355 Engine Height

Does anyone know the height of the 355 engine to within an inch or two? In other words, if the engine were sitting on the floor (WITHOUT rear suspension) what is the distance to the top of the throttle body air boxes (which I believe are the highest point)?

Trying to figure out how high I would have to raise the car, on a four post lift, to remove the engine/sub-frame assembly while using a rolling engine cradle. Ceiling height is "limited" in my garage.

I would first remove the rear bumper which would probably help to reduce how high the car must be lifted, somewhat.

 

I have my engine on a dolly at the moment. The surface of the dolly is 10.5 inches from the ground, and the top of the plenums are just under 38 inches from the ground, making the engine 27.5 inches tall. That's without the cradle attached; I think the top of the cradle might be either the same height or slightly higher.

Be careful about making a super low dolly if you have clearance issues. If it's too low you'll find it very difficult to undo the 6 cradle bolts on the right hand side.

 

Thanks very much for the reply and tip Richard. I wasn't planning on making my own cradle but may have to if the one I'm considering is too high.

 

If you take the wheels off you can also lower the engine as you raise the car if you use a hydraulic engine dolly like sears sells for 150 bucks.

 

Was thinking of the StickyRX engine cradle, if it's built, but it may be on the tall side for my limited lifting height (due to low ceiling).

 

A lifting table lets you make small adjustments. This really helps when reinstalling.

 

yeah, that's certainly a plus. probably can't make reasonable, small adjustments trying to raise or lower a four-post (or any other) lift.

 

This was my thinking as well.

Grant what have you seen for $150 that will do the job.

I've seen a 650lb unit from HD for 350 and then much more expensive ones with higher capacity.

Does anyone know what the whole engine out unit weighs?

 

I think thats what I paid for it. I will try to find pic.

1500 lb motorcycle lift at sears

http://www.sears.com/pro-lift-hydraulic-motorcycle-jack-1500-lb/p-00914148000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=30&blockNo=30&blockType=G30

This is what I have used twice.

 

Thanks Grant. That is certainly the least expensive one I've seen with that capacity. The others have a table like platform but I'm sure you could figure something out on that one.

 

You could certainly make the uprights less tall.

I have a motor out now - if I get a chance on the weekend, I can give you some basic measurements but my heads are off so you will need to add to the dimensions I provide.

The hydraulic tables are handy. I helped Mark (gooble) come up with some out riggers to bolt to a table to make it more safe and that worked well for him.

For me, having a 2 post lift, it was not needed.

 

I was thinking of much lower profile casters but I'm not sure there are many options that would still be strong enough (heavy duty) and that swivel. On the other hand I wouldn't be that keen on lowering the engine cradle (yours, for example) as I think it's probably a good height for working on the engine, once it's rolled out, and the big casters should certainly make it easier to move around.

Just missing one measurement now. Not easy for anyone to supply unless the are just about to pull their engine. Wondering how much higher you have to lift the car to clear the engine/sub-frame to allow you to roll the assembly backwards after disconnecting everything. Removing the rear bumper first should reduce how high the car must be lifted by a bit. I'm far a way from my car for now so I can't run into the garage to make some good guesstimates.

 

Yes, one thing people don't seem to mention is working height. I have zero interest to lay on the ground to work on my motor. It's much better to stand and it's nice to have access to the underside too - A lift table will block underside access.

What is your ceiling height in the garage?

 

Here are a couple pics I have that might provide useful references
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Another
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Yeah, underside access is definitely a plus that a lift table doesn't allow.

Well, garage and car are in a different country but I think the ceiling height is 2.5 meters (around 8 feet 2 inches). Track height of the 4-post lift is probably at least 5 inches.

 

Nice shots and nice garage/shop set-up you have there

 

Here is a photo of my engine on the stand and you can see the car was lifted higher than needed - my lift goes 6' high. My ceiling (prior to vault) was 120" (10 feet). The car would go full height prior to vault but it was too close for comfort.

I plan to put my project car back on the lift when the weather gets better so I may be able to provide you better info at that time. I think you could do a stand like mine (perhaps as-is) or just a bit shorter.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Thanks Dave. Great mods. you made for ceiling height. I don't have a garage door opener in the lift area so I can't gain anything there and the ceiling is steel reinforced concrete so there's no "play" there either :-( I'll never be able to stand under the car - just roll around underneath on a low-profile mechanics seat.

PS. love the floor tiles

 

My pleasure. Regarding the tiles - I hate them They looked nice when new but too much crap gets under them. I would never do them again and would like to just do a textured epoxy but the idea of moving all the crap out of the garage to do it is daunting to say the least.

 

Good to know. I probably need white epoxy so I can easily find all the little stuff I drop and to help reflect a bit of light to the underside of the car.

 

That's not my garage. That's a guy in the UK on a FB group.

I am in the planning stages of doing mine with a 4 post lift so your concerns mirror mine.

I like the hydraulic table/lift idea for more control as opposed to only the car lift alone. The ability to raise it to working height is great as well. The underside of the engine is readily accessible when installed in the car so I don't see that being a negative to the table top.

I'm still curious what the whole mass weighs. I found a weight of the engine online of 168K. That's without the trans, wheels, subframe, etc. I would think

 

In retrospect I guess the garage didn't have the "American look" so much along with the interesting red hydraulic table... or whatever it is

I think with some clever mods. to an engine cradle you could attach some inexpensive bottle jacks at the bottom on all four corners to have some very fine adjustment capability.

So... we need to find someone that has his engine/sub-frame out, owns a gantry crane and engine cradle and four corner weight scales. Then place the engine cradle on the four scales and lower the engine/sub-frame onto it. Should give a real accurate number. Now where do we find that person??

 

The car weighs 3000. A good assumption is 1500 for the engine and subframe. Finding a cart to handle 1500 won't be an issue as that is not much for a hydraulic table.

And, underside access and having the car higher is very helpful to removing the subframe. I've done it so I have experience. Again, laying on the floor works but it's not how I like to work and owning 2 cars means I will use the tools multiple times.

 

Do you think the butt-end of a 355 hanging off the end of a four post lift (bolted to the floor) and say lifted three or four feet in the air or higher, is iffy or dangerous? It works fine with two post lifts so is there anything I'm missing doing this with a four poster?

Maybe strap down the front wheels to the four poster tracks for some added security/peace of mind...