figured I'd post incase anyone has a similar issue and actually tries to search. when following the proper procedure, the top on my spider was not even attempting to move. Thought about converting to manual, but don't have a wrench skinny enough to get that "odd" bolt out... Anyway, when releasing the top, the windows would roll down, seats would move forward, but all i was getting was a constant beeping. Took me a couple hours of troubleshooting (way too long) to find a simple fix...Fluid was low, and that 30A fuse in the compartment between the seats was blown. Replaced the fuse, topped off the fluid and bingo!!! top works perfect! FYI - easiest way i found to top off fluid: 1. remove cover between seats. 2. remove two bolts holding the silver "box" just below the two relays/fuses (not sure exactly what that box is or the proper name). 3. Move the box and wires to the side and you'll see a single bolt (think it was a 13mm). 4. Remove this bolt to reveal the fill port. easy stuff!
My top was just acting sluggish on the last move to fully up. Checked the fluid and it was at the min mark. Added to the max line and it finishes the cycle now perfectly. Mark I used the Mercedes hydraulic product. It's about $20 from an MB dealer. It seems as if it's a private label of another hydraulic fluid product but a friend with a 360 had it here and you don't need much.
I have been out if the car to donut. Always in the drivers seat. What do you do? Reach ovet the drivers seat from outside to reach the switch? Why?
Yes. Why? It's easier than sitting in there when the seat comes forward and then leans forward its uncomfortable. So I just reach in through the window.
I'm not bring critical I was trying to understand what you do. The car was designed to be sat it when doing this. It doesn't lean forward, if travels forward. I can understand if you are uncomfortable moving forward due to your physical size. I am 5 9 so it doesn't bother me and I sit in the car to do it. You could make up a little trigger switch with an extension and the correct plug and plug it into your OEM switch. And keep it behind your seat so you can stand outside the car without having to reach in through the window. Just a thought.
I didn't think you were being critical. I converted it to manual awhile back so I hardly remember using the switch. i do have to lean my seats forward to put top up or down
I dropped by the Benz dealership a little too late on Saturday, and the service department had already closed. I was feeling a bit anxious to get the top down for what was going to be a beautiful day, Sunday, soooooo..... I'm sure I'm about to open a can of worms here, but I used hydraulic jack fluid purchased at AutoZone. I've cycled the top about 15 times so far and it moves up/down with no issues. However, I plan on doing a complete flush and replacing the fluid from the Benx dealer (just for peace of mind)...
I personally would leave well enough alone. The fluid you used is most likely just fine. I have read through the instructions for flushing these things and IMO there are to many bleed points, etc. and you may introduce air and create issues that you don't need to. Just my 2 cents.
I agree with Bob, i think you may cause more problems than you solve. Could be a big mess. If you want to do something, then suck out all the fluid from the reservoir and put in new fluid, cycle it a few times and repeat a time or two. That should get most of the fluid swapped.
i've read through those instructions a number of times as well. Doesn't seem like too much of a challenge, but I'm with ya on the potential to introduce air into the lines... Thanks for the responses. I was thinking that the jack oil I used will continue to work just fine. I'll leave it as is and report back if I encounter any issues...
That might be a great idea actually for us all. These things lose fluid somehow. They dont seem to leak so it must be evaporation which will mean increased viscosity which can't be good. A freshening of reservoir fluid might help.
I'm 6' 1" and am able to sit in the car while taking down the top. If I put on a few more pounds I may not have room without pressing the steering wheel but I'm not there yet. When I first bought the car a few years ago, the top worked intermittently. The dealer spent several hours changing the fluid, bleeding the system and cheching the ECU. Turns out that the bands were weak. Once those were replaced, no problems since then.
Yep, those elastic straps pull the top bars together to allow it to fold up properly. It seems they are NLA. I bought some elastic band material from Hobby Lobby and sewed them like the original ones (my daughter had to help me thread the needle and bobber properly). It works, but I am still searching for some stronger elastic band. I need to check with my local interior shop, I bet he has some from other convertible top jobs.
There was a guy on here who had made up a bunch of them that I got it from. I'll see if I can dig up his name. They were just right and I think I paid him $15 for them.
Thanks Bob. I would have gladly paid a lot more after spending about an hour messing with my daughters electronic sewing machine.
