355 alternator tensioner failure.

chaz,
you have PM.

 

Top news.

 

Tony,

Why did you PM? Is this info we all could use or is there a good reason to PM? Chaa... glad you got it sorted, but you really want a 911 over the 355?

Eric

 

Eric,
nothing sinister, man. I PM'd Karl Verdi's mobile phone number to Chaz and they sorted things out over the phone.

 

Thnks guys,

Chaa, your not on my ignore list....lol

$40! (I don't have the Pd symbol on my US keyboard)... That has to be a new cheap record... Congrats. Score one for Verdi!

Later

 

went to adjust tension on alternator belt and bolt just turned - appears to be striped. Is there a way to remove alternator tensioning assembly with engine in car. It is also a 1995 355.

 

I haven't taken it out on a 355 (it's on the opposite side of the 348) but I have removed it from my 348. I don't see why you can take it out with the engine in stu.

Just had a look at the diagram, and It doesn't look difficult at all. Pretty much the same deal as on the 348, but with a couple more bolts holding it in place.

 

I have replaced/rebuilt my 355 alternator tensioner/bearing with the engine in the car... !!! It is very tight but doable. The center under panel needs to be removed. Take a look and see if it is something you want to tackle....

 

Once the 3x13 nuts have been removed. Note that the top nut is a real pig to get at due to lack of space, and maybe an old 13mm spanner will have to be modded. Then the only way of removing the tensioner is to remove the studs with a mole grip, this takes very little force to remove. Then the unit comes out along with the top stud. On the 3 that i did i found that the unit cant be removed with out the studs being removed, unless the engine has been fitted with short studs. There is about 3-1/12 inches of space to work in under there, and the tensioner its self is about 3 inches and the studs stick out to far to remove the unit over them
to put it back in is the opposite, but i say again the top stud and nut is a bugger to get in. The problem is that the top stud is so difficult to screw all the way home due to the lack of space up there.
Also remember regarding the tensioner bolt: Clockwise to loosen and anti-clockwise to tighten.

 

Thanks, the studs are long. I did get lose enough to see - bolt is bent. How that happened I can not immagine.

 

Yes the adjuster bolt is what bends........ because the adjuster is tensioned.......... with the 'locking' bolt (that serves as the bearing axle) is over loose during tension. I fixed mine 'without' removing any 'studs'. If I recall correctly, one must first remove the bearing to have room to get the alloy housing forward and out.

 

Which is the newer upgraded tensioner pulley..PN148632 or PN172537 ???

SHOULD you upgrade and is it worth it???

Appears that this upgrade requires new style support bracket and different threaded pin.....is belt also different??

 

Goth your car must have some extra room for some strange reason. This is because the front bearing cant come of while the tensioner is still bolted on. This is due to the large center stud/bearing carrier that the bearing is seated on does not allow the bearing to slide of due to the lack of room. Think about it, the said large stud almost touches the cars cross member, so this makes it imposable to remove the 1 and a 1/12 inch tensioner/bearing from the end of it.
I would say Goth that maybe you should look at the condition of your engine mounts and see if they are worn, allowing more room than standard between your engine and cross member.

 

Sounds like another plus for later model 355's? When was the 'upgrade' put into place?

How do you guys set the belt tension? I'll need to reassemble mine soon...

 

$20: http://www.amazon.com/KRIKIT-BELT-TENS-TESTER-30LB/dp/B000MUTAGS/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1208272392&sr=8-1

http://www.hmc-international.com/krikit.htm


You put the krikit on one finger, reach up, press it against the belt until it "clicks," and then you look at how far the bar moved on the krikit gauge. That shows your belt tension. Loosen or tighten as desired from there.

 

I have these pictures on my data base borrowed from another site. The car it came from is also a 1995 355.
You will see clearly how the tensioner works, and whats bent. Its very simple, the single bolt screws into the rear of the threaded shaft that holds the bearing. You screw anti-clockwise and it screws up loosening the tension on the belt ect ect.
Also what i mean about how the bearing sits on the large stud, that sits about an inch or so from the cross member. Once the large nut has been removed, you cannot slip it over the large stud, its to broad.
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This is the late style bearing "assembly". Belt is the same.

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=206230

 

Not to bright when it comes to Chassis Assembly #'s but from what the Parts Manual is indicating is, that the tensioner bearing change did not come until maybe mid to late 98...........What really intrigues me is whether the newer tensioner bearing is better or just a cost effective change for Ferrari.

Maybe someone with some smarts can clear this up...lol???????????????????????????????????????????//

 

Oh i see what they have done with the new plastic type bearing assembly (thanks for posting). They include the roller bearing in the unit itself. Were as the metal ones have to have a roller bearing pushed into the centre of the pulley when changing. So the plastic one is a compete throw away unit.
So the broadness and size of the unit is the same as the metal unit. But all the above problems i have mentioned will be the same.

 

Appears so.......seems like the metal one(old style) would be better than the plastic(new style)..huh.

Any thoughts from the experts??

 

Well to say that so far i am the only one on the thread to remove 3 units from 3 355s while the engine is still in the car thus far. I just have given you my thoughts
Na joking a side, i think the reason they have done it is because with the metal unit. A bearing for the centre only cost maybe $20 from any were other than Ferrari, and can be easily pressed in with just your fingers.
Were as Ferrari can demand a hell of a lot more $$$ for a whole complete plastic cheep to make unit that can only be bought from them

 

The 'later' plastic throwaway unit is more expensive................