Hi Everbody Got a wierd problem The 1-4 engine bank Check engine light comes on for 1 second , and then turns off. Then the Slow Down light flashes for about a quarter second. This happens every 5 secs under 3000rpm, every 10secs under 4000rpm, and about every 15secs over 4000rpm. Each time it cycles the air pump relay clicks once. There are no fault codes in the ECU, and the car drives OK. Have swapped over the 2 Motronic 2.7 ECUs, and the CAT control units, but it still keeps doing the same thing on engine bank 1-4. Any ideas folks?? Bets regards Chris
Motronic 2.7 stores the error code *before* it flashes the Check Engine Light (CEL), so I question if you were checking the correct ecu for error codes. Also, those error codes will be lost whenver you swap ecus from side to side. Did you check the codes on the right side ecu or left side ecu of your car? Did you check them before or after swapping ecus from side to side?
Many thanks, but checked the codes with the Ferrari MD2 computer and the dashboard lights cycle as I said, but no error codes come up on the computer!! So it is pretty weird
Don't use the SD2 tool. Just press the red button on the right side ecu. *If you don't have the red button on each ecu, then you can order one overnight (you'll also need a cheap connecting harness wire) from Ricambi America for a few Dollars. Cheap. Motronic 2.7 will flash your CEL to tell you the error code. You count the flashes for each digit in the error code, so flash, flash, flash, flash is a 4, then a pause, and a flash would be a 1, then a pause, a flash, flash would be a 2, then a pause and a flash, flash, flash would be a 3. Hold the button down during the first half of the final long pause to go to the next code.
Many thanks for your reply, but my car is a European model, so does not have the button or the connector for a LED block. The cycling appears to almost be happening by itself, without affecting the ECU, hence why it has no fault codes recorded. Someone has suggested that it might be a fault with the passenger fuse / relay box Kind regards Chris
Disconnect both exhaust/cat ecus for a brief test (monitor cats to insure they don't start glowing red). IF your problem is non-cat-ecu related, such as a fusebox or instrument panel short, then you will still get your SLOWDOWN warning as before...even though the cat ecus are disconnected. If you do not get your SLOWDOWN light with your cat ecus disconnected, then you can rule out a fusebox short or an instrument panel short. Reconnect both exhaust/cat ecus and concentrate on Motronic and exhaust ecus in that case.
Hi Chris, I am having the exact same problem as you had: Check engine and Slow down cycling in a weird, but steady frequency, just like you described. I'm curious what the solution was to the problem, cause I'm clueless. Thanks a bunch, Stefan (Switzerland)
If you see your CEL and SLOW DOWN lights come on simulataneously, then go off at slightly different times but then cycle back on together again, then that's typically one or both ecu relays that have failed. A simple replacement.
I have the opposite problem - I never see my check engine light! I went for emissions inspection today and they pointed out when I turn my key to 'on' that light doesn't turn on (even briefly) and I think it should. Are there 2 check engine lights, one for each bank? Should they at least turn on when you start it up? Same question with sport mode - light never comes on. Would this one cycle on at start up? So the question is, could I have some lights burned out behind the instrument cluster? Also should note I failed the emissions test, they couldn't get a signal through the OBDII port. Anyone else have this prob on '99's? Thanks!
CEL's do burn out (of course, unscrupulous sellers sometimes remove them, too). OBDII ports on 355's had a dealer fix for emissions, but should work if your car is running during the test (or alarm is off).
Take your car to an FNA dealer, and they will add a ground to one of the pins, that will fix the problem. (It is a factory recall performed for free, and takes 10 to 15 minutes) Added benefit, you can then use any OBDII scan tool on your car.
Thanks No Doubt and F355 Spider; I've actually already had my gauge cluster off to fix the F1 indicator, second time will be a breeze! And will call the dealer next week for the OBDII fix. ok one more related question - what do you guys use for reading codes? Is there any software that I can use on a laptop to connect and read codes or sensors? For my STi there's free ECU logging software to read every sensor in the car. Any such thing for Ferrari? Thanks again!
I've got OBD1, so I just press the red button. You need an OBD2 scanner. They are cheap. This one is $30: http://www.amazon.com/Button-OBDII-EOBDII-Auto-Scanner/dp/B000LEQOK0/ref=sr_1_10/103-9638582-9394260?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1182569697&sr=1-10
Hi guys, I'm still having the issue. To be very precise: 1) Right Check engine goes on 2) about 1 second later, Right Slow engine flashes on 3) Both go out immediately accompanied by a 'click' (relais) So, I've first been to Foitek in Zurich (official dealer) who examined the car (and charged for this), but claimed that it had something to do with the alarm that was built in in Holland. I don't get how the engine check lights may be triggered by an alarm, but OK, they are the experts right. At least they could confirm that the engine was running ok and no danger of damaging by continuing to drive. So, when back in Holland, I had the alarm company take a good and hard look. However, it turned out that (according to them) the alarm was not at fault. And I believe them as the problem still existed after the alarm was taken out of the circuit completely. So now, after two expensive investigation bills, but no resolution, my only hope is my trusted specialist in Holland (Forza Service). But I must say I am getting pretty annoyed by this! ANY tips and experiences very welcome. Btw, not very happy with Foitek: Apart from an aparent (still to be finally proven) misdiagnosis, they also fixed a stuck window (replacement of engine and levers), but failed to put back all the screws properly: some fell out of the door, some where missing and one was hanging out half; had I closed the door, it would have severely damaged the paint job on the side skirt / inside. Cheers, S.
I suspect that everyone agrees that the "Click" you are hearing is a relay. Since you may have a Euro 355, I have to ask if you normally see a Check Engine Light (aka "CEL") when you turn your ignition key to Run (not to the Start position)? If it was me, I'd switch the left ECU relay with the right ECU relay. If the cycling lights switch sides, then you've found your problem.
Hi Chris, Did you ever solve this ? I have the exact same symptoms with Cyl's5-8 on my car ('95 Motronic 2.7 Manual GTS). Jon.
I had the same issue for years - swapped the ECUs - had everything checked - changed fuel types - no codes - no issues with how the car ran - no consistency/correlation with regard to weather, RPM, gear, etc. Literally chased this for years - Finally when my 355 was in for her major last summer they had the time to really dig in - My tech found THIS in the engine control unit wiring harness - fixed it an WaLa! No more flickering/cycling lights!! Might not be the case for you guys but the symptoms described are almost identical so something to check - 1995 2.7 GTS - Cheers Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Scott. Wow, that was an eagle-eyed, skillful tech to have found that. The ECU harnesses on my car are shrouded with a thick black plastic covering and any pinches should be visible externally. I have swapped ECU relays over - no change. Was that wire cut through completely do you know? I can't really tell from the photo. I should also add that my CEL/Slowdown flickering is very intermittent - no pattern to speak of other than the 5-8 CEL flashes for a second, followed by the Slow-Down light very briefly, then off. No engine fault codes are ever logged. It occurs at random times throughout any drive, does not affect engine performance, idle or economy but it does seem sometimes to be triggered by rough road surfaces. I've even seen it slamming the drivers door shut !
EXACTLY what was happening with me - to a T - The wire was crimped and exposed as I understand it - by wiggling the harness he was able to replication the condition - then he dug into the wiring harness and found that - here are a couple other pictures if it helps - The fact that we are/were experiencing EXACTLY the same situation makes me think the ECU wiring harness is at least worth investigating - Hope this helps - Best of luck - I KNOW how flipping annoying it is - To this day when I turn on my turn signals I get nervous that the lights are doing their "dance" - so glad it is resolved! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It's hard to make out the wire colour, but it could be ignition power to the ECU (and other components of the engine management system). Perhaps the reason why you didn't get a code is that the ECU simply thought that the ignition had been turned off (momentarily). @308Jon ... You can do resistance or voltage checks on the wire. Also, check the ECU and inline plugs (in the engine bay) for contamination and bent pins. An inline plug is shown in @Shorn355 's photo (near the suspension struts on each side of the engine bay) Image Unavailable, Please Login Wiring diagrams available if required.
Hi Ian, Thanks for the reply. I was wondering about the colour and purpose of that wire too, it looks green to my eyes, but also seems to have a black shrink-tube around it - possibly with an inline component (diode?) further up the wire, or perhaps evidence of a previous repair. Are you referring to Motronic pin #3 or #37 (both are 'green' according to the info I've pieced together - haven't measured the voltage/resistance there yet, but will do. I'm only just discovering how poor the wiring diagrams are in the WSM, so if you are able to help with a better diagram for a 1995 UK 2.7 GTS manual, that would help me a great deal! I have pulled and examined the Motronic plug and all pins look good on the connector and all pins on the ECU appear good too, no corrosion dirt or damage. Gently wiggling the harness at the ECU plug and along its length with engine running can't (yet) induce the fault, but this is certainly my area of focus based on Scotts experiences. One thing, to my mind, doesn't support the 'intermittent loss of +12v feed' to the ECU theory though - surely if the ECU were de'powered, there would be a period of time before the ECU came back online that would drop all fuel/spark events on Cyl's 5-8. There is no discernible change to the running of the engine when the CEL and Slow-down lights flicker.
It may simply be a big solder joint or splice with shrink tube/thermofit around it. Here are the diagrams for the left bank of the 2.7 car: https://www.dropbox.com/t/QrQwp5K8moyyc7uD https://www.dropbox.com/t/XZCRRqZHxuTtAIOL Links expire in 7 days. Unfortunately, we recently discovered that the pin numbering on plug 41052 in the OEM wiring diagrams doesn't match the car. Without pulling someone's car to pieces, we can't resolve this issue. Plug 41052 is the interface between the Left Bank Motronic ECU and things like relays and power sources. A valid point. This is assuming there are no big capacitors in the ECU to hold some power long enough to keep most things running. Also, the damaged wire may have been producing a variable resistance rather than a total loss of power. Did you find the smaller, inline plug shown in Shorn355's photo? (i.e not the 55 pin Motronic plug)
