I am posting a question for member Mikster: ---------- 1999 355 F1 TRANS ISSUE… I was driving as Normal down Hwy then I lost 2-4-6 Gears yet 1-3-5 continued working for about 30 Minutes. Then I lost all GEARS and could not engage shifting even though, Indicator is showing a selected Gear Things that were recently done: Clutch-Seals etc = New F1 pump = New F1 Accumulator = New F1 Pump Relay = New F1 Pulse Speed Sensor = New F1 Electro Mag Sensor = New Pump is working and will draw down when started with typical 30 second cycle. Trunk-Hood-Doors all close properly with NO Lock Trigger issues. Paddles will engage First-Second-Third etc… either when car is Running or just on. Here is the issue… the car will stay in NEUTRAL even if the display indicates First or Reverse is engaged. I can PUSH-ROLL the car even though the indicator is showing a Gear selected??? --------------------- Is this a Actuator issue?
I'd imagine that you could rig up my way too bench test it while it's on the car, similar to what I did here in this video. that would delete all the variables out
Sounds like all the right signals are getting to the Gear Engagement & Selection Actuator (because the gear selections are displayed). Perhaps the output linkages between the gearbox actuator and the gearbox are jamming or broken. Taz is often saying that sagging engine/gearbox mounts can cause issues because the output rod is hits parts of the car. However, I don't know if this can get progressively and rapidly worse as shown by 2-4-6 failing first (especially after a single drive).
No Mitch itispossible you had two failures ev1 and then ev2 If the transmission thinks these are working and they are not you would get false neutrals between gears. I am sure you would have also seen this from the f1 diagrams. I personally do not believe in coincidences so I am unsure if air could have migrated into the system and caused both but I don’t think so either I know not much help. You probably have thought about this but if you mark the actuator you can see if it is turning. I am leaning towards two problems with similar chance 1 is that the actuator was failing and then both ex’s failed Which is the question you asked but I think 2is more likely 2 is that you have a mechanical problem in the gear box and now the system is seeing to much current and not working hence the f1 system is fine but is just outside of its perimeters I have a Galileo so I would pull the actuator and manually see if it works properly therefor pointing to the f1system. I have never seen this failure before on an f1 but have personally seen a mechanical problem On mine Point to different faults over time develop in the f1 Just my 2c I am sure you have checked for clearance to the actuator but a jack under the engine and a few hundred pounds of lift will allow a quick check of that which you also know so kind of repeating the obvious for new users. This would also possibly reduce the load and allow a weakening actuator to shift it it was slightly out of alignment
Where does the dash digital display get its information from? The actuator sensors or the paddle/button selections? I was assuming from the actuator sensors. On this point, now I'm not sure what part of the 355 actuator is sending the position signals: Image Unavailable, Please Login The 355 only has one sensor, the 360 has two: Image Unavailable, Please Login Inside the actuator, what's the (mechanical) difference between "gear selection" and "gear engagement"? There doesn't seem to be much distance between the two sensors.
For a 360, one sensor indicates which plane (R, 1/2, 3/4, 5/6) is selected and the other sensor indicates which position (front, N, back). Gear selection is which plane, gear engagement is front or back. It should be noted that the ID of the sensors in the WSM is backward. If the 355 has only one sensor, its operation is quite complicated.
So, something like this on the 360: Image Unavailable, Please Login Ugh.... That makes the wiring diagrams wrong, too. Image Unavailable, Please Login The wiring diagrams say plug 25P is the engagement sensor plug. It looks like it's hooked up to the lower sensor. Seems odd that both sensors have the same part number, but different numbers of selections.
It's not odd at all. If you look at the sensors you can tell that they simply measure the distance traveled. The ECU simply translates distance to physical position of the shift stick. The sensor is NLA and if found it's $1,200.
Do you mean for the 360? Wasn't there a Peugeot/Citroen stooge for this sensor? https://www.ebay.com/itm/224516311386
Ah.. good point... but if you're stuck for a replacement, I see they're making knock offs in China for $14 (sans cable).
I have to tell you the truth, I have had a really bad run of non-OEM parts of Ferrari, Porsches, Audi, and BMWs. At the moment, if it is someone else cars I am working on, it's going to be OEM Factory parts or nothing.
What are you saying "no" to, Grant? As far as I know, the sensors provide data for the digital display. If the sensors are picking up movement of the actuator and Mitchell's gear display is showing the correct selection, then the solenoid valves must be ok. The valves are controlling the hydraulic fluid to the actuator ... including EV1 and EV2 (odd and even gears). Only the mechanical link between the actuator and the gearbox is left in the equation (apart from the gearbox itself). Could a clutch fault give the impression of the car being in "neutral"? e.g. EVF fault? Does anyone have an internal diagram of the actuator? I see Ratarossa has some actuator videos on YouTube, but he had different issues.
I guess I should not have been so blunt Ian not what I meant. With the motion of the actuator I would not think that the forward and reverse motion would work for 1,3,5 and not 2,4,6. Due to a jamming situation. It will be interesting to see what Mitchell finds the problem is.
Interesting. I see your point about the jamming. I don’t know why it would get progressively worse in time on odds and evens due to jamming, but the actuator is moving (internally) to the right positions. It can only move to the right positions if the valves are operating normally.
I am still betting on mechanical I know Mitchell will find the problem he has in the past found some pretty weird ones that were not straight forward.
So I got my hands on the car. The first clue is: "all the electronics work, the dash tells us what gear it thinks it is in" which means it must be mechanical. The second clue is: "Why the hell is the rear left wheel have so much negative camber?" The third clue is: "Damn, the actuator is so close to the cross member" And voila: The mounting point is loose. The bad rear left shock, lets the car drop too low, causing the actuator to sit up against the sub frame member, and the vibration of the engine gets the mount to come loose. No more shifts. So, I need to buy two used shocks for 355. Anybody has some? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
No kidding. The actuator mounting bracket is broken into 2 pieces. The threaded pin and ball joint are gone. Even the threads on the actuator are worn off. He hit something along the way.
Knew you get it He drives like me and did not miss the hole As for the wheels Tim told me that gives ‘more bite in the corners” Maybe it was the other way ha ha.
@Targatime may have a solution... https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/complete-355-f1-system.648678/#post-148190774
I got it welded and mounted back on the car. The issue is the actuator now has to go through a learning process with an SDx computer so it knows where max, min, and middle is. Apparently, this requires fine adjustment while using a computer and me no have such beast.
