355 Subframe / Engine Stand / Caster Plates - Free Drawings

I am interested...

 

The only recommendation that I would make would be to separate the top cradle nest from the lower support structure (or some other design approach) to incorporate mini bottle jacks to allow for articulation of the cradle for supporting precise and even engagement when removing the engine, and for fine tuning alignment without unnecessary and damaging stress on the rear bodywork when re-installing. The center of gravity shifts when the drivetrain is removed, and thus alignments change, necessitating a way to compensate.

I did it for my own, it was easy, and it proved absolutely invaluable to the servicing process.

 

You really need F/R and L/R.

 

Interested in both items.

 

Agree to disagree, I suppose. Two floor jacks isn't really the best way to gain any kind of precise alignment... especially so with swivel casters working against you. Your design, and choice to make. I understand the desire to keep it as simple as possible, though.

 

Dave do you have a price and rough timing? No big rush on my side...thanks.

 

Keeping it simple should keep the price reasonable. It can always be modified later, in many ways, if people want to go that route. If it gets too complicated and precise it may not sell.

For those concerned with the space it takes up or being able to break it down, I think with some ingenuity this can be used as a tool cart or something like that for day-to-day garage use (or even elsewhere) until needed once every 3 or 5 years.

 

Of course, and as an engineer with quite a bit of experience in the design and manufacturing realms, I understand the balance. Certainly more than one way to resolve the problem with pluses and minuses each way. For me personally, I chose to take that extra complicating step with the fixturing in order to make the process as pain free and straightforward as possible. That's where I placed value, and it certainly provided a ton of value on a typically tricky and delicate process. I also like those side projects of designing and creating almost as much as the main project at hand.

At any rate, best of luck. Your kit will certainly be a great piece to have for many on here.

 

These are great required items if you are a shop and need to move cars around due to limited lift space. But 99% of the diy guys here work on 1 car at a time and probably 95% don't have a lift. For over 30 years all I have used are well constructed laminated 2x6 blocks of wood that have a minimal footprint in my garage. The car is lifted off the motor sitting on wood block with no wheels. I do the motor service and drop the body right back down on the motor with almost no need to widget the subframe holes to the body holes to replace the bolts. One of the most prolific 348 fixers in the southBay never used a lift and did the reiner method with a Harbor Freight wooden dolly! The bottom line is think about how you really work and try to keep your lives simple.

 

Haha On something like this I would just be lazy and bust out the mig welder.

 

I wouldn't have any other color on the engine cradle or the caster brackets. Looks like FLY and that's perfect Also great from a contrast/safety viewpoint.

 

Thanks for the downloads. While I'm still a year out on the service, this could be a good way to learn how to weld. LOL. Yellow is a great color.

 

Thanks Dave for the drawings, they really helped me with my recent major service. i just bought 2" tubing at my local steel place and welded it all up. i had different diameter casters, so i adjusted lengths accordingly. im going to add hooks and maybe even a removable table top, then it can be multi-use.
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