I have a sudden large power steering leak after monkeying about with the expansion tank. Hardly touched the PS reservoir, but my instinct is that it might have cracked? I have the later ZF style and wonder if they are prone to cracks with age? I need to remove under panels and get in there for a look, but the last thing I touched was the tank. Also, there was little to no fluid the engine valley, but there was some fluid in on the throttle linkage. Is there "turbulence" inside the reservoir when car is running? Can fluid escape from the vent on the car? I have removed the reservoir and don't see any obvious cracks
The zf tank never cracks. The power steering leak is someplace else. The two lines, the pump, the line from the pump to the firewall.
When the engine is running, there is always some "turbulence", i.e. movement of fluid through the PS reservoir. The fluid will escape from the vent on the cap if overfilled or if there is excessive foaming (air bubbles) in the fluid for some reason.
Removed the tank and testing shows no leak. Good there. The hoses below the tank are most likely original and show expected signs of deep gouges from hose clamps. Suspect is how loose they are on the pipes below? While those clamps are secure, the hoses spin around and are very loose? The larger diameter hose on the LH side which attaches to the pump is not that expensive and I will certainly replace, but the RH hose 173572 is harder to find and Tom Vail lists for 587.00?? My leak started after I "slightly" moved the tank and it appears to be a low pressure leak. The RH side hose with the tank removed is full of fluid to the top so perhaps that one is OK?
That expensive hose is the return hose. It is specially formed into that shape to accommodate the intricate position of the connection. It is the only hose that will work in that application. Attempts to cheap out on it before has resulted in a non functioning PS system (squealing and hard to turn). $182 is ... what it takes.
Fair enough. If needed I will order, but...... Can I assume that the return hose is ok since fluid is holding up to the top of the hose?
The beginning: car was idling in the driveway near 15 minutes. Moving the car revealed a 12" diameter puddle. From underneath the pump, belts, cam belt covers, front of the engine and the rear cavity for the gas tank are bone dry.?? There was a tiny amount of fluid on top of the boomerang throttle linkage which I find odd. Could pressurized fluid have come out the cap vent? The PS pipes that are faintly visible forward of the gas tank are clean and dry. Oil sump has some droplets of PS fluid, but that is expected. With all this cleanliness I think I can eliminate the pump and high side pressure hose, but something is not adding up....??
There is no such thing as a PS fluid proof hose. Its only a matter of how much time before it shrinks and cracks and leaks. I would do both while there.
Agreed. That is the plan. But not certain that is the problem? Now thinking that one or both of the tank clamps might have been loose? Why no mess? Pump to tank hose is hard with deep gouges for clamps but no visible cracks or leaks. Image Unavailable, Please Login Looks like a torque wrench was used to tighten the clamps.
The PS hoses connecting to the reservoir are notorious for having leaks (more like sweating) after many years. They develop micro porosity (still look pretty good on the outside) and the ATF slowly comes through the hose walls. The oil film spreads up and down the hoses and also reaches the hose clamps and even the bottom of the reservoir. As it looks like the oil is leaking at the connections to the reservoir, people tighten the clamps but the leak does not stop. So, continue tightening until the hose connections look like on your picture above. Get new good quality hoses and you should be fine. As for your 12" puddle, it could be due to overfilling or it could be that the PS pump is drawing some air in through the porous suction hose (hose reservoir to pump) which forms tiny bubbles in the ATF causing it to expand and go out through the vent on the reservoir cap.
That expensive return hose keeps getting more expensive....So far, cheapest I can find is 380. A pretty reliable source tells me the 360 return hose 179334 only needs to be shortened to work. 50. Can anyone confirm this?
Here is my return line. You can see on the pipe end that it has been double clamped Image Unavailable, Please Login Here is the 355 return hose. Does this look in any way similar to the 360 hose? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The right angle is the important form. The straight end can be trimmed. I would go for the $50 piece. On a separate note, I have seen the phenomenon that Miroljub described as sweating before especially on my BMWs. But sweating does not result in 12 inch puddle. If I were you, I would remove the coolant tank and closely inspect for the culprit. Are the connection at the pump leaking?
Here is photo of 360 hose which is about 30" long. Seems to have the proper right angle? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Nobody seems to have the oem at any price. Completely NLA. Still hoping someone who has seen both hoses can chime in.
Superformance does have hoses....Thanks Miro 160955 -OEM hose is readily available for under $100. -reproduction in silicone @GTCarPars is $35. -reproduction in rubber @Superformance $50. 173572 -OEM is NLA and if found is insanely expensive -reproduction in rubber @ Superformance $130. I opted for the 360 Modena hose 179334 $50. (will shorten and report). and the silicone reproduction from GT Car Parts Also ordered a new ZF tank. Don't think mine was leaking, but there is an internal filter that at 28 years old is not a bad idea to replace.
.....according to the internet???? lol Better flexibility under high heat conditions, and compatible with PS fluid...
