355 door panel removal - Help please!

Check this link:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99637&highlight=355+door+panel

Just did it and no big deal. Had it off and back on inside an hour.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the post ... I just had a right door speaker go (4/20)and was wondering the exact same thing. Wasn't sure any of these posts really said how to do it but I printed everything out and I am going to try tonight.

 

I wish I had better news but I did the speaker swap and the head unit and bottom line.....it still sucks. There's no substitute for larger speakers and a subwoofer. Unfortunately, there really isn't anywhere to put those without hacking up the interior. I'd love feedback from anyone that has had better luck or found a way to shoe horn larger speakers in.

 

there are shallow mount subs by a few mfrs. look at earthquake subwoofers, only 2" depth required . i have the 8" model ,not bad , but the 10" has lower freq. range.
http://www.earthquakesound.com/subwoofers.htm

 

Hi Gordon, guys,

I happen to be in the final stages of my stereo install, replacing the door speakers and the dash tweeters, and decided on installing an 8" sub in the passenger footwell. Don't discount this location just yet, especially if all you have is an occasional passenger and able to tolerate a loss of around 3.5" of legroom. For me, it was an acceptable compromise, as I really did not want to mess up the interior. It really is not that bad, just have the passenger seat positioned all the way back.

I constructed a custom cabinet for the sub, to fit exactly into the footwell. I bolted the whole unit using wing nuts loctite-d to long threaded studs, which in turn is bolted to two nuts I epoxied to the fuse box cover. I purchased a used fuse box cover on ebay for this purpose, so I don't have to drill into my prestine original cover. So the install is completely reversible, without leaving a trace. I can easily remove (<2 min) the sub enclosure (if say I really have a long legged passenger, or if I don't want the extra weight, etc.) replace the rubber mat and it is back to original. And if push comes to shove, I can easily reinstall the original cover and it is like nothing happened.

I already had the components just lying in my garage, taken off another car I had just sold. But if I were to buy another sub, I would explore the Earthquake units mentioned above, as you can make a shallower enclosure and gain more legroom.

Here's my component list, not necessarily top of the line, but definitely world's apart from the OEM system. They are also about 3-4 years old, as I have said they were taken off another car:

Diamond Audio component speakers with 6.5" mid-bass, and 1" dome tweeters
Diamond Audio crossover
Eclipse 8" long throw sub w/a 3" voice coil, 200W (http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/toys/more_stereo_kit_components_eclipse.cfm)
Precision Audio 400W 4-channel amp, with the rear channels bridged to supply 200W to the sub
RioCar/Empeg Mark 2a headunit, with a 30gig hard drive (my favorite!!) (http://www.empeg.com/)

Some tips on the construction of the sub enclosure:

1. Subs perform better the bigger the enclosure, but in our application, we are extremely limited. So just make it the biggest possible size you can in the space available. There are formulas that you can follow (see the links below if you are so inclined) but since we don't have much of a choice here, I think the key is choosing a sub that will have decent performance even with a smaller enclosure. Don't even try to achieve neighborhood-rattling bass unless you want to dump the passenger seat altogether <g>.

2. A sealed enclosure is easier to construct, but you have to make sure that the enclosure is totally sealed. If you are more experienced, you can dabble with tuned ports (aka bass reflex), but I think it is too much trouble. Check out the links for more detailed explanations.

3. 1/2" MDF (medium density fiberboard) is the most ideal material to use, and it is easy to work with, compared to ply wood. But it is not the lightest. Combined with your sub, you can easily add 20 lbs. I only weigh 143 lbs., so I figure I am already a bit ahead of the average owner (Ha-ha! No offense intended!). Now that I have the mold, I am considering making a carbon fiber version of the enclosure, but that would be another chapter.

My last step is to make some sort of cover/foot rest to hide and protect the sub. I am thinking of having an aluminum panel CNC'ed with holes, in much the same style as the gas and brake pedals. Similar to the aftermarket aluminum panels that I have seen elsewhere.

I think the sound of my system is really good. Like I said, it is not earth rattling bass, and will probably not win any sound-off competitions, but at moderate volumes the sound is very detailed with excellent bass extension. The head unit also has a 20-channel parametric equalizer, and a bunch of other neat features, that allowed me to finely calibrate the sound, using test tones and a sound level meter.

Anyway, here are some links if you care to dig into it a bit more, and some photos. The carpeting I used to finish up the sub enclosure isn't an exact match, but when I put the cover plate on, it shouldn't matter.

http://www.the12volt.com/
http://www.termpro.com/articles/buildbox.html
http://www.termpro.com/articles/subwoof.html

Hope this helps. Happy to answer any questions.

Cheers,

Alex
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login