Here are the steps to remove the transmission from a 348. 1) Disconnect the battery. 2) Remove the air box for more work room. 3) Block the front wheels and then jack up the rear of the car. Now place jackstands under the subframe for safety. 4) Remove the rear wheels, and then remove the rear wheel well liners. 5) Disconnect the cables on the starter. 6) Disconnect the ground strap from either the transmission case or the clutch housing. 7) Undo the connection for the speedometer sensor. 8) Disconnect the connection on the top of the transmission for the clutch/break fluid. 9) Drain the oil out of the transmission. 10) Drain the engine oil. Then disconnect the oil line from the engine block. Remove the brackets holding the oil line to the side of the transmission, and move the oil line out of the way. 11) Remove the rear bumper for better access to the muffler, and clutch housing. This step isn't totally nessesary, but it does give you much more room to work with. 12) Remove the muffler/s. 13) Disconnect the inner CV joints from the transmission. 14) Disconnect the parking break cable. 15) Remove the two cross beams on the bottom of the subframe, running under the transmission. 16) Roll a floor jack under the transmission, and center the lifting point of the floorjack under the bottom inspection plate for the transmission. You can place a block of wood on top of the jack so that you don't dent the inspection plate. Now lightly support the weight of the trasmission on the floor jack. 17) Loosen the 8 large nuts holding the transmission to the back of the engine block, but DO NOT remove them yet. There are 4 on the top and the 4 on the bottom. 18) Remove the 8 nuts holding the clutch housing to the back of the transmission and then remove the clutch. 19) Grab ahold of the output shaft and pull it out. This is to disconnect it from the engine crank. 20) Completely remove the eight bolts holding the transmission to the engine block, and then move the O2 sensor wiring connection bracket out of the way. 21) Loosen the large bolt holding the top of the transmission to the crossbeam on the subframe. 22) Double check to make sure that everything has been disconnected properly, and make sure that the transmission is supported by the floorjack. 23) Remove the bolt holding the top of the transmission to the subframe. 24) Side the transmission back, away from the engine, and off of the retaining bolts. It may be a little bit tough to get it to separate from the back of the engine block as there is a seal that must be broken. But it will come off. The seal is just a big o-ring that goes around the opening for the back of the crank. 25) Now carfully lower the transmission and roll it out from under the car. Happy wrenching.
No stress, I get that way too sometimes when I want to do something fast Getting ready for build #2, Hope all goes well this time ernie
That's not good enough, go and put it back then remove it again taking some pics Seriously, nice write mate, thank you
Me or you? If you are asking me, nope. I was thinking and couldn't recall if I had posted a how to. The only thing Fatbillybob and I posted was the rebuild of the differential when I had the tranny out. So I figured for the sake of the Brotherhood I would post a how to. Anytime you can put a wrench in your hand and fix it yourself, means more money that stays in your pocket.
Me.........nah bugger that *touches a pallet load of wood* I thought yours failed Yeah your not wrong about DIY, saving yourself, the Brotherhood and myself a buck here and there Image Unavailable, Please Login
Oh geeze, if I remember correctly I think it was something like 2, 1/2 to 3 hours. The tranny comes out alot easier than the entire subframe. At least I thought it did.
Hardy, har, har, smartass. You know how things go the first time. You are double checking your tripple checks. It when in alot faster though. I was just over an hour.
D'OH! I need to add a step to the removal. I don't know why I missed it the first time. I totally forgot to mention disconnecting the shift linkage. It's now step #15. So here are the corrected removal steps. 1) Disconnect the battery. 2) Remove the air box for more work room. 3) Block the front wheels and then jack up the rear of the car. Now place jackstands under the subframe for safety. 4) Remove the rear wheels, and then remove the rear wheel well liners. 5) Disconnect the cables on the starter. 6) Disconnect the ground strap from either the transmission case or the clutch housing. 7) Undo the connection for the speedometer sensor. 8) Disconnect the connection on the top of the transmission for the clutch/break fluid. 9) Drain the oil out of the transmission. 10) Drain the engine oil. Then disconnect the oil line from the engine block. Remove the brackets holding the oil line to the side of the transmission, and move the oil line out of the way. 11) Remove the rear bumper for better access to the muffler, and clutch housing. This step isn't totally nessesary, but it does give you much more room to work with. 12) Remove the muffler/s. 13) Disconnect the inner CV joints from the transmission. 14) Disconnect the parking break cable. 15) Remove the cover for the shift linkage and then disconnect it from the transmission. 16) Remove the two cross beams on the bottom of the subframe, running under the transmission. 17) Roll a floor jack under the transmission, and center the lifting point of the floorjack under the bottom inspection plate for the transmission. You can place a block of wood on top of the jack so that you don't dent the inspection plate. Now lightly support the weight of the trasmission on the floor jack. 18) Loosen the 8 large nuts holding the transmission to the back of the engine block, but DO NOT remove them yet. There are 4 on the top and the 4 on the bottom. 19) Remove the 8 nuts holding the clutch housing to the back of the transmission and then remove the clutch. 20) Grab ahold of the output shaft and pull it out. This is to disconnect it from the engine crank. 21) Completely remove the eight bolts holding the transmission to the engine block, and then move the O2 sensor wiring connection bracket out of the way. 22) Loosen the large bolt holding the top of the transmission to the crossbeam on the subframe. 23) Double check to make sure that everything has been disconnected properly, and make sure that the transmission is supported by the floorjack. 24) Remove the bolt holding the top of the transmission to the subframe. 25) Side the transmission back, away from the engine, and off of the retaining bolts. It may be a little bit tough to get it to separate from the back of the engine block as there is a seal that must be broken. But it will come off. The seal is just a big o-ring that goes around the opening for the back of the crank. 26) Now carfully lower the transmission and roll it out from under the car. Happy wrenching.
Oy Vey! OK, OK...done! I'm starting to dig the hyperlinks combined into your step-by-step instructions (a few pics would have helped, though!).
Double D'OH!!!!! I forgot ANOTHER step. 1spdemon called me up today and asked me if he needed get the sway bar out of the way. (smacking my forehead) I said, "oh yeah, you do"! Soooooo, here is version 1.3 with the adjustments from step #17 on. 1) Disconnect the battery. 2) Remove the air box for more work room. 3) Block the front wheels and then jack up the rear of the car. Now place jackstands under the subframe for safety. 4) Remove the rear wheels, and then remove the rear wheel well liners. 5) Disconnect the cables on the starter. 6) Disconnect the ground strap from either the transmission case or the clutch housing. 7) Undo the connection for the speedometer sensor. 8) Disconnect the connection on the top of the transmission for the clutch/break fluid. 9) Drain the oil out of the transmission. 10) Drain the engine oil. Then disconnect the oil line from the engine block. Remove the brackets holding the oil line to the side of the transmission, and move the oil line out of the way. 11) Remove the rear bumper for better access to the muffler, and clutch housing. This step isn't totally nessesary, but it does give you much more room to work with. 12) Remove the muffler/s. 13) Disconnect the inner CV joints from the transmission. 14) Disconnect the parking break cable. 15) Remove the cover for the shift linkage and then disconnect it from the transmission. 16) Remove the two cross beams on the bottom of the subframe, running under the transmission. 17) Remove the sway bar 18) Roll a floor jack under the transmission, and center the lifting point of the floorjack under the bottom inspection plate for the transmission. You can place a block of wood on top of the jack so that you don't dent the inspection plate. Now lightly support the weight of the trasmission on the floor jack. 19) Loosen the 8 large nuts holding the transmission to the back of the engine block, but DO NOT remove them yet. There are 4 on the top and the 4 on the bottom. 20) Remove the 8 nuts holding the clutch housing to the back of the transmission and then remove the clutch. 21) Grab ahold of the output shaft and pull it out. This is to disconnect it from the engine crank. 22) Completely remove the eight bolts holding the transmission to the engine block, and then move the O2 sensor wiring connection bracket out of the way. 23) Loosen the large bolt holding the top of the transmission to the crossbeam on the subframe. 24) Double check to make sure that everything has been disconnected properly, and make sure that the transmission is supported by the floorjack. 25) Remove the bolt holding the top of the transmission to the subframe. 26) Side the transmission back, away from the engine, and off of the retaining bolts. It may be a little bit tough to get it to separate from the back of the engine block as there is a seal that must be broken. But it will come off. The seal is just a big o-ring that goes around the opening for the back of the crank. 27) Now carfully lower the transmission and roll it out from under the car. Happy wrenching.
It's no trouble. But it certainly would be nice to have pics for steps 23, 25, and 26. Most of the rest I've pretty well covered with hyperlinks to pics/instructions in other how-to's, but those three steps are bare.
Actually you can't completely remove it because of a bump in the shaft. All you can do is pull it out so that the tripple seals are exposed. That will disengage it from the back of the crank.
Thanks. OK, check out the update (did the best that I could with pics on hand): http://www.the348.com/tech/348.html#trannyRnR
Hey Ernie, is there a circlip or some sort of retainer on that shaft that needs to be removed before you pull to extend it out?
Yeah the clip is on the tripple seal end of the shaft. But the shaft comes completely out going toward the engine block side of the tranny case. But you can't remove it completely until the trans case is out of the car. The picture you have on #21 is the clip.
