355 Challenge Wing Angle

fast track 0 degrees
slow track 2-4 degrees
not confirmed but as remembered.

 

The wing settings are purely experimental. There are no absolutes for your car.....each car is different and so is the driver. You just start at flat(0 degree) and adjust for your cars suspension and driver feel. I may feel comfortable at 0 degree incline on a fast track and my car may be handling at its' optimum....if you got behind the wheel of this same car you might feel better with a 2 degree incline.

You just have to drive with various angles to see which works best for you and whatever gives you the fastest lap times. Always log your data for future comparison....this would include air temp and density, spring rates, shock dampening rates, sway bar settings, air pressure, tire temps, tire diameters, toe/camber settings, wing angles,etc.

On the 355 you may want to increase the front downforce some...this will help to offset the higher downforce created by the rear wing and the balance will show at high speeds(alot more stable).

 

There is a little guage you can buy that measures angles(inclinometer)....or just put a builders level on it. When the leading edge and trailing edge are at the same height it is 0 degrees.

Greg, it is obvious you are going to need alot of local help if you plan on doing any kind of serious racing.

Downforce on the front??? Ask FBB, he races all the time and can give you some expert advice. If push comes to shove, use the front spoiler profile from the 355 N-GT car.....you'll have to find one on your own since I am not aware of any ready made units for sale. You will definitely need to upgrade the shocks and springs.....if your car is not a true CH, you will have to reinforce the top shock mounting points.

 

Guess you're goin to have to move...lol

Come on now Greg....I used to live in Tampa and it wasn't that bad of a drive to Daytona....yahoooooo....it was the drive back that was a bummer....lol

 

Hi Greg

Since you are strictly using your car for tracking I am going to give you a freebie to improve your lap times.

First, you didn't need to pay all that money for an aluminum undertray.

The stock one is fine and just needs some simple mods:

1. Duct tape the seams/joints

2. Duct tape the recessed holes where the mounting nuts are

3. This is the biggie.....fully collapse the front and rear suspension(full compression of bump stops)...now measure the ground clearance(bottom of undertray to road surface).
Subtract 1/2".....now get an 1 1/4" angle piece of hard plastic(after doing the math lets say you have 1 1/4" clearance) and attach(double side tape or pop rivets) to the outer most part of
the undertray(beginning at the cover under steering rack and proceeding to the main tray under the cockpit).......depending on your driving acuteness you should be able to notice a big
difference over the old setup.


Cheers

 

Hi Craig

The OEM undertray is not CF. AL is OK, I only use the aluminum patterns as a mold for making the composite pieces.

#3??? You can call it a side skirt if you like....it keeps the air from spilling out the sides. This is a problem and is why the rear diffuser has a right angle turn down on both sides.
This problem also exists on the nose of the car(topside)......you want to keep as much air on the hood for as long as you can without it spilling off the sides.

 

Great thread guys. Thanks for the info

 

Craig, the only reason I mentioned the OEM undertray not being CF is because of your statement about a CF undertray costing you $3200. IF you went with a CF type to save weight it would really need to be done using the dry vs wet procedure, and to my knowledge NO ONE has the capability to do a "dry" carbon undertray using an autoclave.

Do you have a "genuine" CH car???????

If you are messing up your undertray every time you track the car somethin just aint right. You are either running off the track, or you got big suspension problems. The CH cars had different shock valving,hefty spring rates(front optional springs were killers),complete suspension were for the most point spherical ball/heim joints, and much bigger sway bars. Do you have adjustable camber/castor plates w/spherical ball top shock mounts installed??
Anytime you use ground effects it is imperative that you control the ride height properly(rigtidly)....long stroke cushy jounce/rebound shocks,light springs,pastic/rubber bushings will not give the control you need.


Please post some pic's of your cars undertray,suspension,brakes,etc.

 

Sorry Greg.....Look forward to some pics

 

Thanks Greg for the pics.....looks like they did a nice job.

Any pics of the suspension and sway bars??

 

Bruce you needed a pic of a CH sway bar(ch sway bars are a few mm bigger) and brakes hope this helps, regards, vern
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Many thanks Vern. I must say that you have the absolute nicest CH I have ever seen....WOW!!! I wish I owned it...lol

Are you running the optional bigger sway bar up front?


Like your cat by-pass pipes, and those CH fan shrouds should have been put on the street cars.

Vern do you know anyone that has the CH wheel studs???...I need 10 plus the cap nuts

 

Hey Bruce, Thanks for the accolades, it didn't always look like it does now LOL about 2 years invested it getting to where it is now (that pic is about 2 yrs old). Yes to the frt sway bar those bars IIRC were part of the '98 update(I'd have to look to be sure). You should see those shrouds with out the blk paint on them what a piece of aluminum welding art work. I didn't know you couldn't still get the wheel stud caps from Ferrari they used them on the 360's also. Do not know of anyone with spares. Regards, Vern

 

LOL, Greg as I was saying to Bruce it wasn't always as clean as it is now. I disassembled that car from bumper to bumper when I bought it 5 yrs ago spent about 2 yrs going over it(labor of love I guess). regards, Vern