Here is a reply I received from Castrol about brake fluids Thank you for contacting Castrol. Castrol GTLMA now has a higher wet boiling point and the product label has been changed. The product formula has not been changed; Castrol GTLMA has always been a fully synthetic brake fluid. The wet boiling point has increased from 311°F to 329°F (155°C to 169°C) GT LMA is approved for older cars that recommend compatibility with Girling Brake Systems and natural rubber seals. GT LMA combines both DOT 3 and DOT 4 performance and exceeds both specifications. Both DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications call for glycol based brake fluid and address the fluid boiling point, pH, corrosion protection, stability, seal compatibility and anti-wear properties. The primary difference is with low temperature viscosity and the wet-dry boiling point. Compared to DOT 3, DOT 4 has a more stringent requirement for dry boiling point (446 degrees F versus 401 degrees F). DOT 3 performances requires greater fluidity or lower viscosity at low temperature. It is very important that you follow your owners manual and use only the product recommended for each specific application. Castrol consumer Relations
Gene and Ivan, thanks again for the brake fluid advice. I went with the Castrol GT LMA fluid. Here are a couple pictures of the car at my friend's shop. The front suspension is done. It now has new Koni shocks, new A-arm & sway bar bushings, and new bump stops. All of the components (including the hardware) were either sand blasted or wire brushed down to bare metal. The suspension components were painted in satin black. The differential seal is replaced and the driveshaft is installed with new U-joints. It was interesting...the original driveshaft bolts had been pin punched on the ends to mushroom the ends of the bolts so that the nuts would never come off. Gary (the shop owner) had to clean the threads on the bolts and nuts in order to use them again. We also installed the new Koni shocks on the rear of the car. We are currently trying to bleed the brake and clutch systems. The are fighting us a little bit. After putting about a quart of fluid through the system, we are still getting air bubbles and no pedal pressure. The components of the system were professionally rebuilt....all that I did was reinstall them. Tomorrow, thanks to Gene, I should have some new points. If the brake and ignition systems cooperate, I might get to drive the car. I will try to remember to take a picture of the driver's seat tomorrow. I am very happy with the quality of the work by the interior shop. I will be taking the car to Brian Moore Restorations as soon as it runs. I am going to have him repaint three small areas on the car. My grille and trident surround should also be done tomorrow. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You need a pressure bleeder, I suspect. Alfa Romeo GTV's are also a pain in the @rse to bleed the brakes on without one. Pete
Great coverage, and blow by blow info here, thanks. Was wondering what the Koni part #s are that you used? Also the U-joints, and where you sourced them? I had a heck of a time bleeding my master brake cylinder. Seems the replacement (non-Girhling) components did not work (and all this stuff was new). I installed a Girhling rebuild kit into the non-Girhling master, and it instantly worked! Taking the master cylinder in & out was a pain. Many Thanks, RF.
Yes the Brake master cylinders can be difficult to bleed. First they should have been bench bled before installation. Since they were not a pressure bleeder works best to get the air our. Some times I have had to reverse bleed the system, which means putting the pressure on the brake and forcing the fluid up thru the master cylinder. This also works with the clutch. Apply pressure to the slave cylinder. Of course you need to be careful you do not overflow the reservoir. Since the master cylinders were rebuilt you can also try stroking the cylinders as you apply pressure to the resevoir.
Thanks for posting this. So now its confirmed that GT LMA is the proper replacement for the old Girling "Amber" which was produced by Castrol for Girling back in the day.
PSK, thanks we tried a bleeder today...no luck. velocetwo, the car will be at Serrano...please say hi. RF, the Koni part numbers are front 82-1019 rear 82-1255. The metal bushings on the rears had to be drilled out to fit. A local driveshaft shop found the u-joints and installed them for about $80....it was a pleasant surprise. I dread removing the master sylinders and the pedal assembly again. Eugene, I will try reverse bleeding the master cylinders tomorrow. Thanks. I called the Power Brake Exchange and described our problem to them. When I told them that the brake pedal stayed on the floor every time it was depressed (even with a larger return spring), they told me to send it back. They thought that the rebuild kit they used might not have been a perfect fit for the rebore on the cylinder. I reveived the points and condensers today...thanks. Pulling the distributor apart was fun. It really is a work of art. I had to take a dremel tool to the holes on the new points where they go over the shaft...is this common? I will reassemble it tomorrow and hopefully the car will start. Here is a picture of the driver's seat. It is on the passenger side, so I don't get it dirty trying to bleed the brakes. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes the points I have replaced have all been a very tight fit. I ues a reamer to keep the fit snug to the shaft
I Looking forward to it. Should be a great year, I have been working with Brian and we should have also have a very nice Iso Rivolta and Bizzarrini display this year. Keep it original!!
Thanks again Gene. It started today after we found that the throttle was not closing all the way. When we got the car it had a mickey mouse arrangement with a metal bracket and spring attached to the cam cover and throttle linkage. I will try to get the throttle linkage cleaned up so it functions better. As a last resort, I will put a larger return spring in the original location (near the bottom of the exhaust manifold). I removed the master cylinders and pedal assembly. The lower bolt on the pedal assembly sure is a treat to remove. When I depressed the brake pedal off the car, it sprung right back (with no return spring). Wilfried told me, when I first removed the brake system, that he fabricated leather boots for the brake and clutch pedals. He told me that the replacement rubber bellows interfered with the travel of the pedal assembly. I should have listened Wilfried. I sent the master cylinders and pedal assembly back to the Power Brake Exchange. While I am waiting to get the brake components back, tomorrow I am having the car towed to Brian Moore's shop, to correct three areas of the paint that I am not happy with. Two of the three areas were previously repaired...the work was poor quality. The largest area is about 6 inches around. velocetwo, Brian does great work. I'm glad I can trust him to fix the paint issues. This picture shows one of the areas that I want to repair. It is right behind the driver's headlight. The metal is not deformed behind the damaged area. Image Unavailable, Please Login
While I am waiting for the brake and clutch master cylinders to come back, my car is at the body shop. Here are a couple pictures of the work that Brian is doing. He had a paintless guy work on the dent behind the driver's door. It is now almost completely gone. Brian smoothed out the dent behind the driver's headlight to the point where he needed almost no filler. He will be painting it tomorrow. He does such beautiful work...I told him that I would love to have him paint the entire car. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You wrote that about 2 1/2 years ago. Now as the car is closing in on the final stages, has the it taken your heart yet? Joe
Joe, YES. I have become intimately familiar with this car. I could not help falling for the beauty and incredible craftsmanship displayed in the construction of this car. From the bare hammered aluminum that I have glimpsed on the body, to the precision of the machined aluminum that I have seen while disassembling the distributor and oil filter cannister, I am smitten by the timeless elegance of this work of art. I only wish that it could remain mine forever. It will be extremely painful to part with this car.
Brian Moore finished the paint repairs today. He does amazing work. It is very tempting to have him paint the entire car. A little paint, chrome, and carpet, would bring the car up to a different level. The trident surround is back and the grill is assembled. Tomorrow, I will be reinstalling the brake & clutch master cylinders and pedal assembly. If I am able to get them to bleed properly, I might be able to drive the car home. I had to get a battery for the Maserati.....so I bought a lightweight one for my Porsche and put the Porsche battery in the Maserati. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
He does good work! Usually a camera can pick up color differences that the eye cannot see. I cannot detect where he spot painted the fender. Ivan
I found a universal choke cable that works. I was able to start the car this morning and run it for the first time. Previously, I have started it and only run it for a few seconds at a time. With the new exhaust, it sounds great. The engine sounds quiet, with no unusual noises. No smoke out the exhaust and no exhaust leaks. The oil pressure is great at idle and increasing RPMs. I will need to do some tuning work on the Webers, before it runs perfect. If anybody has advice on how to tune them, I would appreciate it. I have not tuned a Weber carb for over 30 years.
My wife's Rover is still at Brian's shop for a paint job. I will be spending some more quality bonding time at his shop after the Serrano Concours. Very cool car....what is it?
I have the brake/clutch master cylinders and pedal assembly reinstalled. I am waiting for my wife to get home, to help me bleed the brake and clutch systems. I was also able to install my grille & chin spoiler. I ordered my 80mm and 100mm vent hoses from Newco Products (thanks Frank for the info). Re-Original had the 60mm size. I am picking up the rest of the interior tomorrow. It appears that the car might actually be ready for the Serrano Concours on Sunday. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Pete. I would love to keep this car forever. The Porsche is my daily driver. When I go out in the garage, the Maserati is the one that I gaze at.
I am not going to feel quite so bad about selling the Maserati after sitting in it today with the seat installed. I don't fit. My head is hard into the roof. I can not imagine driving it more than a couple blocks in the hunched over position that I will have to drive it in. I have not driven an Italian car since my last Alfa GTV, almost 30 years ago. I remember not buying the Pantera that I always wanted, after college, because my head hit the roof in it also. I set the interior in the car to see how it looks. I still need to re-dye the areas that were not recovered. I am amazed by the differences between the driver and passenger seats. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Can't you lower the seat? I know with my Alfa 105 the seat has plastic spacers underneath and they can be removed ... Pete
