Yes, that is correct (same as 348). Many other cars use it and there are many equivalents by other manufacturers. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Confirmed. I'm running them in my 5.2 F355 right now. I also ordered the stickers from Ricambi so they look stock. 138255D COIL PACK DECAL - Ricambi America, Inc.
If it's a coil pack I would expect misfires in two cylinders on the same bank as the 355 uses a wasted spark ignition.
It happened once a few months ago and the cure was to remove and clean all the plugs which made it go away. This time, it came back with a CEL for O2 sensor. O2 sensor was changed and the CEL went away but the misfire remains. Then cleaning the plugs (one from Cyl 1 was obviously fouled) did not cure it. The plug wires were measured and all 5.7K to 6.1K ohms, so that seems OK. Next is to do a compression check tonight. And I will put a timing light on it to see which cylinder(s) is misfiring. The coil, at $50 is cheap enough to keep around as a spare.
OK, C1 is definitely mis-firing. The spark plug looks totally black, implying there is fuel but it is not burning well. Changed plug, no difference. The wire measures out OK. The timing light flashes at the right frequency, so there is spark but I cannot tell whether that is the correct spark or the wasted spark. Compression is 225 psi so that it not a problem. Next, is the coil and/or the injector.
Mitch - nothing to do with your coil but how many cranks to measure this value? Regarding the coil, yep $50 is cheap but did you try swapping side to side to see if problem moves? And, I'm sure you checked but wires from coil going to proper plugs? (Guessing yes or you would have more than one cylinder with an issue) Perhaps swapp a wire to check also (even though you measured)
Mitchel just to let you know when my 99 acted up it was the signal from main ecu to coil that was bad. It was a. Poor crimp in the main plug.
It can't be at the right frequency and flashing only on the wasted cycle. "Right frequency" = both ignition AND wasted. If only wasted it would be flashing at 1/2 the correct frequency. And if only wasted it would suggest the ECU signal is the problem. Coil either generates spark or it doesn't. ECU controls when.
Both, the firing spark and the wasted spark, come from the same secondary windings of the coil so you will either have both or none. However, the ignition coil rarely completely fails; a common failure is weak spark which can cause misfiring (especially stumbling on acceleration) but may still be registered by the strobe lamp which is quite a sensitive device. But if one secondary coil (in the ignition coil) is weak, if you have misfiring on No. 1 cylinder, you would also have misfiring on the No. 4 cylinder (see the diagram, not Ferrari specific; 348 and 355 have the Ignition Module between the ECU and the coil). Image Unavailable, Please Login
I am going to put a scope on the wire connector tonight to see what voltage I am getting at the injector.
I did not have a helper so I cannot tell how many cranks to get to that value. I let it crank over 10 times, stopped, got out, and looked at the value. I actually tested all 8 cylinders because why not? The were all 210 - 225. All four cylinders on one side match up quite well. Wires went to the right cylinders. Checked and double-checked. I wonder if old wires were leaking spark out of the side of the wire to the valve cover... Just for the hell of it, I will measure the fuel pressure tonight. Easy enough on a 95 with a Schrader valve at the end of the rail. They took that away in 96. What an *****.
Remote starter switch, Mitch... Not picking on you but this is another reason why compression values vary so much.. It's like the LD debate of 40 vs 100 PSI pressure. I need to get with JohnK on this and do an analysis as like an air compressor, there is a max value of compression. So, in your case, had you cranked only 9 times (which is my standard from a long term master tech), you would have not reached 225 (which seems high to me)
These wire are very delicate You can have the slightest "leak" in the extended part that will arc to ground causing this Not sure if you did try swapping wires to eliminate that
The F355 has an 11:1 compression ratio. The max pressure that could be reached under ideal, perfectly sealed, isentropic compression would be 28.7 x 14.7 = 421.9 psia or 407.2 pisg. But, the cylinder isn't perfectly sealed, the intake valve is not closed at BDC, and there is heat loss to the cylinder walls, piston, head, etc. valve timing probably reduced the static compression ratio to a dynamic compression ratio to about 10.5:1 and heat loss reduces the compression exponent to maybe 1.25. That would still yield a max pressure of 263 psig. And leakage will reduce it further. Ultimately, you will reach a max pressure governed by the leakage no matter how many time you crank.
Excellent, John I've never seen a factory (Ferrari 355) standard for the X number of cranks should = Y PSI I'm a bit of the belief that (similar to LD) one could almost get any value they want by altering parameters that are not a standard (BTW, not to say it would be intentional) In part, this is why a feel a non-scientific test drive of the car is very valuable
general instructions with my tester. 1) get engine warm (insures rings are expanded, minimized heat loss to block, etc). 2) Crank a minimum of 5 times, or until pressure is constant. Crank same number of rotations for each cylinder. 3) Repeat for each cylinder. 4) pressures should be within 10% 5) add approx. 1 teaspoon of oil to cylinders. 6) Repeat tests. If number change significantly from dry test, rings are bad. If numbers remain about the same but vary cylinder to cylinder, valves are bad.
John, I know from experience that 5 cranks vs. 10 will result in a large delta in PSI measured. I tend to look for the PSI value along with the delta from cylinder to cylinder (all 8). An excellent piece of data to have would be a factory new motor and X cranks = Y PSI. I might make a block - only tester which would be a cap that has a check valve to allow air in and a volume of the head chamber and check the block only for a learning experience. After I rebuild my motor and all is fresh, I will also log some data.
Swapped out the ignition wire to C1, no improvement. Measured continuity from C1 connector to ECU connector pin 17, it's there. The other pin is 14V when the engine is running so it has power. I am down to injector, or ECU
Did you see how I did that? I waited til everybody else eliminated all other possibilities, and now I look like a genius!!!! Or stooge
