355 questions and opinions

Let's see, where to begin? Have you decided on a color combination?

 

Step 1. Search "355 header valve guides"
Step 2. read.
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After the valve guide have been done, and in my opinion, the 95s are the best F355 M6. The engine has more poke (by a triffling), its easier to reset the codes (OBDIO-1), oldest=lesss expensive, easier to dyno tune the engine (chip replacement). And to boot, all the F355 challenge cars were ECU'ed and configured like the '95 models (less exhaust).

 

Hi

I heard the later the model u get (after 96) is the best.

Sure it has '10' hp less but the engine system etc etc is a lot better on them, the car is more reliable and the car is more valuable. So overall they are a much better car.

This comes from the ferarri service centre ive dealt with n they said get the later model if u dont want headaches. They serviced both so i assume they know what their saying.

 

I have '95 F355 and it is pretty solid. The '95 also has a 6-speed shifter and not the F1 which will save money in the long run in case of failures. The '95 also has the 2.7 ECU as opposed to the 5.2 ECU in the '96 and later models which adds more smog controls. I wouldn't say that the '95 is 'less reliable' than any other well maintained F355.

 

You heard incorrectly.

 

Wrong, wrong and wrong again. Anyone mechanic that knows the 355 knows that the 95 is the best year. Any mechanic telling you different...dont let him touch your car.

 

Wrong, wrong, wrong, the best car is the one that is been PROPERLY maintained and well taken care of. The year of the car is the least of your concerns if you end up with a problem child.

 

Hi Scott,

Looks like we may be neighbors. I'm in Wisconsin too. I've had two 355 Spiders, both '99s, both manual transmissions, both yellow on black. Both were relatively trouble free.

I would love to find a manual 6 speed 355 GTB. Good ones seem to be rare.

Take care.

Mike

 

I've owned a beautiful 97 F355b for over ten years. It has about 38K on the clock. Three majors done by the best tech in the business. The car is a joy to drive. It brings a smile every time I take it out. I also own a perfect Gallardo. The 355B is the ultimate in my opinion. It has the aggressive line of a true Ferrari with the sound of an F1! In my opinion, it is a classic. I have decided to keep mine until I can't drive any more. My wife claims the car as hers and tells me that she likes it better than the G. I also have a 550SL for my daily driver. It has some very nice lines but the 355B is flatly, BEAUTIFUL. Get one and enjoy it. The Spider is great, but the lines of the B are amazing. I think the B will have some upward value potential if the future. Not a lot, but some. Since the 355 I've been a bit disappointed in the design of the modern F car. That is until the 458! Which, by the way, I think is a perfect car. But, its been a long time between the 355 and the 458. The costs of ownership are worth the joy of ownership! BTW: I have every receipt for every service done on my car since new including the valves, headers and a total of 4 majors! Haven't ever added it up and probably won't because it would be a big number. But, if you can afford the ticket to maintain the car, buy it. You won't look back. They are a great value at today's price point.

 

Step 4. Search "355 buyers guide"
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There are ten years of answers to the same question here

 

Buy a 328

 

In Atlanta, we have emmisions testing where 95 and anything before goes on the rollers with a "sniffer" in the tailpipe.

96 and newer only gets plugged in under the dash to check for engine/emmission error codes.

What I was told by an indi mechanic is to get a '96+ because with the valve guides... you may be getting some pollution due to wearing guides that wont pass the sniffer, but a '96 with the same issue would pass due to the computer check.

He said mid '98+ to get the better valve guides, otherwise it would cost $2500 to replace the guides if I delivered the heads to his shop.... blah blah blah.

Personally, it's a '96+ with 6 speed ONLY (F1 pumps are crazy expensive) and if possible, one with aftermarket headers is what I'm after... find a 98-99 ready for a service and priced as such.... that's my my next sportscar purchase later this year.

 

I wrote this up last December for a friend who was considering a 355 after he drove mine. After reading it he bought a really nice 2008 Corvette with a warranty.

The costs are subjective and the fixes are simply my opinions, but the list is somewhat accurate.

Perhaps this will help in your search..............again, my personal list I am sure I missed some things....

F355 FI spider known issues:

Valve guides – Some cars had bronze (?) alloy valve guides from the factory. They wore quickly and the cars started to lose compression and burn oil. The "early" cars are affected but there is no known change over date. It sounds like all 1995-1996 had old guides but some 1997 cars may have the new valve guides while a 1998 may not. The fix requires pulling the heads and installing new valve guides.....not cheap. if you look at a 1996, make sure the history shows valve guide repair or adjust the price for it.

F1 Shifter pump - Seems to fail on occasion. New replacement part from Ferrari is quite expensive if you can even find it. There is a way to replace the F355 pump with a F360 pump that is a little less money and a much more reliable design. But still not cheap. A 6-speed would be less expensive option all the way around.

Headers – The wild bends on the headers creates thin walls on the bend radius and the stock ones crack after a period of time. Sometimes you can tell by the header packing being blown out around the casings, but not always. CEL might indicate it as well. If the condition goes unchecked, engine damage can occur. After market headers (Fabspeed is what I have) run $2500 and are much better than stock.

Tension Bearings – the tensioner bearings that ride on the cam shaft belts have failed on some cars. The result, as you might imagine, is a very expensive engine rebuild. Hill engineering makes a better set but to install them you need to pull the engine. Check the engine out records to make sure these were changed at the last major.

Catalytic converters – It seems the original catalytic converters did not always last as long as people would like. The cores let go from the housing and they would rattle in the pipe. The result is an overheating condition and the car would start to show error codes and the check engine lights would come on. Aftermarket options are higher flow, lower temps and better all around. Stock Cats are $4400. Crazy.

Exhaust Bypass Valve – Seems to fail and stops in the closed position increasing back pressure. Some have wired these open or removed them altogether but there seems to be concern about "backsliding" and damage to cylinder walls if that is done. A replacement is $1000.

Engine bay fires – Ferrari seems to have a lot of these. They actually had a recall to re-route the fuel lines to avoid a chafing and leaking condition in the 348 / 355 models. At least that fix is free. Make SURE this is done.

Dash warp – The dashboard leather will warp and pull if the car is left in the heat (LA, AZ, etc) and you need to have it recovered. Removing the dash is actually pretty easy. But I have no idea on what someone like Bradan would charge to have it recovered.

Sticky parts – the switches and knobs were coated by Ferrari to have a soft feel to them instead of the hard plastic feel. After 10 years or so that soft coating breaks down and the parts get “sticky”. Plastic in general will do this. StickyNoMore can do the whole thing for you and it's cheap (compared to new parts).

Major engine maintenance – The cam belts need to be replaced every 3 - 5 years depending on who you talk to. This is a time based replacement in my opinion....Not mileage. A hassle free, "no surprises" service of these belts, oil change, gear oil change, coolant flush, A/C recharge, belt replacement & spark plugs runs around $5000 - $7000.

The simplest car to get is a 1995 Berlinetta, Motronic 2.7. It has the old OBDI on board and pretty easy to keep organized.

In 1996+ (Motronic 5.2) these cars have post Cat O2 sensors and an OBDII system that is far more finicky in keeping the CEL out.

The complexity rises with the Spider and the crazy top retraction / ecu / seat / window / etc sequencing. About 1/2 the things work on mine and will be summer project to correct. If I need a new ECU for the top it is $3300.

Remember the costs of the parts on these cars.... Ferrari is not shy about their pricing.

Good luck.

 

THANK YOU for leaving out the "how often do I need to change the cambelts" question

To the OP: Good luck in your search, the 355 is a gem

 

Love the 355 but you will have to spend 5K/year most likely. Maybe some years less and others much more.

 

$5K a year average?? Granted a few guys have had catastrophic failures- but who is averaging $5K a year??

I figure with routine maintenance and a 5-year major schedule you should be able to average $2,000-ish.

 

And muffler bearings. The 355 has 2 of them.

 

Hey Mike:

How often DO I need to change my belts?