355 Paint Questions

I was always under the impression that 95 were the last of the single stage paint cars. Others will clarify Im sure.

 

I was told it is not a clear coat. When I had my bumper resprayed I went with a clear coat for extra chip protection, looks fine to me. Of course it is yellow...which you cannot look at directly in the sun without being blinded! I imagine red might be tougher to match and might show differently with a clear coat.

 

There have been other threads about this, try doing a search. From what I can remember late cars have clear coat, early cars had a solid paint. Not sure when they switched though.

 

Just to add to the valuable comments by UConn and Johan.....and to show that we are listening!...

Personally, I would not use a machine until I knew what work was needed. OK, even then, I would not use a machine. I have the time and I do not think that a superior finish is achieved using a machine. It also takes a lot longer to screw up when you are doing it by hand....
I know little more about paint than the next guy. There were many technological advances even in the mid 90's!! Brilliant (i.e. no clear coat on top) paint was a much more expensive process than clear on base and, of course, less environmentally friendly).
IMO, examine the car under the most punishing light conditions you can create. You will then know what you are dealing with (might even have a repainted panel?). Identify the worst panel and then treat by hand using any of the great products now available (3M's PERFECT-IT III range is great, for example - no silicones, quick cutting and very easy to remove). When you have done one panel and you know what you want to achieve you can determine the next course of action; I bet that you will stick with the hand work; you will treat the surfaces according to their condition and will leave the maximum amount of paint protection on your car. How you protect it when you have finished is another question!

 

With the Porter random polisher, go for it. You won't take off any paint that wasn't dead already. Just use a mild compound like Maguiers scartch X.

Now if you were using a polisher (ie, if you put your hand on the polishing bonnet it would rip your hand off) than no do not use it without great experience.

I was at a Maguier's work shop 101 for dummies, and the car the tech was doing a demo on a brand new 430. Everyone looked scared $hitless, until the tech cranked the Porter up to high.......and then put it to his face, to make a point. We all gasped and then laughed, as in we get the point.

 

Machine polishing is fine, but it will take paint off in certain cases, even the most benign machines. In general, never cross a body panel crease with one and you will be fine. Only polish mostly flat surfaces and be really careful around the rear butresses; do not cross the creases, otherwise the paint will thin out along the edges. Just go slow and don't use excess pressure/weight on the polisher.

 

Just to comment on the Menzerna. I am using this as well with very good result. I have tried a lot of different products but none comes even close to this. I am using it with flex 3402 orbital polisher, great machine and together with menzerna always great result.
I am no pro in polishing but with this machine I have never felt that I am risking anything. Made sure I wouldn’t screw anything up by testing it on my old Merc before putting it on the Ferrari…

 

You will be fine with the PC, the only way to damage the paint with that machine is to drop it on the car. Take some Menzerna IP or SIP and a mild polishing pad(like a white LC) and you should not have problems. With doing it by hand you won't accomplish anything if you are trying to rid the car of swirls or spider webbing. Take it slow and the car will be okay. Single stage red looks fantastic after detailed.