Ian, Here's my 1995 Ferrari F355 Challenge engine bay (prior to last year's shocks and springs updates which is why you see the original actuators)... Image Unavailable, Please Login It was delivered to Miller Motorcars with a title along with a crated Challenge kit which was installed by the dealership who in turn supported the car when it raced. It's OBDI. In 1996, F355s became OBDII and were plumbed differently with the exception of Swiss cars which did not become OBDII until 1997. That's why a lot of F355 Challenge cars are from Switzerland. F355 Challenge cars had to be homologized for the Series and so later cars had to be replumbed like mine. I'm not sure what OBD port later cars have. Mine retains its OBDI port. Thus there are two Challenge parts manuals. In fact, an F355 Challenge Regulation Manual was printed for the years 1995 - 1999 inclusive. Changes were made each year in the PARTS sections. The 1999 Regulations Manual lists all changes retroactively. It's important to know the history of the particular Challenge car to determine what parts were changed or added to. I hope this helps, Barry
Not sure what "replumbed" means in this context Wouldn't homologation mean that the later cars would have be 5.2 with a single ECU and Y-shaped inlet trunking? The parts manual on Eurospares shows Y-shaped inlet trunking. @marcos persia Does your car's engine bay look like Barry's photo?
Ian, by "replumbed" I mean that later cars' engines looked just like mine with two ECUs and separate inlets. Later cars were Factory-built and Motronic 2.7 which is why they can't be titled and instead came with MSOs or Certificates of Origins. Disregard Eurospares' 1999 parts diagram for the electrical system which shows the Y-shaped inlet trunking found on 5.2 Motronic cars. marcos persia's engine bay should look just like mine.
Ian, Let me take this opportunity to thank you for all the updated, corrected, and color-coded electrical diagrams you have made available for us. Those you sent Pocono Sportscar enabled them to properly rewire my fan switches to function independently as intended according to the 1995 Ferrari F355 Challenge Regulations Manual... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I'm surprised you haven't been formally recognized for all the assistance you've provided over the years. Barry
@Qavion should be inducted in the f-chat hall of fame. Not only are his diagrams mega useful but they are incredibly easy to read, at least compared with some really cryptic diagrams I have seen among German manufacturers. Here is a big fat thank you to Ian for all your incredible work.
You're right, Ian. You're most humble as well as being most helpful. For a person like that, the "likes" and the "thanks, problem solved" you receive is recognition of the highest order. Barry
Hi Ian, Would you have a good link for the wiring diagram on a '96 5.2 (Euro), Berlinetta 6-spd? Currently dealing with 2 issues. The turn signals don't work (emergency flashers still do). The 15a fuse for these pops as soon as the ignition is turned on. The other issue is that the power mirrors are not working. The window/mirror defrost button also doesn't light. I believe those may be linked on this era 355 but the under hood and footwell fuses are all intact other than that 15a turn signal fuse. I recently had the gauge pod out to get it recovered, so I plan to start troubleshooting by taking that back off and making sure everything is still good in there. Long time lurker here, but I'm finally getting my feet wet with working on these cars. It's something I never thought I'd have the chance to do. Thanks for all of the help you generously provide the community. Michael
5.2 Euro turn signal wiring diagram here: https://www.dropbox.com/t/dtcQiYiJlJp4M2C7 So perhaps a short somewhere between the fuse and the stalk switch.
Mirrors here: https://www.dropbox.com/t/OeG2A2QIUR6bzczX Looks like the mirrors and defrost are on the same fuse (#25) as the indicator stalk switches/reverse lights. On some cars, depending on year (?), the cigarette lighter is on this fuse (and requires ignition power). That complicates things. The short could be in lots of places. Does your cigarette lighter work with the ignition either off or on? Do you currently have anything plugged into the lighter socket which may be shorting the fuse?
When the ignition has been turned on (previously) and the fuse blew, have you been in reverse gear? If not, you may be able to cross the reversing lights off your list (of possible causes). The only connection between fuse 25 and the gauge pod I see is the defrost light. I don't think it's easy to bend the pins on the gauge pod flat plugs, but check them anyway. Does the fuse blow with the gauge pod (right hand) plug disconnected? When installing the gauge pod, maybe they shorted out the wiring with the mounting screws?
I found that the gauge cluster wiring is fully intact and doesn't really fall near where the screws for the cluster go in. I unplugged the gauge cluster and tried the fuse just in case, but it still blew immediately on ignition position 1. The reverse lights are also inop, but the cig lighter works. After looking at these diagrams it looks as though all of these issues could easily be tied to the same thing. It will probably take someone better than me to chase the cause.
Cig lighter works only with ignition on. Thank you for the diagrams, by the way! I will probably need to bring a tech in on this and I'm sure they will be invaluable.
Weird. I thought the cig lighter was on the same fuse (on cars where ignition is required). Don't tell me there are 3 variations Unfortunately, I can't recheck my car at the moment. My tools are at my old apartment. Did you try, say, disconnecting the reversing lights (or did you run out of fuses)? Anyway, let us know how your tech goes. Hope he has a Ferrari SD1 tool to reset the airbag light (don't turn on the ignition with the instrument panel disconnected) Note that my links expire in 5~6 days.
I just confirmed that my lighter is on fuse 25 (along with the turn signals and reverse lights). My relay panel decal shows the lighter on another fuse which has battery power all the time (no key required), so the decal must be for a different year/country car. Did you try disconnecting the plug at the base of the steering column (for the light switches/wipers) to see if there was a short in the stalk switches? i.e. not the ignition plug with the thick wires.
Fuse still blows with the steering column unplugged. After looking at your diagrams with my (non-Ferrari) tech, he thought I should start by eliminating the reverse lights, seeing as the engine out was just performed. Maybe something snagged a wire to the back when that was done. What's your recommendation for ease of access to unplug those? Is splice 30032 easily accessible?
I could be mistaken on the 5.2 vs 2.7. This car has airbags, both airboxes come together before going into the intakes, but it has an abs cutoff button on the console and now the 2.7 fuse diagram/block. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looking at the missing relays and fuses on the panel and the additional starter relay on the side, you do have a 5.2. Ferrari don't tell you where their splices are, but I guess you could prove that the reversing wiring in the engine bay is causing the issue is by simply not engaging reverse and seeing if the fuse doesn't blow. Power doesn't go to the engine bay unless the reverse switch in the console is activated.
I'm not sure if any Euro cars with Bosch ABS were fitted with cutout switches. You may have a Teves ABS system which was fitted to Euro 2.7's and early 5.2's. However, it may be possible to add a cutout switch to the Bosch system. The cutout switch simply removes key power from the ECU.
I didn't need to look any further on the reverse lights because the car had been out of gear the entire time. Next, I unplugged the mirror controls and still shorting. The last thing it could be was the defrost. I don't know why, but to me that seemed the least likely cause from the outset. When I unhooked that and turned the ignition on - everything worked! Thank you for the help on this. Your diagrams are awesome. Now to finding out where the short is on the defrost line...
