3500GT Barnfind

I will check that out. Thanks once again Ivan.

 

Thanks for the information Wilfried. My ignition switch was fine prior to the rebuild. I will keep it in the back of my mind, but I still think that my positive connection on the soleniod is grounding out. I'm going to try again tomorrow. On the original solenoid, the connections were spaced away from the body of the solenoid by using two nuts. I did not use the two nuts this time....hopefully that is the problem. If the positive cable was grounding against the body of the solenoid or starter, would this cause my problem?

 

My starter problem still makes no sense to me. The wire that is connected to the grounded side of the solenoid is the positive wire. As you can see from the pictures, it was originally connected to the grounded side of the solenoid, before I had the solenoid replaced. I disconnected the ignition wire and it made no difference.
In the pictures, the large cable is positive (I just tested it with my voltmeter).
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If someone could look at their starter and confirm that the large cable (positive) is indeed connected to the same terminal as the ground strap, I would appreciate it.

 

Eugene, thanks for the response. If I understand you correctly, what I thought was a ground strap is insulated, so it is positive. This is consistent with how the starter was originally connected, prior to me breaking the original solenoid cap. It would make sense that the solenoid is installed with its orientation 180 degrees off. If the soleniod was rotated 180 degrees, the longer terminal would be connected to the positive strap and the larger positive cable. The short terminal did not have enough room for the larger positive cable to connect properly.

 

Gene, thank you very much for taking the time to help me. Thanks to Gene, I now have the starter hooked up correctly (the positive cable does not connect to the post with the strap). My ignition system has a short, but my starter engages when I short the terminals. My voltage regulator is from Germany (not stock) and I found the wires going from the regulator to the ignition switch have been spliced. I will spend some time troubleshooting my ignition problem. I am happy not to be removing the starter.

 

Gene was kind enough to call me this morning to discuss my electrical problem further. He told me that the electrical system had to get power from either the battery or the starter solenoid. My battery only has the positive wire and the ground wire coming off it. He concluded that the power had to come off the solenoid. Both the battery cable and the other large wire (not the small 16 guage wire that connects to the center of the solenoid) needed to connect to the long post on the solenoid. The other post is connected to the starter strap. As soon as I connected both wires to the same post, the car started right up.

Thank you so much Gene! The car appears to run fine. I am having it towed to the exhaust shop tomorrow. My two sons and I installed "Cool It" acoustical and heat control mat on the exhaust tunnel. I will post pictures of the installed Quicksilver exhaust.

 

I had the car towed to the exhaust shop today. They specialize in custom fabrications. I just spoke to them and they have been fighting with it all day. The original system had a design flaw. The first mount is on the floor under the driver's seat. On my car it has cracked and been welded in the past. The shop is trying to mount the system from the frame, rather than the pan. I am happy they are taking the extra time to do it right.

 

Hi Wilfried, I agree that it would be a lot easier if they provided instructions. I did not even bother trying to test fit the system. Here is a link to the company that is doing the installation....http://www.spdexhaust.com/index.html This should be easy for them. They have had my old exhaust at their shop for a couple years. I was going to have them fabricate a custom system, until Frank posted pictures of his Quicksilver system.
If you click on SPD's link, check out the Ultima GTR V12 system that they fabricated. It is a work of art in stainless steel.
Wilfried, can you or anybody else here please tell me what kind of brake fluid to use in my newly rebuilt system. Thanks.

 

The exhaust system is almost installed. The shop is taking the time to do things right. As I was leaving, they were preparing to cut the tips off the rear resonator/muffler so they could remount them at the correct angle. Is there any reason for me to keep the rusted out stock exhaust system to include when I sell the car?
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I spoke to the Power Brake Exchange and they told me to just use DOT 3 brake fluid in my system.

 

Thanks for the advice on the brake fluid guys. I appreciate it. I picked ther car up from the exhaust shop this morning and had it towed to my friend's shop. The front tire rubs on the exhaust when turned left. They will have to modify it after I get it driveable. I am a little disappointed with the Quicksilver system.
I started the car, with difficulty, at the exhaust shop. At the other shop, we could not get it started....no spark. The tootsie roll on the rear coil got extremely hot with the ignition on.
The car fought us every step of the way. The rear Koni shocks did not fit. We had to enlarge the bushing holes with a drill pess. They are installed. The front A arms are apart. The rubber A arm bushings were a challenge to press in. We had to order new bump stops from MIE. I won't get them until Tuesday. Ivan, can you pleaase tell me how to install the bushings on the lower inner control arms. Does the shaft have to come all the way out to install the bushings? If so, will it clear the frame in front? Thanks
We still have to install the pinion seal & drive shaft. We also have to fill the brake & clutch systems and bleed them. We also have to diagnose the no start issue. I am happy to be pulling the suspension apart ,so I can clean & paint all of the components....doing it on the car did not cut it.

 

Ivan, thank you for that information. Gene called me last night and told me the same thing. It would have been very easy to miss the set screw. I sure appreciate all of the advice you have given me. I really admire guys like you and Gene that collect these beautiful cars and do the work on them yourselves.