I think your talking about the crank position sensors. They are used to determine were the crank is so that the ecu can fire the correct cylinder. They are located at the front bottom of the engine, at the bottom and side of the crank pully. They are really easy to change. Each one is held in place by one allen bolt. However, did you pull the codes with the engine running or off? If you pulled them with the engine off you will always get the crank sensor code. Also did you pull the codes because of a check engine light? If you didn't get a check engine light then I don't think that is your problem. Pull all the codes again, and then clear out the ecu. Then if you get a check engine light, pull the codes but this time do it with the engine warm and idling.
No, not the crank sensor. Also known as the phase sensor. On the back of the cam shaft. Commonly corrode, crack, oil contaminated etc etc. It tells the engine what stroke it's on, so it knows whether to fire and inject this time round or the next.... edit to say, I think 348 may have wasted spark, but it still only injects every other stroke.
Ah that one. Looking in the engine bay from behind the car, you will find it on the right hands side of the engine bay. It is on the back of the cam shaft cover, on the bank 5/8 side of the engine. If you look on the top of the cam covers you will see the the markings for the bank. Make sure that the connection is clean and making good contact. The connector is located on the side of the housing. If you look under the mass airflow sensor on the right you will see were. I would also have a look to see if the rear cam seal is leaking. If you have to change the sensor it's not to hard. You can remove the air box for better access. Remove the three nuts that hold the cover to the housing. Remove the cover for access to the sensor. If I remember correct there are two little screws holding the sensor to the inside of the housing. Undo those and take it out. As for checking the cam seal. If the cam seal has gone bad it will allow oil to get on the inside of the housing were the sensor is. If you have to change the rear cam seal, you can just continue were you left off with the removal of the sensor. There will be three bolts holding the housing to the back of the cam cover. Take those out and remove the housing. You will need to have the cover off to get access to those bolts. In addition to the new seal you will also need a new rear cam gasket. You can remove the sensor in about 10-15 minutes, add about another 10-15 minutes to take the whole housing off.
Thanks Ernie and all for the info. The check engine light hasn't come on since the beginning of last week. After erasing the diag. ecu, I haven't had that number code come back up.
