348 starter again

I don't know if this is your problem (or one of them), but I can tell you that 348's hate starting with a lean mixture. I had to pop the blue caps off of the two MAFs and turn the screw underneath each to enrich my mixture for easy starts and smooth idles, for instance.

You'll need an Ohm-meter. Remove the black data cables to the MAF's. The outermost pins on each extreme side of the MAFs, pins #1 and #6, will tell you the resistance of your MAF. Measure your resistance first prior to turning the fuel mixture screws. This will give you a baseline.

Factory pre-set value is 383 Ohms. As you turn your fuel mixture screws, you'll change this resistance value. You'll want both MAF's to have the same resistance value, so if you set one at 400 Ohms then the other should be 400, too.

You do NOT have to reset your ECU's after these fuel mixture changes.

Fortunately this is a cheap mod/test/fix. No parts. Not much of your labor, either.

As for your starter, make sure that your gear-shift is in Neutral *and* that your clutch is depressed (this should give you a better chance of getting the starter safety switch to work).

 

If you have the bullet style connector, it will cause the no start problem with the clicking noise. What you need to do is replace it with a solid cable going from the battery to the starter.

 

Clockwise thickens your air versus fuel. Counterclockwise thickens your fuel. You don't have to turn the mixture screws very far, either. An 1/8 of a turn (45 degrees) makes a big difference in mixture.

Measure your initial resistance on both MAFs. Turn your mixture screws counterclockwise, setting both MAFs to the same resistance value while making your mixture richer...then just try to start your 348. If your engine turns more than 5 times (that "ungh, ungh" sound...count each one), you're still too lean (if mixture is your starting problem, anyway)...so adjust some more. With correct mixture, correct fuel pressure, adequate air and spark, 348's start up quickly on the fisrt time, hot or cold.

If your RPMs take forever to rev while you drive, then you are too rich. Turn your mixture screws back the other way.

If your problem turns out to not be your mixture, you can always turn your two mixture screws each back to your original setting. Also, the factory baseline is 383 Ohms.

If you adjust your mixture *way* past normal (either way, too rich or too lean), then you'll trigger a check engine light (or two). No big deal, just turn your mixture screws back the other way.

 

For this one it sounds like your ecu's need to relearn the warm up process.

Do this when the engine is cold.

Disconnect the battery for about :15 seconds then reconnect it.

Now start the car but DO NOT touch anything. Let the car warm up by itself.

Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until the cooling fans kick on at least once.


Any time the battery is disconnect you will need go through this process.

 

The CO2 adjustment is in the first picture. The second picture is the screw for the idle adjustment.

Heres a link for you to read in reguard to the MAFS
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20378&highlight=MAFS+adjustment

 

sent them my MAF and in one day they sent it back to me rebuilt to factory spec..solved a ton of starting, driving, idling problems... also check fuel injectors..I found 2 feeble ones.. remember these cars are OLD and these parts are failing and they make you crazy..

 

Was that $189 for both?

 

If I am reading the post correctly, the symptom is the motor isn't cranking over, except for some clicking noises. If that is the case, then maybe the starter soleniod isn't getting enough current, ie a voltage drop from the ignition switch all the way back to the motor. My 89 348tb came with a huge contactor style relay that was a factory fix I think. The output terminals are connected between the battery connection on the starter and the solenoid contact on the starter. The wire from the ignition switch connects to the contactor along with a connection to chasis ground. This thing is mounted on the pass side kinda behind the ignition heat sink/module. Hope this helps. Jeff

 

I don't think these are the problems based on your first post. You have a connection problem disturbed during your major service. Disconnect and reconnect every major service connect first.