355 misfire when engine is hot? ignition wire reroute shows some relief.

Seriously that looks really bad, should not have happened

Some COP fit but would be better with .250 extra height. I am going to cut a set but if you get to it first cut me a sets

 

I believe they are 8mm since they are slightly larger than the original Berus. The rubber on them is extremely soft compared to the Berus which is probably why they distorted so easily. Apparently it is $250 for a new single wire since is has to be special ordered. I'm not sure if I want another one that may have the same issue though.

I'm going to look into what it will take to build my own cables using Beru wires. I'm dead in the water until I resolve the issue. I replaced the bad cable with the #1 wire from my old Beru set and the car ran like crap. It was missing out about 50%-75% of the time. Then I replaced it with the #8 wire and it is missing out about 25% of the time. Anyway, it is undriveable.

- Tom

 

Likewise. I talked with my friend today and he said he would build me a steel prototype to try out. Once we get it fine tuned, we can have it put into the CNC and make them out of aluminum. I would think it would be easier to prototype out of aluminum to start with, but he is a welder and steel is what he has access to. There will be a cost for the CAD work for the CNC, so it will depend on the cost if I decide to move forward vs. just buy an OEM set of wires.

- Tom

 

I have a CNC may be easier for me to just cut them out, it's quite simple

 

You can source the OE Beru wire and parts to rebuild the connector internals and some boots etc from Kingborne

 

Thanks Goth. I tried swapping left and right during Stoogie day, but the screw holes were even higher and fit was worse. The fit only worked if installed 'backwards' for the 2.7. The guides work well and look great.

I did a 130 mile drive with the 'Just Drive It' group today and the car idle was amazingly stable compared to how it was prior to putting on the wire separator after a long intense drive.

 

Cool. Let me know if you need some help with cost for the materials. I would definitely be interested in a set. It seems we have the same car pretty much, 1997 F355 Spider, so the the fit should be the same.

- Tom

 

Mine just showed up. Thanks goth....they look fantastic.

EDIT: All installed. Look great....took 30 minutes.

Thanks Goth!

 

Joining the party late and have not read whole thread. I see a mention of "cost for CAD work" let me know what is needed - Solidworks 3D modeling free from me.

 

Sending a PM now

- Tom

 

So how do I get a set of the awesome brackets for an F355 M5.2?

 

Dave we just need a .350 to .500 spacer for the center part of the cover that has the ferrari script

I was thinking the sides milled open if your going to use COP system for ventilation, I was just going to make spacer blocks so it gets air
I need it for COP

 

I think you could just use 0.35 or 0.5 standoffs if you want the ventilation. They are just sleeves that fit over the screws that can be picked up at the hardware store. I may actually try that myself, but I eventually want a sealed solution to keep water out if I stay with the existing plug setup. Not that we have much rain here in CA, but just in case.

- Tom

 

Tom sent me an email. If the objective is to simply raise the center wire cover to allow more clearance, then yes, as Tim stated, spacers are all that would be needed and they can be bought from McMaster-Carr.

Spacers:

McMaster-Carr

Standoffs:

McMaster-Carr

 

Your in Gilroy you get Garlic chunks

One issue I was thinking, the standoff's would better be blacks as to spread the load over a bigger area not to "dig" into the cover at both ends. I don't like to fix one thing and break another or in this case burr up the cover plate and the valve cover. Or simply use a nylon or something that specs higher.

Have to remember here also the cam belts are exposed and would not want anything dropping down that valley

 

Likewise.

 

PM the great & powerful Goth.

He'll send you a paypal link. You send in your scheckles and he sends out the parts

 

Goth is great to deal with, but most of you already know that.

 

Thanks to Goth for answering one of my major questions and solving one of my major problems with his threads. I fixed my stalling problem when the fan came on by isolating the air intake port much the same as the later models that have it isolated. Now I also know why my motor misfires when the engine is hot. Can you send me a link to buy those adapters? I want them! Gothdapters!!!

 

Done deal.

New plug wires and gothspeed wire reroute.

Hopefully that ends my plug wire cross talk

Did the resonator delete while I was in there
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I have just installed the Gothspeed ignition wire reroute brackets. I also took apart my new ignition cables that I bought in July, removed the copper core wires, and replaced them with mag wound wires. Here is a photo.
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Old thread revival....has anyone considered putting heat-resistant sleeves on our ignition wires? Seems like it would do a bunch of things -- prolong the life of the wires, shield them from heat, and reduce any cross-talk. I'm sure to have sleeves extend all the way to the ends you'd have to space the plug cover plate on the valve covers up a little, but that doesn't seem like a very big deal.

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010636-Silicone-Protect/dp/B00J82X8DW

 

I am jumping into this old thread from the 355 COP chat because I am interested in the coils on the 360. But first, my approach to the plug wire "togetherness" issue. When I saw the spark plug wires passing through the small hole at the back of the cam cover and continuing on together to each plug, I was concerned enough to put standoffs under the spark plug cover and rerouted the wires a bit. This also ventilated the valley that the wires were in (See photo).
BUT next I sat 8 IGN-1A GM/Mercury Marine coils over the plugs (required drilling holes through the Ferrari cover plate but the plug wires are MUCH shorter, not near any heat source and not lying on one another.
I am now considering Coil on Plug instead of Coil Near Plug and have found the Bosch equivalent Ferrari 360 coils but, I don't know much about them (do Coil on Plug units have internal igniters [drivers]) etc. I have fooled with a Coil and a plug in my living room and it seems difficult to pull the coil off the plug. I looking to hear of people's experiences with pulling these coils in order to change plugs etc. The plug connector seems designed for the nose on plug as well as the exposed threaded stud. Any