355 F1 Clutch and AMT huydraulic pump

13000 miles seems really low to need a clutch...

I have just under 14000 on mine now and the clutch is fine.

 

I have 13300 on mine and its in for service now. They said mine is fine as well.

 

Slightly off topic,

can one service a F1 clutch and pump at home without an SDx computer?

M

 

Mitch,

It's been said that the WSM has a self calibration procedure. However, Brian Crall has stated that without the use of an SD, it's not going to be correct.

 

It seems so ... unprofessional to put all new clutch and pump in then tow it to a dealer to say "please reset my F1 clutch, set its KIS point, and bleed its lines."

 

That's why I'm eager to see a cost effective SD hit the market.

The closest place for me would be nearly 2 hours away in Canada - not loving that idea at all....

 

How do you arrive at that conclusion? Your paying them for the service you need and not the work your perfectly able to conduct yourself. I am doing exactly that, when the work is done I will do the self cal and based on the outcome drive it or tow it in for the calibration. And like Dave said, when a suitable SD substitute comes on market (which will likely be a stupid cable for a PC for a grand), I will be set to not have to do that either.

 

60% is fine if clutch is not slipping

No transmission does not need to be dropped to update to a 360 pump

get the kit from Ricambi its the same place the dealer is going to get it from.

Just remember there going to charge you over 2k to install the 360 pump update.
Which takes no longer than 6hr to update. I've done two updates

 

I replaced the clutch myself at 36k miles (on the odometer, clutch was slipping when I bought it), inspected at 51k miles 5+ years later and was nowhere near the replacement thickness. Yes I did the PIS self calibration procedure without an SD, works fine.

Agreed, if it's no slipping there's no need to replace it yet.

Another F1 tip...one thing that kills pumps prematurely is a sticking relay causing it to burn out. Replace that every few years to be safe.

If anyone needs a clutch disc, PM me.

 

I dunno. Why not? I went and talked to the guys beforehand and told them what I am up to. I also told them they were the back-up in case I dive to deep They were all good with it.

The in car calibration kinda worked but did not exactly leave you feeling like it was "right". After the reset in the car, I drove it to the indy repair place and they did the SD magic.

 

1: Is that 60% worn? or 60% left?
2: No
3: Yes. Get the kit. Much cleaner install than a made up design.

 

Would you care to write up a little self calibration procedure?

 

It's already in the WSM, Mitch

 

Yes, I had posted the procedure in a thread a while back from the WSM, it should pop up with a quick search -

 

Actually, it did. Had a new clutch put in 2 years ago, and put about 2000+ miles on it since. Lately, it started to slip, and the pick up point (i.e. PIS - Point of Initial Slip) started to creep higher and higher, to an intolerable 2500 rpms. I was getting ready to bring it back to the shop then I tried this procedure as a last resort... and my drive today revealed greatly improved clutch pick up and grip performance, and I really think the slippage has disappeared! I was driving in first gear, clutch fully engaged with revs at 2500 rpm, and I floored the gas, and the rear tires broke loose and I was totally unprepared for a really serious fishtail! Wow... and the PIS is vastly improved, as I now feel the clutch engaging as early as 1300 rpms in certain conditions.

Don't replace that clutch if it is still performing well. I was almost sorry I did, as mine indicated a high 95% wear at the time, but the clutch was still performing really well. The only reason I agreed was because there was some seepage of fluid from the housing. Clutches on the 355 are easy to replace, and there is no need to drop the engine for that.

Thank you very much for the PIS tip!