355 Engine Light Reset

Douglas- what you need for yourself is an ODBII code-scanner that will reset your error codes. BUT the trick is the pin out of the 355 ODBII connector requires a jumper to be installed. This has been covered quite a bit in previous threads- search the technical q & a forum, as well as 355 forum, for "ODBII" and "SD2" and you will find a wealth of information.

I hope this helps some- it's still confusing!

Eric

 

just a note, in case you did not know. took my 98 355 spyder in for service on friday and he ran the computer to see if all my updates and recalls were done and told me the recall for the obd2 needed to be done and would be done under warrenty(free) hope this helps and good luck

 

I have had the Innova 3100 for the last 2 years, no jumper wire needed.

Just make sure the engine is running when you are doing your scan/reset and your good to go.

 

It is super easy to use: Just make sure the car is running and plug and play.

The "P" zero codes are generic and not manufacturer specific. These codes are included in the book.

The "P" 1 codes are Ferrari specific and you are going to have one heck of a time terying to get those.

After you clear the codes your OBDII goes through a cycle that could take up to 200 miles as it looks for a sequence of events (ie, idiling, acceleration, crusing, etc). After it has gone through its diagnostics, is when you will see the CEL on again if there is a problem.

After you pull the codes make sure to write them down. If you are receiving catlyst related codes repeatedly, you may have some disinegrated cats.

Ask me how I know

 

So the thermocouples trigger the slow down light as it indicates an over heating cat.

The CEL (Check Engine Light) AKA; MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is controlled by the OBDII and is scanned and reset with a tool like the Innova 3100.

There is also a CEL code for cat not at operating tempature.

I personally did not have a problem with the thermocouples or their connection. I had a problem of my cats disinegrating which is a common problem on the 355.

With the messed up cats it triggered sevral codes so I brought it to the Dealer and told them it was also rattling ( a tell tale sign). I ended up getting my cats replaced under the 8 Year Federal Emissions Warranty.

Tell me more of this "nusance code" ? In order for the CEL to come on it needs to see a problem several times before ot stores it in the computer.

Some codes can clear themselves if it doesn't reoccour. How did they deduct that it was a "nusance"?

After working with this for a while you will be a resident expert. I had to give the Tech at the Dealer all of my information and I am not even that smart

 

No problem sounds good.

Here is a tip on the intermitent light: You can hook your 3100 up to your car (and even drive with it hooked up). It will automatically do a scan and will give you the code before it trips the CEL. That code is the one that is giving you the problem and you can use that to further investigate if there is anything going on.

Keep us posted.

 

I have had a smiliar situation onmy F355 as well. My check engine light came on after the dealer replaced the cats with rebuilt ones because it failed smog. The light continued to come on. I have an Auto x Ray scanner and pulled the code and reset several times. It was always the ineficient cat code. They switched out the cats 3 times with the same result over the last several months. This last time they went with OEM cats and no light so far. I now have a famous air pump whistle that I never heard before. I am guessing that a fuse or relay was broken, the cat was never reaching temp on start up or low RPM cruise speeds causing this delemna. The Service Manager is unanware of any work related to the air pump being done. I'm guessing the tech found it and did not say a word.

A word of warning to those driving with the check engine light on. When the light is on the comptre is running in what is called Open Loop. This means that the engine is running on preset settings which is designed to allow you to limp back to home or the dealer. Running with the engine light on for an extended period of time can cause premature Header or Cat failure because of the retarded timing or rich condition that may exist.


Regards,

Glenn

 

The connector is in the cabin, under the dash, just right of the steering column, just above your right knee when you are in sitting in the driver's seat. To view it you will need to lay up side down with a flash light. After I saw it the first time I can now connect it while I am sitting in the driver's seat jsut by feel.

The beauty of the Innova (or really any other scanner) is that you can see the code before the CEL comes on. On any PENDING CODE, the OBDII need to see the trouble code 3 times before the CEL comes on.

BTW, if you reset the codes the OBDII the car needs to go through a "Driving Cycle" before you can test for the Calfornia Inspection. The system can have 2 systems not reading to test in California (I remember 7 total for the OBDII 355) so you would need 5 of the 7 to test.

If not the Tech will tell you that your cat is not ready.

This makes good sense in that if you reset your CEL and the system need to see a code 3 times before tripping, then one could reset there CEL and test right away with no CEL. That is why the State hooks on to your OBII connector to make sure that the car is "ready"

 

OMG our cars are twins!

Same thing happened to me: But I diagnosed the entire thing by myself. Had the code for inefficent cats, went to the OEM under 8 year Federal Warranty and had FNA replace at zero cost.

I found the blown fuse for the air pump and relaced. That POS air pupm sounds like it the fan is scrapping the housing as it slowly winds up to speed. What a frickin joke.

Anyway all is well now and my car is awesome!!

I put on new plug wires, plugs, and changed my trans fluid to Swepco 201.
Vroom, vroom...Gosh I love this car even more now!

 

I took the pump apart this weekend and found that the clearance was so tight any wear in the bearing or bushing will cause it to rub. I used a #11 exacto blade to clearance the fan from the housing. The noise has been cut in half at least. I am going to take it apart again and clearance some more. I think that when it is under pressure it makes more noise. I have no idea what the cost is for this thing, but I'm sure it aint pretty.

By the way Los Gatos is where I had my car as well, in regards to the engine light. I too was told to drive the car until I corrected Andrew and told him the probable outcome as a result. They stood behind the car after I won the arguement, but I am not convinced they are on top of Ferrari's. They lost my right side engine bay cover and claimed it never had one. They did replace it in the end, but working with them has been frustrating in the least.

My friend has used SF Ferrari without any issue, and I hear their are independents in San Ramon and Sacramento that are pretty good as well.

 

That is a totally unacceptable level of "service", if you can even call it that.

 

It would take me an hour to type my total experience to date with them. I bought the car summer of last year and it has literally been in their shop 2-3 months of this time getting the catalytic problem corrected and a smog. It all started with them selling a car that did not have a valid smog, and then failed when I took it to them for a new smog. Because of this they were bound by law to fix everything relating to the emissions. This consisted of the bypass valve, right header, and new cats. They tried to get me to pay for everything besides th cats, but I won the arguement and they did do this to their credit at no cost. They then replaced the cats with rebuilt ones instead of new. This was done all without my initial approval. After it is all said and done, Andrew has given me a verbal warranty that if the cats fail again as long as I own the car he will replace them again free of charge with Hyperflows.

In my far past life I was an ASE, Smog Licenced, Tech so this experience has helped me to determine I will do most of my service here on out. I am buying a 4 post lift for my garage prior to doing the 30k service myself.

Forget the money, I can't take the frustration!

 

I feel the pain. I had list of the PO codes (generic) and P1 (F-Car spefic) during my conversation with the Service Writer. Their position was that they were only going to replace the cats and nothing more because they heard a rattle. The down stream O2 sensor was frozen in the cat so they did give me 2 new O2 sensors.

As you know the codes give you a clue or allow you to use deductive reasoning why it would throw that code. Talking to them is like you are talking Greek. They don't really care as it is "wam, bam" you are out of there.

Agreed, doing the work yourself ensures that it is done right. I hate the 9-5er attitude and the Dealer hitting you for a buck fifty an hour for sub-par work from a 20 year old flunkee. It really rubs me the wrong way.

 

I'm up in Vacaville. When weather gets better we ought to get together for a drive and hope our lightsd stay out!

Glenn

 

Sounds good, I am in Danville but I go to the Wine Country a lot in the Spring time.

Last 4th of July I took my 355 up to Incline Village in Tahoe. I went over to South Shore and the median age was 19.50 so I played some cards and left.

Best news: I won some money and my F-Car came out without incident, and the light stayed off

My wife laughs B/C I keep my scanner in the trunk in a zip lock bag..Ready for action.

Cheers

 

Funny you say that. We spend the 4th at Tahoe in the Key's and I saw a red 355 on the main drag by the Casino's. I'm guessing that was you. You can make your wife laugh again because I will also have my scanner with me in the trunk, just in case. Less room for wine, but piece of mind is priceless. I also think that if we have our scanners with us, we'll probably never see another check engine light!

Cheers!
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