355 fuse question

Something else must of have stopped working too then, find that and you will find your fuse

 

All the fuses are in the passenger foot well and driver's side of the front trunk. Start checking there first.

 

Pardon me if this is totally unhelpful, but on the 348 the power to the climate control panel (including the clock display) comes through the "hidden fuse" which is located on the passenger side of the heater box under the front trunk lining, not from a fuse in either of the main fuse panels. Since I have no experience with the 355, I don't know if it is set up the same as the 348, but this might explain why there does not seem to be a fuse visible for the clock.

 

FYI

On the "hidden fuse panel", the furthest fuse forward is supposed to be empty. This is where a fuse is installed for diagnosis of the abs, so it is designed to be empty. This is hidden between the lines, for all the world to enjoy in paragraph XX of page YY in the shop manual that cost $500 on ebay.

"Furthest fuse forward". Say that fast 10 times.

JM3

 

In the 355 the hidden fuse seems to only supply power to the heating/cooling blower system. My clock still worked fine with the hidden fuse blown.

 

I have the same problem, the clock has stopped working, everything else seems OK.

Would be very interested if anyone has the solution, there must be a fuse somewhere?

 

Is it possible the actual clock stopped working? I'm sure a Casio is more reliable.

 

Well, you can take it out and put 12 volts to it and be sure...

 

Just had to fix one for a client.
Fuse box under the passenger kick pannel, 10amp (red) top row 3rd in from left, on this car the fuse was marked for int-locking.
Hope yours is as easy to fix.

 

Great to hear! I will admit whenever I have a non-functioning accessory on a car, I will run a quick check of all the fuses in the car. Pretty easy with a continuity tester...each fuse has to exposed metal "points" and only takes a second to test each one. You can run through each panel in a few short minutes (trunk and footwell).

 

Yeah that is true but a good test light will also make that task quicker without the need to remove the fuse out of the holder as you would need to do with a continuity tester

 

That is what I was suggesting, the two exposed metal points are on the BACK of each fuse, so it does not require removal of each fuse. Sorry if my explanation was not clear.

 

It's all good Hugh

 

Here is a picture of a ATC blade fuse...notice on the back of the fuse the exposed metal "points" that can be touched with a continuity tester? Just use fine point test probes to check.
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Cool pic

Yes with the fused removed you use a continuity tester to test the fuse but if you try to check the fuse while it is still inserted in your fuse box you will blow the continuity tester bulb, if the fuse is still inserted in the fuse box use only a test light to check the exposed metal points

Most times when I use my continuity tester it is only for checking for broken wires in a harness or to check is a relay is latching etc...

 

usually what i do, with the fuse in the fuse box, i touch both exposed metal points with a test light, if each point lights up the bulb, i know the fuse is ok.

you can check all the fuses in the fuse box very quickly this way.

 

I use a Fluke True RMS multi-meter. I have it set on continuity, and touch one probe on one contact on the back of fuse, and the other probe on the other contact on back of fuse. Works for me.

But you guys are right, there is a difference between testing for continuity and testing for voltage. Use the right tool!

 

Nice choice I use one too

Yours is probably in better condition though

I have a CAT meter also but only use that for 'IR Themometer'
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I have the EXACT same model Fluke!