Actually I calculated 14.3239*. I knew my eye was better than 3 degrees off. I guess the additional 0.6761* was due to the error in the alignment marks. So, yea, nailed it!
Hey guys. Just delivered the car back to OP. That thing screams now. We added Tubi headers, it had Tubi muffler and cat pipes already. It sounds really good. It makes a killer pop sound when you shift, it is not a loud pop, but it will make you smile. Just a few interesting points. 1) Compression was really high on all cylinders, 240 -210, that was my first clue on bad timing. 2) The cam covers were glued on with silicone. 3) The leak down confirmed what we thought, it had a bad hole masked by bad timing giving good compression numbers. We ended up removing the heads and replacing the guides and doing a valve job on this one. It had one really bad hole 45% leakage, one slightly bad at 25% leakage & the other at 10-12. When I had it apart and measured the actual guides, they were all pretty bad already but it had only started killing two valve seats. Caught it early enough that is was just guides and didn't need valves. I checked all four cams and they were 15 degrees off with no marks to reference where the pins were originally. I really don't know how they missed that bad. The marks were dead on when I was done. Here is a picture of my degree wheel, it is 18 inches and really easy to see. Need that when you get old.
A lot of people don't know how to do it. Some actually think lobe centers (really the wrong term. they are in reality measuring max lift......not the same thing) is a good way. I recently did one previously timed that way and owner was very surprised how much better when done Ferrari's way.
I'm getting ready to re assemble my motor, so I was looking at the service manual to degree the cams. I found this interesting and odd, considering the multiple threads on here about belt life.. Obviously mine is getting new belts with the motor out. On a side note, I made my own tool to torque the heads, but I still have to make something to measure the 90 degrees after the initial torque, does anyone have suggestions? View attachment 2661589
Misunderstanding the process and sounds like the set it up for zero over lap being exhaust closes at 16 ATDC and intake opens 16 BTDC.
Given that the tight spaces of the 355 cylinder head nuts, you can only get about 30 degrees of rotation. The 12 point socket on the tool can move one notch for every sweep, three sweeps = 90 degrees. The end studs can sweep a little more, but if you match the starting position after three sweeps, you have 90 degrees. If the tool is not at the end of a sweep after initial torque, then just make sure that the tool is in the same sweep angle after three sweeps. I had an electronic angle wrench and I had the added degree thingy that goes between the wrench and socket. I find my method works really well and much faster. One other tip, PAINT mark after the 90 degrees of each one, you will loose track of which one you did and you can't just check the torque to make sure. Paint mark, paint mark, paint mark.
Kent-moore makes the tool you are looking for. It is called a torque angle meter. Kinda expensive, but you could probably borrow it from your (friendly) GM dealer as it is one of their essential tools.
Snap On Tech Wrench and a number of other torque wrenches track it electronically. Not very expensive and very easy to use. The one Ferrari supplied us was $10,000. And people wonder why dealers are expensive.
Some who know me consider me a technophobe. I am not. I embrace technology that makes my life better or my job easier. This is one of those cases.
No disagreement, Brian. For a pro doing this everyday it can be a God send. But for a guy like me, the batteries would probably go dead between uses. Seems that happens with a lot of my digital stuff.
If you read the spec fine print carefully, the 90 degree spec comes with a very large tolerance. 88-91 degrees is way more than accurate enough. post a picture of your tool, I like to see what you made. I paid through the nose for mine.
Awesome. I'll post a pic next week when I make it out to the shop, hoping my gaskets will be here by then
Speaking of watches, I have watches that the battery dies in before I wear then twice. Gone back to wind ups. Easier to reenergize.
The car is running fantastic. Wade did a jam up job on the thing. Cant beat the sound from 4700 to 7000 rpm. You guys know what I mean.
There it is. Is it crude? absolutely. Made it in 10 mins from stuff I had laying around the shop. Sure I could have spent more time to make a pretty tool, but it worked. Best part is, it cost $0. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
