355 Door Panel Removal - How To

Nice work, big thanks. My passenger panel is rattling, it's the speaker cover (if I lay my hand on it, it stops). I need to pull the one to take care of it. This is a HUGE help!

See you in Richmond in two weeks! -J.

 

weird ...the first job of the winter for me was to fix the rattling windows in both doors but was wee bit wary of taking the door to bits ...not any more !! Appreciate if you could pdf this to me....sent pm.

Also if you have (or anyone else has ) taken pictures of how the windows should look if running and sitting properly. Mate says all i need to do is put the window back in the runner clips...

Anyways thanks again for great write up at the perfect time ...

Regards
Kevin

 

Finally got around to this one, and you were exactly right, the bolts are the back had come loose. A bit of loctite and I should be quiet for the duration. THANKS!

 

Can someone send me the pdf on how to get to the windows?

Thanks

Rorie

 

Excellent description for removing the 355 door panel....just last night I heard bolts fall inside the door when I was opening it from the outside. I'll need to use your directions to look in there and find out what happened..thanks!

Tim Greenshields
Greeley, Colorado

 

Man that makes a refreshing change to get some one post a genuine thankyou. Manners can be a little short around here at times. Nice one

 

thanks so much for this help

best regards from germany
Frank

 

I know this is old but it is such a helpful post!

 

This is indeed a very helpful post. As a small addition to "attachment 701882". The top Philips head screw securing the narrow trim screws into a 'thin tin' plate. Over time the hole in the plate enlarges making it impossible for the screw to tighten up (or snug down). The screw will ultimately just spin in the hole and eventually back out. - causing damage. Wrap the threads with 4 - 5 turns of plumber's Teflon tape. 3k miles later it remains tight. The screw is an obscure (in the US) #4 x 3/4" Oval Head sheet metal screw so there is no "just a little larger" substitute.

 

So, I decided to take my interior door panel off as I had some rattling in the door and also knew the speaker just didn't sound good at all. Not that I listen that much but wanted it to work properly. Of course, there is a thread with a great description and pictures. Just enough so that I understood everything so a big Thank You. It looked like the pictures were enough, so I did take a few pictures of the speaker, so that other owners can replace the speakers themselves and get the right speakers. The speakers are 6 1/2-inch round and the depth from the back of the magnet to the top portion of the frame is 2 3/4 inches. The actual size of the woofer cone is 5 1/2 inches if you were going to repair your woofer. I will repair mine as a backup, but operational original speaker. Here are some pictures of the speaker and the dimensions. It should also be noted if anyone cares that you can see the speakers were made at the end of 1997 and my car was made in April of 98.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I will be ordering new speakers but will fix these. It was $28 including delivery with new surrounds and glue etc. I did it before on dare I say some old Blaupunkt speakers in a Porsche 928S Euro. They actually came out OK. I should be better this time around. Again, thanks for the pictures and write up on the door panel removal. It really helped as the few things that you might not know are as follows; 1. Once the lower armrest is unscrewed etc. in order to remove you slide toward the front of the car. Your instinct is to pull it out, which is wrong and will damage it. The other is the trim piece at the rear door edge that is held on by I think it was 3 very small screws with washers. It will still stick on after the screws are removed and once you gently pull/pry it off it reveals 1 small additional screw.