348TS M2.7: I have the ABS and the low oil pressure light on But not the alternator light Cheked the fuses and the instrument relay: all fine Nothing happens when I turn the key all the way I am charging the battery now but it gave 12,6V Will try to check the wiring now Any suggestions?
Try first with unplugging (unscrew) the 9-pin connector at the left (looking from the back) of the engine compartment and plugging it back, repeat a few times. Both, the starter solenoid and the alternator light go through this connector. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Alarm wiring problem? http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/543737-348-startup-problem.html Do your hazard lights work, but not your normal ignition key operated lights ?
Installed the freshly charged battery by Unplugging the connector in the engine compartment Result: No change Wiggling the connector with the key on did not help Unplugging the connector made the oil pressure light go out The connector feels very 'loose', no force necessary to assemble it I had a similar problem some time ago: That was due to the alarm that blocked the power going to the fuse board I stopped that by making a bypass But could it be the alarm is now again blocking the power line from the alternator Seems unlikely
I also lost the oil pressure signal from time to time This also runs trough the connector How to improve this?
I replaced the lousy original connector with a military grade AMP pair MS3106F 20-16S & MS3102A 20-16P. Try to find this pair as it has two of its 9 pins thicker and I used one of those for the starter solenoid wire. Using a thin pin (like the original) for this wire which carries probably about 40 Amps on starter engagement is...Italian design. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Another great idea Miroljub I am working on the GTB now (new cats and cv boots) Tomorow there is a local meeting (Peer, see the dutch section) TS will have to wait until the weekend
So you turn the key, the dash lights come on, but the engine doesn't turn over? You need a multimeter or circuit testing light probe. There are 2 wires going to your starter. One is about 1/4" thick and attached to the starter with a nut. That should show over 12 volts with the key on (and probably,even with the key off). , the other wire is thin and attached to the starter with a spade connector. That should show 12 volts only when the key is turned all the way like when trying to start the car. If it doesn't, then you need to chase down the wiring path and make sure the ignition switch is ok. If it does show 12 volts, then it's the starter. Sometimes a bad starter will work briefly if you hit it a few times lightly with a hammer. Either way the starter Will need to come out (super easy on a 348). If you're handy with tools, open it up and use fine sand paper or a wire brush on a Dremmel to clean the copper contacts inside the case and where the brushes rub. Warning: retracting all 4 brushes to get it back together is a pain. If that doesn't work, see if you can get it rebuilt, or get a new one. Good luck!
Paul Thank you I read the '348 Hot start problem....FIXED' thread and realised this is probably what is the problem in my car Will check the voltages may install an extra relay and clean the starter electrics will take some time I want to go riding in the Alps first Good thing my GTB is ready to go
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a faulty connection at the solenoid - probably the spade connection referred to above. Cleaning up that spade connection solved the problem.
Checked the voltage getting to the starter motor from the key: 11,8V Made a connection direct from the battery and the starter motor worked normally I plan to install a relay with a direct feed from the battery This way the starter solenoid will always get full tension, same as the battery
Installed the relay and it fired right up Another problem solved There must be a voltage drop somewhere in the system Maybe the connector as suggested by Miroljub Will order it and install later
