355 F1 Leak and Clutch inquiry

Seems like your throw-out bearing is leaking fluid through one of the seals.
The throw-out bearing is activated with the F1 system fluid, unlike a normal 6-speed which uses fluid from the brake resevoir. If you have never had the throw-out bearing replaced, the replacement is the same part as the 360 model. Unfortunately, you may also need the support flange the bearing rides on. A rather big dollar item. You may be able to get away with just renewing the seals of your old throw-out bearing instead of replacing it with a new one, but this will have to wait for disassembly to determine if the conditions will allow it. You may just want to have the new parts installed to avoid a potential problem later.

To maximize the operation of the F1, as well as prolong proper clutch engagement and life, this step will also be necessary. Also bleeding the hydraulic system is impossible without the SD2.

 

No doubt ya read about my replacement of the throw out bearing just a little way down this very thread. Cant see that you would need a support flange though. It includes pictures of my old blown out bearing, along with a new uprated bearing, and shows the seals on th inside.
MB: Bellow you can see the support flange, the bearing sits on this and slides up and down the shaft. Thre is a small bracket that stops the bearing from comming of the shaft, this bracket holds the whole bearing on and is held on by two 8mm bolts at the top (picture wit the top red arrows). Also shown is the bleed nipple, and the two fluid holes on the shaft its self. The whole job of taking of the bumper,exhaust,clutch/plate took me about one hour, the beaing its self takes about 5 minuets to change. Hope this may help ya dude
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The 6 speed release bearing and the F1 are different Chaa. There are 3 guide pins plus a position sensor to deal with. If your bearing is good, you can replace the seals only. You can get the disc by itself if your PP is OK. I believe that I have read that Ferrari of Costa Mesa has a Kevlar disc available. You can bleed the slave without the SD2 but to set the wear to zero you will need the SD2. You should also replace the triple seals on the input shaft and the O-ring on the clutch shaft.

 

With all due respect, how does one bleed the throw-out bearing/slave without the use of the SD2 on the F1?
Thanks,
pino

 

Thanks for that man, did not know that

 

After all parts are replaced and fluid has been topped up, turn on ignition key for about 1 second. This build sufficent pressure to start bleeding. Leaving it on longer builds more pressure than you will need and can end up making a mess. Open bleeder screw then manually activate the solenoid for the clutch with an external 12V power supply. This is the top solenoid toward the rear of the car. After the pressure is exhausted, close the valve and repeat this procedure until no more air comes out of the bleeder.

 

Could one just not use the hot wire post on the starter as it is conviently located on top of the bell housing? Need it be external??

 

Interesting!
Thanks for taking the time to explain that.