355 Bypass valve fixed

OK, big thanks are in order. Today I fixed my bypass valve and returned it to factory operation.

There were numerous issues:

- someone had re-routed the vac. lines - seemingly in an attempt to have the valve open all the time.

- the bypass valve was wired open and subsequently the ball on the pushrod seized, meaning when I cut the wire, the valve stayed open.

- BOTH check valves at the throttle bodies were dead.

Here is what I did:

- removed the bypass valve and tested it for leaks in the actuator diaphragm - checked out fine.

- re-routed lines according to the diagram (with further clarification from a diagram posted by a member here)

- replaced the check valves at the throttle bodies with $5 parts from Dorman ( I have used these extensively and trust them to be reliable in other applications)

- replaced some of the vacuum lines that seemed suspect ( I will take time to replace more later)

- ran the car and verified operation - works perfectly - although the bypass opens at WOT, even in neutral (which some claim it cannot do)

I am quite happy to find another item that wasn't really broken and just required some time to correct.

For the life of me I cannot understand why anyone would want the valve open at all times, it's plenty loud with the tubi / headers / HFC and the valve closed - and I love the idea of the valve opening and sound getting louder when you punch it, yet being quieter at low speeds.

I also love the idea of one less CEL.

My next exhaust may just be something custom that uses the stock muffler for quiet startup and cruising and straight pipes on bypass for "F1 sound"