Factory recommends synthetic 5w-40. Takes 9 to 10 quarts. Filter is a Purflux #197654, and there is no cross reference, you must use the factory filter. If you want the factory oil, it is/was Shell Ultra Helix 5w-40. But it is $19 per quart/liter, and foams like crazy. Most people use Mobil 1 0w-40, or any other quality 5w-40 synthetic, like Redline, Amsoil, Valvoline, etc. Ricambi America sells a nice oil change kit that includes the filter, the copper crush washers for the remote sump and oil pan, and new drain bolts for $45 or so. http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?cPath=75&products_id=261227&osCsid=t5qrpr6bana51t53lp8gmb8rv1
AGIP PC synthetic 5-40 was in my car when I bought it. I'm staying with it as the car has zero oil consumption. Likely would be fine with another brand but it seems logical to stay with what's currently working well.
I ran Mobil 1 0W-40 last year in the 355, and in my subjective opinion it was just fine. But in reality we have no way to tell if there was a teeny bit more or less wear over one year attributed to an oil grade. Also that was Mobil 1, which people have their opinions on. I've always loved it and thought it was great...until I did more reading about ZDDP... So this change I went with Redline 10W-30 for more ZDDP and closer to factory recommendations for weight (I don't track it, but do see 8500 on occasion)
I'm currently using Castrol R 10w-60, I had this put in at the last service, prior to that I had been using Shell Helix 5w-40 as per factory specs. I prefer the 10w-60 as it holds better idle oil pressure in warmer conditions.
I am using Mobile 1 15w/50 (synthetic). It can be purchased at Walmart for under $50 for 10 quarts. I get the filter kit from Ricambi for under $50. So you can do your own oil change for $100. My 1995 355 Spider has 35k miles and runs better than when new.
I thought the Ultra Helix (SH) recommended for the F355 is no longer available. I could have sworn I read somewhere it is now marketed under the Quaker State trade name. Maybe someone here can chime in on this. As for my F355 I tried the 0-20 Mobil after reading the article by AHaas. I noticed that my engine ran about 15 to 20 degrees cooler while maintaining the 35 psi at idle and above 75 psi around 6K. The ZDDP is also something that has been a thorn in my side since the Mobil I use is below par in terms of ZDDP. Ditto on Redline having the requisite ZDDP level. As on the side, I don't track my car and occasionally sees 8000 RPM specially when my son drives it. 97 F355 GTS w 12K miles in shop for 30K Ed
I used Mobil 1 15w-50 on my last oil change (March of this year) and it seems to be pretty high oil pressure from cold start. I of course warm fully before running higher revs, but I think this is probably too thick, and plan to go back to either Mobil 1 0w-40 or Castrol Syntec European Formula 0w-30 on my next change.
Running Redline 15w50 and same thing - oil pressure a bit higher than I like. Engine seems to run hotter too. I will switch back to OEM next week during 30k service.
I was wondering if climate is a factor in selecting a viscosity? Here in Southern California, we just had record breaking heat of 113 degrees in Los Angeles. With an already hot engine and very hot outdoor temps does anyone know if a thicker oil would provide more protection?
That what I was told and why it's in mine. We have about 45-60 day over 100 each year and 16 of those over 110..
If you look at the oil temperature gauge you can answer this question for yourself. It takes a 30dF temperature change at operating conditions for one grade of oil to be the next greater or lesser grade of oil--viscosity-wise. So, lets say your oil temp gauge reads 230dF and you are running a xxW-40 oil. An xxW-50 oil will have the same operating viscosity at 260dF, and a xxW-30 oil will have the same operating viscosity at 200dF. And the actual viscosities of all these oils will be about 12cSt at those given temperatures. The answer is basically:: NO, the thermostats in the water and oil systems and the fans keep the oils rather constant in temperature over the seasons and thus, rather constant in viscosity. The thermostats prevent excessively LOW temperatures while the fans prevent excessively HIGH temps.
The Pennzoil Ultra 5W-40 is actually the Shell Helix product now here in the States and selling for just under $4 per quart at Pep Boys. I'm running it my '96 right now without issues.
Shell owns Quaker State. If you call the phone number on the back of a bottle of Quaker State Q-power, someone at Shell answers the phone. I think that they probably own Pennzoil as well and all of this monkey business of going from Helix to Q-power to Ultra is just some marketing guys idea. You can''t even buy the Helix or the Q-power anymore. I would be surprised if you could get the Ultra in the recommended viscosity. Last I heard, the dealership was the only source for Ultra with the right viscosity and Ferrari logo.
There has been a number of reports of damaged camshafts caused by the lowered ZDDP in modern oils for car engines. Luckily, this does not apply to motorcycle 4T oils and many still have a healthy level of ZDDP. Otherwise, there is no issue at all with using 4T oils in car engines (as advised by oil companies' experts). I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T as it has 1200-1300 ZDDP which is considered still good for flat tappets. They have another good option (car engine oil) - Mobil 1 15W-50 with same level of ZDDP (not available where I live). I prefer to go with Mobil as they seem to be the only company to publish and regularly update info on ZDDP content in their oils (see the latest in attachment). Image Unavailable, Please Login
Read this and then i think you can decide yourself. I use mobile 0 20 summer and 5 40 for race track. Based on oil pressure and temp. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q-sponsored-algar-ferrari/136052-motor-oil-all-chapters-inclusive-copy-save.html?highlight=Understanding+oil
Using 300V Power Race 5W40 Motul in 355 and challenge car. Only oil Competizione & Sports Cars recommends.
That's good to know. I will be trying that next. What's the oil change oil interval looking like on the 300v ? I'vd heard on the street car, the 300v will be fine but more frequent changes. I'm ok with a change every 3-5k mi.
Pennzoil Ultra has been replaced by this. At least in the U.S. It is still the only oil with factory recommendation by FNA. However, yes, there are many good oils out there as long as you get best quality, full synthetic, in a viscosity appropriate for your climate and intended vehicle use. the Motul 300V looks good, but their own factory sheet says its for short term use. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
