Hello I own a F355 1995 M2.7, with 38000 km. It had the major services at 30000km 10 month ago. Now it run bad under 3500rpm, when I start it, it runs on 4, 6, or 8 cylinders, like if I had ignitions problems on several cylinders.Same when hot. The last time it did it, it was due to an Ecu badly plugged, I pluged it and everything was ok. That is the reason why I think it is an electic problem. The ignition cutting problem affect the 2 line of cylinders and when I drive more than 3500rpm everythin is ok.I have no lights, slow down or check engine. Any idears ?? thanks nico
I would start with your plug wires...they are a known weak area. Remove and inspect/test them. Or just replace them. Might pull the plugs too.
As the F355 ages it's possible to develop symptoms and causes similar to the 348 Motronic/ wiring problems. What you describe is classic 348 2.7 Motronic and possible cause/ solutions are well documented on FChat: Grounds Connectors Wiring Lambda sensor/ ground Thermocouple ecu In addition to the spark plug wires. A spark issue will not trigger an error code (though will on Motronic 5.2 and up) as the ECU does not monitor spark, only trigger it. If there's a malfunction down the line it doesn't have sensors to monitor. Best, Rob
I am pretty certain that all 355's have the later O2 sensors with a seperate ground wire, so are not as suspetible to the ground issue like the 348's.
Hi Dave, The 348 and 355 all have the same type of 4 wire 02 sensors, Frt 02 on 5.2, (different part no. becuase of plug ends and wire length). The grounding from I could see wasn't related to the 02 ground wire itself it was because the 02 wouldn't complete the ground so you would need to attach a wire to the sensor housing and then to the frame to complete the ground. The way Ferrari grounded the 348 electrical system is different from the 355, they used the female/male plug ends on the 348 which would get lose and corrode vs bolting the grounding wires to the frame as was done on the 355. Regards, Vern
In addition to what the other guys have said, check the condition of the connector wires for your Mass Air Flow Sensors. Also have a look at the condition of the wires for the cranks position sensors.
Thanks Vern, I stand corrected...but 355's ARE less suseptible to this grounding issue right? Because I have never heard of anyone experiencing a problem...but hear of it frequently with the 348's.
That is the way I have seen it too. It appears it was corrected with the better ground setup on the 355. When I owned my 348 and had seen the way they were gounding the electrical system I was surprised that they would do it using that female/male plug end concept your just asking for corrosion problems, always seems odd that someone with layman abilities(me) can see that and they couldn't. Regards, vern
Hello and thanks for this reply I cleaned all the plugs easy to get, it did not change anything.So I put it into my garage , thinking about saling it...yesterday I drov it and everything was ok ! realy strange car ! maybe whater somewhere.... Do you know where to get plug protectors, because on may car all the plug protectors are "crinkled", damaged and doesnt protect anymore from whater... bye and thanks nico
Water in the plug holes can definitely cause ignition problems! I had the very problem with my 78 308 GTS anytime I washed it! The fix was to order new, fresh, tight fitting covers from T.Rutland's. Any Ferrari parts supplier should be able to help you with that. BUT, you should be able to see if that was the cause, as you will likely have a bit of rust or water/mineral residue on the exterior of the plugs...did you see any when you removed them?
hello here are the news: I changed the plugs (where nice) I changed the plug wires (2 where cut no more ohm resistance) I went for a SD check up that saw one crank fault one injector fault,n they erased and the default did not came again in the ecu. Saw the problem is on 5/8 not good CO/Co2 rate, the car dont burn the fuel. Saw that when the car is very cold it run fine 1 minute when the air pump is on. But still did not found solution !! realy sorry of it !
Someone recently posted of a bad coil. Perhaps you should swap yours left, and right? See if the problem moves to the 1/4 bank.
I will do it next week wit a co/co2 monitor an see if the problem change of bank...hope I will find.... The thing that is strange is that the car run fine the first minute when the air pump is on....
Hi! Also look for "Flywheel Grease" and "Slow Down ECU´s". Has been written down a dozed times. Both can give you the same symptoms that disappear and resurface with no rules! Please dont expect the garage to know about these faults or even understand the problems! 99% of the professional mechanics only use the internet to look at extraordinary norks, never for technical support. International "dont want to know" illness... Have the compression checked too. You dont have to remove the plugs, can be done monitoring the starter current! Good luck!
Your crank sensor fault could be your clue. Many 348/355 owners have reported bad wiring connections inside the rubber cover of the harness that connects to the actual crank sensors. I'd peel back those rubber boots and examine the wiring. A loose connection to your crank sensors will interfere with the correct firing of your spark plugs.
Thanks for your help it realy cool to be on this forum ! the have been compression checked and are ok . today I tested the CO/CO2 and more parameters on the 4 bolts on the manifolds, the test did not show a est and bad cylinder but a variation of measurement.So we could not identify the problem. So I decided to remove the injectors and to make them tested and cleaned. I will certainly change the crank sensor too before to do something more... will tell you news ! nico
Hey.. i have the EXACT same problem with my 94 512TR that has the M2.7. I just had a major service done (timing belts, water pump etc) I had test pipe and performance muffler installed. When I drove the car the first day after the major, i got slow down light cyl 7-12.. and car run like terrible under 3500rpm. over 3500rpm.. the car runs perfect. I brought it back to the garage, they disconnect the 02 sensors, and now the car runs fine.. but everyone is telling me there is still a problem, and the 02 sensor should always stay connected even if I have test pipe. I have been told that it might be Cam timing problem, or even maybe that there is an exhaust gasket leak.
i just went through this. Vern, what is the ecu on the left and right? toward the back of the engine bay. I changed the right side and all fixed.
hope my experience could help too 512 owners ! Do you know how to test crank sensors ? how much ohm should they have ? thanks nico
I tested the potentiometer sensor for throtele near the 4 intake pipes ref 0280122004 bosch. On the manual I have the values. the right side have good values and the left side are opposit to this exactly. Because you have to test it with no throttle and at full gaz. on right ok on left, full throttle value are inverted with no throttle value. Is it normal ? My 8 injectors have been tested and are ok. bye nico
I tested the potentiometer sensor for throtele near the 4 intake pipes ref 0280122004 bosch. On the manual I have the values. the right side have good values and the left side are opposit to this exactly. Because you have to test it with no throttle and at full gaz. on right ok on left, full throttle value are inverted with no throttle value. Is it normal ? My 8 injectors have been tested and are ok. bye nico
Yes I reed the good pin .But one bank or "carburetor axle "turn left and the other turn right so it should be ok. Now will have to check fuel presure and o2 sensor...