it on while driving or something),
it came with a nice scratch on the fender that wasn't in their pics in the ad.
Oh and they gave me a junk battery too.
Liars, scammers, and con men piss me off. This is why used car dealers have the rep they do. They probably made 20k off this car on trade in and didnt fix anything just lied about it and kicked it down the road to the next guy...ME


So I will start again tomorrow and:
1. figure out pin 1 on the window unit
2. check for continuity between white/green and the connector as well as yellow/black and the connector
3. check the roof micro switches.
4. check the passenger side window motor to see if it still works or not which would explain why the passenger switch does nothing now but make the window control box click.

I'll update tomorrow. thank you for all the help.

 

Ok so I decided to go test the wire locations just cuz I'm frustrated and want this over with asap. Found that on the control unit harness the pins are labeled.

Pin 7 is white/blue and driver side down. Switch side color code is opposite so blue/white.

Pin 8 white/black and driver side up. color code is same on switch side.


Pin 1 is yellow/black and passenger switch up on drivers side. Same color code on switch side harness

*I think * Pin 3 is green/white and is passenger switch down on drivers side. Color code on switch side harness is opposite so white/green.

Heres why i think that wire goes to the switch and im not certain... and now a pink wire is broken also. I have not pulled on these at all or anything. The green wire was tucked back into the rubber boot. Smh

Anyone have a pin out for the milspec harness on the drivers door?
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How do you get the pins out? Where do I get new pins?

I have a pin extractor kit but none seem to fit in this milspec connector.

 

How good is your French?

https://www.dropbox.com/t/tLHNGCaidupQ6SJG

I can't remember if anyone made an English version of this.

I haven't seen one for the Spider. The GTB/GTS isn't close enough.
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So a colour change somewhere? Or did you misidentify the colours on the switch?

If this is the large female connector which plugs into the Window Control Unit, which pin is #7? (looking at the contact side, not the wire side)

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7th on top row? (reading left to right)

Welcome to the club Even with an expensive professional PPI, I found an extra 30+ problems on my car after I handed over my money. This was from a private seller who used to work at the same airline as me, so you really can't trust anyone. Your dealer was probably scammed, too, by the original owner.

 

I did mess up the blue/white on switch side. It looks mostly blue from the angle i had it at. It is in fact white/blue same as the window control unit harness color code the passenger side switch harness is white with green stripe and window control unit harness is green with white stripe. I just confirmed these are correct.

In the first pic i have the multimeter lead in pin 1
In the second pic i have the lead in pin 7
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I found another thread on here to obtain the correct mil spec bulkhead female pins and extraction tool i need. They also have the part number for the male pins. I do not need those however. Only the wires broken on the female pin side(door side) from what I can tell so far.

The extraction tool is part # amp 305183
The female pins are amp 1-66360-2
The Male pins are 1-66361-2

I'm probably going to extend the broken wires by a slight amount and hide the connections in the boot so I only have to replace the 4 pins and not all 23 of them.

The question is will this solve all the issues??? It should certainly solve the issue of the passenger window switch down button not making the relay click in the window control unit. But will everything like the roof and the window itself actually start working? We shall see.
I'm going to test the window motor tomorrow as I said to see if thats the issue of why the passenger side passenger window switch was clicking but not making the window function.

 

I hate to break it to you but these cars were junk from the factory. Each owner over t he years have tackled problems as they have arisen. Fchat members are responsible for how good a sorted 348 can be. The newest of the sorted cars are about 30 years old and even sorted parts will fail in time.

 

Thanks!

These are the colours on the F355. I see that the F355 has a blue/white wire on pin 7, not a white/blue.

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I don't mind tackling problems on a car. The problem is that for The money I paid and to be told its perfect only to have a slew of issues immediately off the shipping truck is unacceptable. The price should reflect the quality. I should have paid far less for the car than I did and I should have been told about these issues before purchase. The dealer was not honest. The dealer tried to cover up an issue with the climate control unit throwing a code that I saw in the pics they took and out in their ad. They told me it didn't have a code so I called the the car was at to get a stalk (maybe headlight stalk) replacement and they confirmed the climate control had an error code on the screen. I would have known then that this car had many more issues than they said (because they said it had 0).

 

I will take a pic of the Wiring on the window control unit harness tomorrow so you can see the wire on pin 7. Its hard to tell but looks more white than blue. Maybe you will see it differently than I do.

 

Well, I haven't seen the real colours on the 355 recently. They could be the same... or different... it's not important. Function Vs pin is more interesting.

Someone out there has some 348 spider wiring diagrams, but they've gone into hiding

 

Your diagram shows pin 8 as grey when my harness is white/black so they are different anyway. There's no confusion about that discrepancy.

 

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Maybe a simple resistance check (initially) will see if the motor windings have burnt out?

 

You can get the at Digikey, its where I got mine. (pic from an old thread I saved) I got new plugs for both ends of wiring from ruttlands.

 

@Ferrarium I got the actual part numbers for the pins and tool from your post. The actual part numbers from the manufacturer are in the lower left corners of the bags. So I ordered a bag of 50 female pins and the tool off amazon today for 49 including shipping. Thank you.

New news... motor is ok, motor wire is broken in passenger side mil-spec connector. Found two more broken wires on passenger side besides window motor wire that goes to the door lock mechanism. I Stuffed the window motor wire back in its spot (for testing), stuffed the white green wire on the driver side and tested the passenger window from both switches (drivers side switch and passenger side switch) and the roof. Everything works as it should. So all i need to do is fix the wiring at the mil-spec connectors.

 

@quavion here's as best I can do to help the community with a pin out of the mil-spec harness door sides.
I spent the better part of my day disassembling my doors as best i could for this so I hope it helps some people out there.

I couldn't find one wire on the drivers side as youll see. pin 8, a black/purple wire hopefully someone knows where this goes.

 

Thanks, Paco!

There is an extra wire (or two) on the F355 on the driver's side for an outside air temperature sensor under the mirror, but I don't think the 348 has this (unless it's different to the GTB)?

 

I just didn't want to completely tear apart my doors to find one wire. I didn't need to tear them apart at all as I found my issues and could have not done the pin out at all. So I thought it was 99 percent of the way there and someone could hopefully fill in the blank. Although If it wasn't a Ferrari and I had more time I would have torn it down to nothing and found that last wire. With the way this car is and seeing all the issues with Ferrari's on samcrac and hoovie's youtube channels. I feel like these cars are made of glass and you touch them as little as possible as to not break more stuff.

 

On the F355, the earth for the window switches are jumped together (using black/purple wires):

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The black/purple wire may simply go to an earth splice inside the door (and are hooked up to the two window switches with different coloured wires). Were the centre wires on the switches both black?