355 spider beeping noise

Im busting out this old thread in the hope that someone can shed light on this problemm

Today...i did some practice runs BEFORE starting the Gold kit install.. I had to change the polarity on my LHS parker so I could install a new set of LEDS..
And so i did some dry practice runs with ther FBB2 tool. It took a while but i sucessfully removed the pins from the LHS parker and reinserted them with oppsoite polarity so the LED would work.. It did and No issues whatsoever...

The next thing i used the tool for was to remove the pins from the water heater stepper pump electrical harness (on the pump side of the wiring harness) so i could install the REPLACEMENT BOSCH PUMP P/N 0392020054.. which is the correct replacement part for the stepper pump 0392020007..
Because this pump has a female socket welded into the plastic on its top i thought I would make my own harness to SPLICE it into the 355 wiring harness for the stepper pump..
Everything was going great UNTILL...

While trying to figure out which part of the harness socket where the old pump plugged into (car side) was +ve or -ve... i got a simple test light circuit and REALISED both electrical terminals in the harness where the old pump plugged into were both POSITIVE or had power...
Perplexed i was trying to think it out and then a FRIEND TURNED UP..
HE HAD A REALY SMART (ahem dumb idea) He told me that one of these wires was actually Negative but had a small amount of current through it.. He gave me countless examples where on OTHER cars this was the case.. He said all we needed was a OHM meter and whichever of the 2 wires had less current through it would be the NEGATIVE wire..
Him Being a mechanic i had no reason to doubt him..

He took the ohm meter conected the +ve side of the ohmeter to one of the elecrical connectors in the connector for the stepper PUMP in the 355 harness and then earthed the other lead for the ohmeter...

IMMEDIATELY i heard a beeping noise. This beeping noise was similar to the spyder roof beeping when i gets stuck and much the same frequency but SOFTER...

I told him he was an idiot and that he just put a +ve current into a LIVE wire in my 355 and that the ECU or something else had gone into a protection mode because of this... Probably thinking there was a short in the stepprd pump(even though it wasnt connected...

My Spyder roof switches dont work now and the seats dont move at all and everytime i turn the key to accesories i get this DMANED BEEPING NOISE
The car however does start but the beeping coming from the pass side (LHS as you face the car from the back) dash/trunk lid compartment..

My 2 questions are therefore...

1. HAve i stuffed the car.. the beeping doesnt go away even after a 20min battery cutoff switch wait...
The car still starts and everything works BUT I CANT GET RID OF THE BEEPING!!
Will a scanner help if i clear the codes..?

2. Should both the male connectors in the electrical plug in the 355 harness into which the stepper pump plugs into be both Positive..?
If so then why has the stepper pump a +ve and -ve sign on the female plug in the socket that is incorporated into itsplastic top?

Any help is greatly appreciated ... thanks in advance

 

I am still shaking my head from the second sentence of your post.... lets back up a bit.

Post a few photo's of what was done in the rear and what was done on the stepper motor. After a few more cups of coffee I will try to get my head around this and pull out my 355 Spider to compare what we both have.

Rule 1: Dont follow advise from anyone not knowing a given system
Rule 2: Read the instruction manual with the kit giving special attention to the points about modifying the FBB2 tool

 

Thanks for chiming in Dave..

Ill back up and explain what was done in sequence and with photos..

I bought a set of the V12s LED kit for the 355 some time ago...Most of the LEDs fitted with no issues.. however there were some pin orientaion issues with the front PARKER light sockets... V12s has been most helpfull in their customer support and finally the i recieved the front parker LEDS with the correct pin orientation...

Now i found that if i put both front parker LEDS in ONLY the Drivers side would light up!! But if i flipped the passenger side parker light socket around 180 degrees (ie reversed the polarity ) both would light up. Unlike normal globes LEDS are polar specific..
I asked V12s about this problem and they said that most tailights and turn signal light LEDS are not polar specific so LEDS go in and work just like normal globes.. But when a LED is polar specific as in the case of the front parkers it will HIGHLIGHT the fact that attention to polar specificity was not adressed at the factory and while this is not an issue with NORMAL GLOBES it will be brought to light when using a polar specific LED such as the parker ones in the V12s Kit.. WHy they didnt give me non polar front parkers? I dont know it would have been a lot easier...

Anyway you can follow here what i did by the photos..

The The L shaped socket that holds the globes and connects to the front wiring harness only goes on one way..Ie there are L and R globe sockets BUT i found if i turned the pass side socket 180 degrees ie upside down and connected it to the pass wiring harness for the parker the pass globe would activate... In its normal orientation it Failed to light..

Pic 1 Normal orientation and polarity... no light
Pic 2 Reverse orientation and polarity..L shaped socket flipped 180 degrees..LIGHTS UP

Now to solve the issue as instructed by V12s I used the FBB tool in the Gold Kit to pull out the 2 wires going into the L shaped socket and switch them around to reverse the polarity.. It worked.. no blown fuses no issues whatsover and it remaind like this for over 2 weeks...
Using the FBB tool was a bit tricky at first.. BECAUSE IT LOOKED SO GOOD in the flesh i didnt want to bend the prongs and i was trying to remove the electrical connectors while keeping the tool PRISTINE.. Finally i decided to bend the prongs as per Daves instructions in the Gold KIt and they popped out effortlessly.. VERY impresive stuff indeed..

Excited about my sucess with the LEDS i then decided to use the FBB tool to replace my stepper pump..I got the correct replacement pump from bosch.. P/N 0392020054 that replaces P/N 039202007...
BUT the new pump doesnt have 2 wires coming out of it with a female connector attatched (like the old pump).. It has a plastic MALE connector incorporated into the plastic housing on top...SO you have to SPLICE UP your own connection to make it work..

I did the following... I left the part of the harness that attatches the pump to the car INTACT I just cut off the 2 wires attatched to the old pump at its base...put on 2 electrical connectors using daves crimping tool and then bought a standard bosch plastic female connector that fits perfectly onto the black plastic male connector on the top of the NEW PUMP ... I THOUGHT GREAT this is EASY...

Now.. like all electrical devices the new pump has a +ve and -ve marked on the plastic male pump that is incorporated into its black plastic top cover..I set about testing the old pump on a bench battery to find out which was which.. As you can see from the photos the old pump had 2 wires coming out of it... BLACK WIRE -ve.. BROWN WIRE +ve. EASY RIGHT...

So i went to the car to find out which of the 2 wires in the Femal plug in the harnessto which the old pump connected to was +ve or -ve. There are 2 colored wires here ONE RED the other WHITE with green stripe..

I ASSUMED RED would be +ve and the white green -ve..
To be sure i tested each one with a SIMPLE LIGHT CIRCUIT.. using the trunk latch on the pass side as GROUND.. TO my surprise both were POSITIVE...

Then my FRIEND walked in and told me his theory that in some cars -ve wires actualy still had current in them even though they were negative our job was to use an OHM meter to find out which of the 2 wires had the least current going through it and this would be the NEGATIVE one..

He proceeded to hook up the ohm meter which has a battery in it and produces its own power.. he earthed the GREEN wire to the trunk latch on the pass side and immediately a beeping noise started...

Now there is NO POWER to the 2 wires to the stepper pump. Seats wont move.. Spyder roof wont move via switches but does so when i use the switch between the 2 seats...And a CONSTANT beeping noise that wont go away.. Beeping ocurs when ignition is turned to accessories and also when the car starts.. Thankfully the car starts,,

Im lost as to what to do next.. I was thinking about using a scanner to clear the codes and maybe the car will correct itself.. but i am fearful i may have done some ECU or other damage.. Ive searched the internet for clues but to no avail..

regards pk
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Have you checked for a blown fuse?

 

Hi olcoin thanks for the input...
By fuses i think you are refering to the 2 near the spyder roof pumps between the seats?
I assumed they were ok as the emergency electrical switch for the roof works..
I checked them just in case and thyre ok...
As for the relays coupled to them i dont know how to check relays..

regards pk