355 Engine removal | FerrariChat

355 Engine removal

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by RF128706, Sep 24, 2004.

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  1. RF128706

    RF128706 Formula Junior

    Apr 8, 2004
    280
    Anybody out there able to send/post the engine removal procedure for the 355 ? I've got the WSM but it does not give the specific procedure for dropping the engine. I'm thinking of a winter project along the lines of CARGUY's TR engine refurb.

    I've had a good look and it seems straight forward, disconnect ancilliaries, a dozen or so bolts and 'hey-presto'. Is it really that simple ?

    Also, can I do it on the floor ? I don't have a car hoist, but will buy an engine crane.

    Any info much appreciated...

    Thanks guys.

    R.
     
  2. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,614
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    To drop the engine out of the 355 is just about the same as for the 348.

    So here you go.

    1) Take the car to a shop that can evacuate the freon from the a/c system. You will need it empty to disconnect the a/c lines.

    2) Disconnect the battery, and the ground cables to the frame.

    3) Disconnect the ECU's located behind the seats.

    4) Lift the car up for access to the bottom. Then remove the covers under the gas tank, and the shift linkage. Since you have the 355 you will also need to remove the under tray and defuser.

    5) Disconnect the shift linkage, at the gear box.

    6) Drain the oil, using the 12mm allen bolt at the front of the engine, and the plug at the bottom of the oil tank in the rear. DO NOT use the one on the bottom of the engine.

    7) Remove the rear wheels, and rear wheel well liners.

    8) Drain the radiators using the plastic drain screw, located at the bottom corner of each radiator tank.

    9) Disconnect the cooling hoses, and heater hose attatched to the water pump. They are in the middle, upper, front part of the engine.

    10) Disconnect the fuel filters, fuel lines, lines going to the charcoal filter, and connectors to the evaporation system.

    11) Disconnect the oil line to the oil cooler, and the line from the oil tank.

    12) Disconnect the break line.

    13) Disconnect the line to the clutch.

    14) Disconnect the parking break.

    15) Disconnect the A/C lines

    16) Disconnect the electronic connection from transmission to the connector, between the clutch line attachment and the charcoal canister, on the body.

    16.5) If you are using two floor jacks, you will need to remove the rear bumper. If you have access to a shop lift this step isn't nessesary.

    17) Disconnect the bolts that hold the exhaust to the frame.

    18) Remove the air filter box.

    19) Disconnect the throttle cable

    20) Loosen the twelve bolts, but do not take them out yet, that hold the subframe to the body.

    21) Lower the car so that the engine is sitting on the engine dolly. You can get a 1/2 ton flat moving dolly that will do the job just fine. The kind that has four caster wheels on the bottom and carpet on the sides.

    22) Now that the engine is resting on the dolly, you can completely remove the twelve bolts that hold the subframe to the body.

    23) Remove the nuts, three on each side, that hold the shock towers to the body. But don't remove the nut that holds the shock in place on the subframe.

    24) Remove the four bolts that hold the rear of the subframe to the body.

    25) Double check to make sure you have everything disconnected properly.

    26) Raise the body of the car leaving the engine resting on the dolly. As you are raising the body feed the ECU cables through the holes. Doing it this way makes it much easier.

    26.5) This step is if you are using the two floor jack method. After you have the body off of the engine you will need to rotate the engine 90deg. in order for the shock towers to clear the bottom of the cross bar, that the heat sheild is connected to.

    27) Roll the engine out.

    If you are going to use the two floor jack method, you will need to make sure that the floorjacks have a lift height of at least 20"-21". Other wise you will not be able to get the car high enough to roll the engine out. Also make sure the you are using jack stands and wheel stops.

    Happy wrenching.
     
  3. RF128706

    RF128706 Formula Junior

    Apr 8, 2004
    280
    Thanks Ernie, this is great info. I'll post pics here while I'm doing the job to share.

    Thanks again,

    R.
     
  4. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,614
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    Your welcome. Posting pics would be great. Hey If you could post pics to match each step that would be even better.
     
  5. tonyc

    tonyc Formula 3

    Oct 19, 2003
    1,665
    Monterey, CA
    Full Name:
    Tony C
    Nice run down ernie!

    RF128706
    Doing this yourself, I know you will be carefull, but step 26 be extra carefull. I helped do this with two engines and found this step to be the biggest pain. You really need someone feeding the cables as the body moves away from the engine.
     
  6. pistole

    pistole Formula Junior

    Jan 31, 2005
    771
    Malaysia
    RF, did you ever complete that 30K service guide for your 355 ?

    .
     
  7. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways

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